A recent goal of mine has been to improve my tracking, and there is simply no better person to learn from than my companion and tracker, Ray Mabilane. Blessed with a rare morning off without guests, I thought I would grab this opportunity with both hands and work on my tracking. With very little convincing needed, Ray and I came up with a plan to head out together, bumble around and see if we could find any fresh tracks to practice my trailing skills, and if all else failed – Ray would test my knowledge on smaller mammal and bird tracks. With the goal of myself tracking, and when I invariably lost the tracks Ray would step in and hone his skills.
Ironically, when we Rangers do have a guest-free morning, rather than a sleep-in – we often relish the opportunity to venture into the wilderness. Pursuing what drives us, and more often than not allows us to reconnect with the very essence of our passion for the bush.
After a quick cup of coffee in the Rangers’ room, as the sun peeped above the horizon, we headed out to the causeway. Heading up to the northeast corner of the reserve, there is a long and straight road with soft granite-based soil (perfect for tracking). A road notoriously favoured by trackers, yet feared by the Tracking Academy students (and myself today!). Fast-paced tapping on the front of the vehicle, and a tracker leaning forward to get a closer view could only mean one thing. Leopard tracks!
Fresh evidence of a leopard that has just walked down the road early one morning. Leopards will often use roads as pathways upon which they demarcate their territory through scent marking and scraping of their hind feet. Follow the footprints for long enough and they will come to an end – where the leopard lies.
Heart racing with anticipation, we followed the tracks no more than 100m down the road – listening carefully as we went. I have been incredibly lucky to have many unique moments and memories I’ll cherish – but tracking a leopard with a close friend, the birds announcing their morning chorus, the sun warming your back, not another soul in sight, you look ahead and down the road walks a male leopard oblivious to our presence, that’s one that will stick with me forever.
Ray and I shared a short high-five, fetched the vehicle and followed the Tortise Pan Male – completely alone. I have no doubt that Ray has seen more than a thousand leopards, myself in the hundreds, yet what happened that morning was special. The power of silence. Two friends quietly in awe, appreciating and reflecting. In the presence of such raw beauty, words seemed inadequate, and we sat in reverent silence, lost in the wonder of the wilderness and our own thoughts.
Born in 2016, this male spent his early years in the south-east of Londolozi, but began moving further afield in late 2019.
Buoyed by our encounter, we continued on with the plan of finding something else to follow, and perhaps test our abilities more. In the same manner as before, and not too long after seeing the leopard, Ray stopped us for tracks of rhino that looked fresh. Climbing out of the vehicle, we started to follow. They cut off the road, and tracking became more difficult, following tracks of at least three rhinos meandering through the long grass, feeding as they went.
Through thorn and thicket, grass and sand we tracked, learning as we went. What paths were they choosing? What grass did they prefer? Which rhino did all the other tracks come back to join? The excitement built as we followed them to a mud wallow – seeing the imprints of where they lay, and fresh wet mud left on the grass as they left. When I lost the track, Ray was there to point me back in the right direction.
And then, after more than two hours and four kilometres of tracking, our perseverance was rewarded! In a secluded clearing along the sand river, their massive forms silhouetted against the dappled sun in the east. Breaking out of the trace of following the path – it was a moment of pure magic and one that will be imprinted in my mind for years to come.
Keagan and Ray’s guests enjoy a fantastic view of the Ntomi Male.
As the morning sun climbed higher in the sky, Ray and I reluctantly turned back towards camp, our hearts full and our spirits high. At Londolozi, moments like these are not just rare occurrences; they are the essence of what makes this place so special. Through the shared bond of our love for nature, rangers and trackers come together to protect and preserve the wild spaces we hold dear. It’s a privilege and a responsibility we carry with pride, knowing that each day spent in the bush brings us closer to a future where humans and wildlife can thrive together in harmony.
It is a privilege I am incredibly grateful for.
Hi Keagan what a wonderful blog and wonderful story. This is what makes us as guests always return to Londolozi. I cant wait for our 12th visit on 21st of May (Tree Camp as usual) and I do hope to see you and Ray and hopefully have a supper together no matter which ranger is assigned too us. Regards JR and Jane
Ray is one of best trackers and people I have ever met.
Keagan, Thanks for a special story about your relationship with Ray. It’s clear that there is mutual respect and a passion for the wild! Thanks also for sharing the great images.
It’s wonderful if one is with together with a splendid team of tracker and guide as a guest. Admirably how trackers always find these animals and how the guides maneuvers the heavy cars through bush, into drains and to the animals. Just amazing!
I always find following the tracking process really exciting, even though I’m not actively involved! When I came last November, I bought “Changing a leopard’s spots – the adventures of 2 wildlife trackers” from the shop. I will definitely read it before I come back later this year.
I’m thrilled to hear Tortoise Pan is still seen in Londoz sometimes – I’d love to see him again, having followed him from a tiny cub.
Keagen, what a wonderful story you shared today. Tracking and viewing are truly the essence of Londolozi.
Hi, I’m over the hills to see such a superb leopard coming from the Royal Family, the Ndzanzeni female has always been a real beauty and a special leopard. The Inyathini male also left so many memories and dna after him. I’m glad that the Royal Family is not lost, although not so flourishing as the Sunset Bend female line. It is rare to read of an encounter with a rhino, I can only imagine the feeling! I think he’s right, insects, birds and small animals are so very intriguing and there’s yet much to be discovered
What a terrific way to spend your free day, tracking with your good mate Ray, whilst honing your skills. Additionally, you were rewarded with amazing sightings of the rhinos and Tortoise Pan male. I had to laugh as the photo you included of Tortoise Pan is very similar to one I shot in 2018. He was lying next to a small pan, head resting on the dried mud, showing us that same bored gaze.
Anyway, I completely agree with your last paragraph as the bonds between each team of guides/trackers is than of mutual respect and trust in each other as well as the property.
What a great experience both of you had on that morning tracking animals. So good of Ray to show you where you lost the tracks, to carry on and find the animals. Both of you, best friends and partners. Well done both of you.
On safari with you and Ray in September 2022 will always stay in my mind and heart. Sighting a Leopard Tortoise and a Dung Beetle on a morning drive, was ‘nearly’ as exhilarating as the many Leopard found over the couple of days.
I have had some incredible sightings with Ray (I am sure he will remember the 2 days with the Ingrid Dam female and her new cub when there was an encounter with the Ingrid Dam young female (newly independent at the time). However, I was witness to one of the most ridiculous spots – certainly the best in all of my drives at Londolozi). We were driving at a decent pace heading south on the track to the east of the Manyeleti. We were done with our drive and heading to a bush dinner so we weren’t really looking for anything as we were moving quickly. Ray’s hand went up. Looking down the bank towards the riverbed and into a dusty setting sun, Ray said he thought there was a leopard on a termite mound an easy several hundred meters away. We turned off of the track and on the far side of the termite mound was the Nanga young female (now Makomsava) lying down. Ray had only seen the tip of her ears poking above the termite mound!! I have a photo of that sighting on my wall and always remember that drive and Ray fondly.
Terrific, touching story Keagan, and some really wonderful images!
Glad you two are still laughing and learning together! You both certainly made our time there special! Cheers from Lisa, Mat, Kathy and Pat
Bravo! Harmony between humans and animals. Well done.
Great to see this post about you and Ray! We miss you! And in case you want to see it, here is my newest TEDx talk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMrw7dig-8A