Life has been a bit different during lockdown for us rangers.
Normally we have a vehicle with up to six guests and a tracker on the front. At the moment though, we head out alone most often, usually in an attempt to spread out across the reserve and find more wildlife. This was the case one morning this August.
06:00 – Morning Drive
My plan was to head along the river to check if any leopards were sunning themselves on the large granite boulders, or possibly find tracks of the Ntsevu pride returning from across the Sand River.
Sean Zeederberg called in tracks of a pride of lions heading in my general direction, which added to the excitement. While off my vehicle checking on some tracks in the road, the sound of impalas alarming frantically across the river caught my attention. I quickly drove ahead and lifted my binoculars. The impalas were all staring into the middle of their own herd. A leopard suddenly stood up with tail raised, walking out from an unsuccessful hunt. With no way of getting closer, I stood on the seat of the vehicle and enjoyed the long-distance view.
Based on territory, it was most likely the Nkoveni female that had missed an impala that morning. She walked away in full view of the impala, knowing that her chances of catching one after being spotted were next to nothing.
Back to the lion tracking...
Sean had heard a lion calling somewhere close to the eastern edge of Londolozi. I headed along the cutline road separating us from Mala Mala to check for any tracks. While stopped on a crest, my heart dropped as I saw fresh tracks of a whole pride exiting our traversing area. Hope was not lost though, as the booming roars of a lion reverberated through my body while I was investigating the tracks.
There is nothing quite as moving as experiencing a lion’s roar in person. One’s whole body vibrates, filled with the deep, long-frequency sound waves.
It was close. Somewhere just down the hill. Sean and I converged along the cutline and stood on our respective vehicles scanning around. After about 20 minutes, as I was about to head elsewhere, a lioness suddenly stood up right under our noses and walked away out of view. We laughed at our inability to spot her earlier!
Sean Zeederberg looks into the bushes, hoping the lion will make an appearance. Funnily enough, it was about 15 metres in front of where he is parked. We just couldn’t see it hidden in the long grass!
My morning adventure took me right down into the southern reaches of the reserve. I was perplexed by leopard tracks going back and forth over themselves, next to a set of wild dog tracks. With few vehicles driving around, it is rather difficult to age the evidence we find.
On my way home, several dazzles of zebra and a great journey of giraffe with six young calves were a beautiful sight. Not to mention a massive bull rhino completely submerged in a mud wallow!
15:00 – Afternoon Drive
Monkeys alarm calling opposite the camps set our direction. The Sand River is a maze of thickets, trees and sand banks that provide ample habitat for leopards to move about without being seen. With this in mind, I did not have much confidence of finding whatever the monkeys had seen, but it’s always worth a check!
We were rewarded this time however, as we found the Flat Rock male leopard in the middle channel, looking exceedingly full. Our view did not last long as he soon slunk off into the palm thickets, inaccessible by vehicle. Our short view did not dampen our excitement levels though.
A dominant male leopard over the majority of the north. He originally took over the 4:4 Male's territory when he died.
Off we set along the Sand River again. Vultures descending caught the attention of the Tracker Academy in the clearings ahead of us. We swiftly headed into the vicinity to see if anything was around. About 30 vultures perched on a dead tree were a clear sign that a carcass was nearby.
A full tree of vultures is often a clear sign that there is something that has died nearby.
I had been past that area in the morning and there was not one vulture. It didn’t take long to spot a lioness with a bloodied face emerge from under a small bush. Our timing was perfect as we had her stroll past us three times before she disappeared down into the Sand River.
Upon closer inspection we found the remains of an impala that she had been eating. The vultures were left to finish off the scraps. Another short but phenomenal experience!
A leisurely drive home after a fulfilling day was topped off by a quintessential African scene – a deep red sky as the sun dipped to the horizon.
An African sunset – a deeply satisfying scene.
“Nothing but breathing the air of Africa, and actually walking through it, can communicate the indescribable sensations.” William Burchell
Hello Pete, I once heard male lions roaring close it’s almost unbearable for the ears but what a sound! You can hear who’s the king… a magical journey through wildlife with beautiful leopards and impala zebra giraffe…and the rhino. It’s always a pleasure to see how confident they are, a rare thing nowadays. They can stay in peace in Londolozi.
Pete, I loved all the photos, especially the rhino🤗
A wonderful start to the week. Lions roaring always make you think they are coming to dinner. Can’ ever see too many leopards and giraffes are always a favorite. thank you Victoria
I have heard lions brawling and fighting right next to me…..but I have never had lions roaring territorially right next to me! Hopefully, one day in the future on a safari, I will get that opportunity!
