Londolozi has many sacred sights.
There is a place on Londolozi that seldom sees the tread of a human foot and most definitely has never seen the tread of a tyre; a hidden jewel, a place of special beauty amidst a plethora of natural splendour, my favourite place on Londolozi.
Part of the allure lies in its inaccessibility; one can only access the area by getting off of the car and walking along a long and winding trail, through a grove of wild date palms where vigilance levels need to be high – and emerging into a wilderness cathedral of beauty.
Guides and trackers take precautions by assessing the area before taking making their way along this trail. Shielded by a wall of wild date palms and roofed by towering Matumi trees is a network of rivulets that weave around several small islands, the only way of reaching which is by taking off your shoes in order to navigate the shallow waterways.
Shoes may have to be abandoned.
This simple necessary act, the removal of your shoes, is one of the things that make this place so special. The reconnection with the earth is experienced in feeling the coarse white sand crunch beneath tender feet and the liberation of the soul in feeling the cool water rush between toes and swirl around ankles. The return to childhood as you balance on rocks worn smooth by the perennial river and hop onto the softly yielding grassy bank, all felt through the soles of your feet, has a powerful effect on anybody who is open to the idea.
Londolozi Guests Joe and George navigate their way through the area.
From the central island, you are surrounded at head height by a messy confusion of natural debris, the flood line of the Sand River. This tangled marker is renewed and added to each year by the summer rains when this particular spot is absolutely inaccessible (unless by the most determined scuba diver).
During this time the dross of winter, collected from upriver by the rising water levels collects against the thick network of Matumi pillars as they brace against the onslaught of the rushing water. What is left behind is a somewhat more chaotic element of beauty, a juxtaposition to the pure serenity of the place, a reminder of recent turbulence. I like to think that it is a reminder that everything and everybody has tumultuous times, and that they too will pass, and that even the scars that remain can be beautiful given time.
The flood line serves to remind us of a more turbulent time.
Above the flood line, nestled in the fork of a tree is a massive Hamerkop nest, utterly ridiculous in its proportions when you see the little creature that built and inhabits it. Various tracks criss-cross the area, the most exciting of which is definitely the Cape clawless otter, an animal I am still waiting to see cavorting on the bank as we emerge into the clearing. Littering the banks are shells of freshwater crabs and mussels, both of which make up the diet of the Otter and Hamerkop.
Small fish creep along the edges of the river, careful not to stray too far into the current, while above mayflies drift lazily through dusty columns of sunlight filtering from the canopy above. Dragonflies zip madly through these same columns as if to chastise the mayflies for their laziness while in the background a nyala ewe stares intently back at us, confident enough with the river between us to not bolt but unwilling to completely ignore our foreign presence.
The Hamerkop nest dominating the forking Matumi.
Simply being in a place of such deep beauty and tranquillity cannot fail to have a profound effect on anybody who is willing to experience it. I’ve not walked with anybody through this place that hasn’t been awed by its splendour and even writing this has me excited to go back and explore it further.
The canopy of matumi trees arches overhead.
It is just one of a myriad number of incredible places in the paradise we call Londolozi. Where is your favourite place?
Poetic.
So beautifully written Kyle. I could visualise, even without the photos, the serenity and wonder of this almost sacred place. Londolozi has many special places.
I have never heard of a hamerkop and had to reach out to Google. It looks like a cross between our spoonbill and our heron. I’m amazed that for a medium sized bird it builds a nest up to 2 metres wide that can take the weight of a man! Extraordinary! Why? Why does it need such a large and strong nest?
Thanks Jennifer, it is such a special place for me. And yes, Hamerkops are exceptionally strange birds – actually the only species of bird in their genus! The nest is used year in and year out and so must remain quite sturdy; they build onto it constantly and it just gains in structural stability each year. Really, it is a bit overkill but definitely an effective safe place to raise chicks!
Anywhere with trees, a large pond, stream or river, and birds is a favorite of mine. This sounds heavenly.
Exactly. Just the babble of a flowing stream can have such a calming effect on anyone who takes a second to listen.
Kyle, Thanks for the introduction to this special place! It sounds wonderful. We will definitely plan to experience it ourselves on our next visit!
Hi Michael and Terri, I am so glad you are keen to see it. You will love it!
Kyle, thanks for sharing one of Londolozi’s secrets . We all have those special places where we can go to reconnect.
Thanks you for reading, William. I am glad you enjoyed it.
Thank you*
Kyle it is so beautiful and just by looking at that beauty you get the sense of absolute peace and quiet. Nor wander you say this is your favorite place. We have just moved to Kranspoort and here are antelope, Zebra guinea fowls, wildebeest, giraffe, bushpigs and many different species of birds. It is so quiet here and all you want to do is sit on your veranda and wait for the Kudu’s or the Inyala or Impala’s to come and eat there lusern and pellets. Very calming affect these animals have on a person.
Thank you Valmai, I am glad you enjoyed the read. Your new place sounds beautiful! Nature in any form is so good for the soul.
Loved your beautiful description of this magical place. Makes me want to go there immediately.
Thanks Celeste, hopefully we’ll see you soon!
Well written Kyle- a tranquil location.
I love spending time on the spillway watching the various species which “hang out” there!
Thanks Vin. The causeway is a great spot to just sit and watch the world go by. Always something exciting happening there!
Another spellbinding description by one of Londolozi’s best scribes. You truly have a gift for writing and you found a beautiful model for those last two shots! I wouldn’t be able to make that journey with you (balance issues) but perhaps you could show it to my better half soon!
Bob, you are too kind, sir! Thank you for reading and I will be sure to tell Harleigh too. Prof and I would definitely be keen to take Lucie for a stroll into that area at some point, I think she’d love it. We’re all looking forward to seeing you two soon!
Tell H to start thinking about a day she can go out with us!
This would certainly be one of my favorite places in Londolozi if a guide took me there. I once had the pleasure of having a picknick on a spot on the river which was also very beautiful. And another favorite spot for me is the terrace of Tree House where you seem to be sitting right in the middle of all those palm trees and shrubs and the elephants walk past you. Great Place!
That sounds very special Christa. The place I am referring to is very near to where you would have been actually! There are a lot of very special places here.
Kyle, your eloquence with words describing this special place is so intoxicating, almost inviting us to come discover for ourselves. The photos are beautiful and really tell your story about the uniqueness of this hidden gem.
During my stay there last year, my special place was in a part of the Manyelethi riverbed, where we enjoyed a jaffle brunch, a little haven in the bush.
Closer to home , there’s a special place in a regional park a few miles away, where the trail follows and crosses a little creek at times – when we’ve had rain. There is a place in a clearing where you’re surrounded by the mountains, a craggy bluff where the peregrine falcons nest, and and there’s always a soft breeze. If we take the time to look, there’s always a special place that can be found.
Thank you, Denise. Maybe next time, you will take a walk around the area and see it for yourself! But there are also few things better than a jaffle in the bush. Your more local special place sounds magical, you definitely need to have these places to get away from the business of the world these days.
The lookout above the bend in the Manyeleti River and standing in the middle of the Sand River in front of Taylor’s house on a winter’s morning.
Al, that sounds about right, the river steaming in the frosty morning air backlit by the rising sun. Gorgeous.
So very beautiful….what a great place to explore!