Within my soul, within my mind, there lies a place I cannot find. Home of my heart. Land of my birth. Smoke-coloured stone and flame-coloured earth. Electric skies. Shivering heat. Blood-red clay beneath my feet.
Michelle Frost
Homeland
The background of the poem above is difficult to explain but it was written in response to a time of great uncertainty and turmoil and it speaks to the feelings of so many Rhodesians (now Zimbabwe) who lived through that time. I have borrowed certain stanzas as the words they contain come closest to capturing the “heart and soul” of what many visitors feel upon visiting Africa for the first or even the twentieth time. It’s the reason why so many fall in love with her, why so many keep going back and why I will never leave her shores.
A safari, when taken at face value – especially to someone who has little or no interest in wildlife – can seem a tad straightforward. One drives around in a Land Rover over bumpy roads looking for/at wild animals. But this oversimplified description doesn’t even come close to scratching the surface of the experience. Anyone who has taken the leap and embarked on their first safari adventure will attest to the fact that it’s something that’s so difficult to describe to someone who has never done it.
“At night when finally alone, I close my eyes – and I am home. I kneel and touch the blood-warm sand, and feel the pulse beneath my hand. Of an ancient life too old to name, in an ancient land too wild to tame. – Michelle Frost”
Earlier this month I guided two guests who travel the world in search of something they call a champagne moment. This was a first for me but I knew what they meant. They weren’t interested in finding a leopard or a lion. They were after something that could disappear like smoke in the breeze and then reappear moments later. Breathe too deeply or try to grab hold of it and it would slip away.
They were after a feeling.
We were in search of something intangible but luckily for us these ‘champagne moments’ are so embedded in the roots of safari that we found not just one, but a few.
The first moment happened on our first afternoon drive. With our backs against the canvas Land Rover seats we sat in the knee-high grasslands of the south-western corner of Londolozi sipping on a chilled glass of Dom Perignon in front of a golden vista. The cicadas thrummed, a herd of zebras tore at the grass behind us and several hundred buffalo casually moved across our field of view. As darkness enveloped the wilderness around us, 400 pairs of hooves hooves thumped the ground with quickening pace as they all plowed into a nearby waterhole to quench their thirst. It was as surreal as surreal can get.
A few days later we’d parked the Land Rovers atop a grassy crest with a commanding view of our surroundings. To our north and east the Marula trees that dotted our vantage point angled downhill towards the Sand River. To our west we had an unobstructed view of the sun sinking through a breathtaking mountainous and cloudy tapestry. Around us grazed a herd of zebra and a herd of impala while three wildebeest bulls proclaimed their territories loudly. As our evening wore on, we sat beneath a star-studded sky, riveted to our chairs as tracker Sersant regaled us with an animated and dramatic story about a wildebeest bull that fell victim to a lioness in open ground. And as so often happens at Londolozi, the minute you think it can’t get any better, it usually does.
Two spotted hyenas, closely followed by two elephant bulls came towards our sundowner spot and casually fed on the fruit of a nearby Marula tree. With story time over, Mother Nature invited us to once again sit quietly and listen, to the magic happening around us.
How can I show you what I feel? How can I make this essence real? I search for words in dumb frustration. To try and form some explanation. But how can heart and soul be caught, in one-dimensional written thought?
I beg the forgiveness of Michelle Frost and any other Rhodesians should they ever read this blog for I have taken her words out of context and used them to try to describe the profound, soulful and spiritual fulfilment that a moment in the bush can give you. And for trying to explain why so many Londolozi guests depart for home with a full spiritual suitcase and a fervent connection to the continent of Africa.
Paul, Africa is in my heart, my blood. I will never leave it. It is magical to spend time in the bush. I can not imagine what it will be like not to experience the sunrises, sunsets. The people. The sounds and smells. The animals. Everyday in Africa is a Champange moment.
Paul, absolutely wonderful. “Champagne moment” describes Londolozi well. I had one such moment as I stood on the deck at Londolozi and watched in the far distance a lone giraffe strolling right to left, silhouetted against the sky. I told guide Jessie, “My mind tells me I’m home.” “No,” she said, “Your heart tells you that.” Indeed. Africa. Home to us all. Nkosi Sikelel’iAfrika.
It is indeed home to us all! Thank you for sharing Dave!
So beautifully and succinctly articulated Paul. There are many champagne moments in the bush, however we are not always ready to see and feel them! Thank you for sharing these special moments with us! Africa is in my soul!
Thank you Karin! If we can protect her and her wildlife, Africa will be around for many generations to come!
I could not have said it better myself! Excellent post, Paul!
Thank you Darlene!
I completely understand this feeling. I too, left my trip to Africa and safaris with an overflowing spiritual suitcase. A little over a year later, when I need to calm my life – I take out that suitcase and my memory touches and feels and remembers
the things that found a home in my heart and soul. That’s my happy place, that’s where I find my balance. I am forever grateful for the month of my life spent not just ‘looking for/at the animals.
This is a beautiful post, Paul. I felt as though I was back in the bush. The poetry was also moving! Thank you.
Just the photo of the Land Rover brought back many cherished memories of my time in Landolozi. I tried to copy and print it, but it wouldn’t take. (Sigh).
My first safari was to Kenya in 1986, and whilst I have very few photos from that trip, I have so much more…… memories, adventures, and the “return to Africa “ disease. Yes, I believe once you’ve experienced time in the wild, whether gazing at or photographing animals, sitting/standing quietly at a sundowner savoring the final rays of the sun, one is forever changed. The feelings are difficult to explain to others- a safari is something to be experienced in first person. How can the smell of the bush at 5:00am be put into words?! I understand champagne moments and fortunately have enjoyed many, most have which have occurred throughout Southern Africa.
Keep up the great work and special moments you provide to guests.
Thank you for sharing Denise!
Could not agree more. I am not a religious person, but when I visited Londolozi for the first time last April, I felt like I saw God. I hope to return many, many times over the course of my life. It was life changing.
Thank you for commenting Chelsea! The amazing thing is that if you tap into the energy, it’ll happen again and again.
Lovely blog. Wishing everyone a full Londolozi suitcase.
“Champagne Moments”==unparalleled experiences. So hard to describe to those who have not experienced the moments of insignificance.
So eloquently stated. You did bring us into that state of magical being and created the desire for more 🙂 Thank you!
You are most welcome Johanna!