Territorial roars l think are best audible/done during the evenings or early mornings when the timing/conditions are favourable for that mass advertising of strength/presence
All that excitement in a day of a ranger …. amazing experience to be going along with you. Thanks Peter and to you all … my wildlife experience in the U.K. today was catching a horsefly before it could bite me. Very satisfying!
Hi Linda!
I’m relieved to hear you saved yourself before the horsefly got the better of you… Thanks for the comments.
Oh for a day on Safari…..! Your blog clicked my memory of driving back to camp after a sultry sundowner when we heard the first roar, then the second lion joined followed by the third. Driving a bit further we came upon the trio, posed in a triangle , each seeming to outdo the others with their sound intensity. Parked just a few meters away, we sat mesmerized, the Landy vibrating as we experienced this concert in the dark. I recorded the sound but it no way was the same intensity. I’m looking forward to more “goosebumps “ moments on my next trip in addition to all the other amazing things to view.
Pete, this piece is so beautifully written. I was right there with you, all day. Thank you.
Burchell is right: Nothing can be compared to being in the African bush with its smells and sounds and sights.
Beautiful pictures, Pete
The perfect day!
We were once lucky enough to be surrounded by 3 Majingilane males roaring together in the dark – an experience we will never forget! The quote at the end, Pete – is that who the Burchell’s zebra and starling are named after?
Hi Suzanne,
Indeed it is the same Mr Burchell.
You are so right, Pete! That sound goes right through your body! We love listening to lions roar! Then when you hear a response, wow!!!
Love the pic of the muddy Rhino! You are so lucky, can I come and jump in the vehicle with you?!
Wow Pete ..all in one day!…. thankyou for such lovely sightings….. always look forward to the wonderful informative wildlife reports from you guys….keep safe….
Thank you Pete for this wonderful account of “A Single Day on Safari in August,” and it happens to be my birthday!! What a treat!!
We hope you had a very happy birthday, Paul!
Thank you, it was lovely!!
Mr. Burchell was spot on! Thank you, Pete!
What a perfect day Pete!! Would give anything to enjoy a day like that right now. In fact would b happy even without the roaring lion and fab sightings. Just the expanse of Africa around me would b just fine🙏💕
Pete… you seriously have a magnificent job! You paint such vivid pictures with your words.I adore the photo of the sunset! Hope you’re having a fantastic week so far!
Lovely blog Pete. Love the quote. Africa is undescribable. You’ve got to experience it for yourself. Nothing compare.
Hi Pete. Lovely pic of the Giraffe and Water Buck and Impala. However, I took the sunset pic with the Marula tree. Love silhouettes! Thank you. Keep them coming! Wendy M
Hi Wendy,
I’m glad you enjoyed the shots. Did you capture a similar sunset shot too?
The interaction of various specie to one zone exhibits the symbiotic liasons that exist btwn the animals as they dont clash resoure wise seeing they have constrasting dietary preferences.As such all defence senses are rolled into one common purpose this boosts their safety and ability to spook carnivores or any threats
Awesome rhino bull image whc has a 1000 messages
Giraffe when feeding l have observed that ,female prefer more open savanna whereas males will usually forage deeper into the thickets ,l reckon this is a resource partition skill so that the sexes dont clash.Males heads are also able to tilt upwards at more angles than females this aids their reach onto food.
Impala , waterbuck,wildbeest and zebra seamlessly cohabit bcz they have constrasting feeding patterns.zebra muzzle built for cropping upper coarse grass , Wildbeest muzzle typically with other ruminants is adapted for lower grass.waterbuck as well dont clash with their prefered hangout friends.As such they combine defence senses.Dentition wise as well the species have different teeth types.Diastema lacks in zebra since they aint ruminants but wildbeest do have a diastema.
Zebra pic is trully lovely.I have observed that zebra as a result of feeding on upper coarse grass which has very high degrees of seeds makes them to seemingly sneeze a lot while feeding.Personally l feel or must l say suspect the pollen from seeds makes them sneeze.
Rhino bull immensely covered in mud was so unique but beautifully enthralling.A lot is learnt from the image in that thermoregulation , ridding self of ectoparasites all are exhibited by the rhino in that image
African bush has its own signature atmosphere that trully gives a different sound,smell,vibe which defines AFRICA