There are certain places at Londolozi that seem to collect stories. Ximpalapala Koppie is one of them.
Rising from the surrounding landscape in a series of enormous granite boulders, the koppie has an almost magnetic quality. It catches the morning light, holds the warmth of the afternoon sun and, perhaps most importantly, provides a vantage point from which the surrounding wilderness can be surveyed. Over the years it has become a familiar landmark to us, but every now and then it reveals another layer to its story. On two separate occasions recently, I found myself sitting beneath these granite boulders, watching two very different leopards use the same landscape in very different ways.
The first was the Hlambela Male.
Personally, this could have been one of my greatest leopard sightings to date. The Hlambela Male was lying on the granite boulders of Ximpalapala Koppie in the soft glow of the afternoon sunlight.
An impressive male, appearing as a rising force in the north. Making a name for himself by pushing other males out.
It was one of those afternoons when everything seemed to be working in favour of photography. The sun was beginning its slow descent towards the horizon, casting that rich, warm light across the landscape that photographers spend hours hoping for. And there he was, stretched across the granite boulders of Ximpalapala Koppie. The afternoon light caught every detail of his coat. His rosettes seemed to deepen in colour, his whiskers stood out against the stone and, for a while, he simply lay there, completely at ease.
There is something different about watching an established male leopard. They carry themselves with a certain confidence, much of which comes from the fact that their lives are largely dictated by territory. A male’s world is a constantly shifting map of scent, boundaries and neighbouring males. He needs to know what is happening within his territory and, perhaps even more importantly, who else is moving through it.
The raised elevation of the boulders gives leopards a great vantage point from which to survey their surroundings. Shortly after this picture was taken, he stretched his limbs and began rasping, sending out a clear message.
The Hlambela Male has increasingly established himself in this northern section of Londolozi, and his presence is often announced before he is seen. The unmistakable rasping call of a male leopard travelling through the night or early morning is one of those sounds that immediately changes the atmosphere of a game drive. Rasping is not simply a call into the darkness. It is part of the conversation between territorial males, a way of advertising presence and reinforcing ownership. Add scent marking and regular patrols to the equation and the landscape becomes a network of invisible boundaries that we can only begin to understand.
And this is where the story becomes particularly interesting. The Hlambela Male is widely suspected to be the father of the Xinzele Female’s recent litter. We cannot know this with absolute certainty, of course, but the overlap between their territories and his established presence around Ximpalapala Koppie make him the most likely candidate.
A day later, I found myself back at the same koppie, this time with a very different leopard.
The tail of the Xinzele Female as she crept elegantly between the thick brush and the granite boulders, searching and investigating the cracks and crevices for a potential den site.
A stunning female found in the north. Successfully raised the Thumbela Female while establishing dominance in NW Marthly.
The Xinzele Female was moving through the granite boulders, purposeful in every step. Unlike the relaxed male I had watched the day before, she appeared to have a job to do. She paused frequently to scent mark, investigating cracks, crevices and various points around the koppie before continuing on. At times she would disappear between the boulders, only to emerge moments later and continue her careful inspection. Watching her, I was reminded that when we see a leopard moving through a landscape, there is almost always more happening than meets the eye.
For the Xinzele Female, Ximpalapala Koppie offers a remarkable combination of advantages. The granite boulders create numerous deep cracks and sheltered recesses that provide protection from the elements and, importantly, concealment from potential threats. The elevated position allows her to survey the surrounding area, while the rocky terrain provides numerous escape routes should she ever need them. For a mother with a young litter, these qualities become even more valuable. Her behaviour suggested she was actively assessing the area, searching among the boulders and repeatedly returning to particular sections. To me it felt less like a leopard simply moving through her territory and more like an animal carefully evaluating a nursery.
And perhaps that is what makes Ximpalapala Koppie so fascinating. The same rocks that gave the Hlambela Male a magnificent afternoon throne may now be giving the Xinzele Female something far more important: security for the next generation.
It is difficult to see in this photograph, but if you look closely, you can make out a prominent milk pouch in front of her hind legs, a clear sign that she is producing milk for young. Very exciting news!
Standing there, watching her scent mark and weave between the boulders, I found myself wondering how many times these same rocks have witnessed the beginning of leopard stories. How many cubs have been hidden in these crevices? How many territorial disputes have played out around their edges? How many generations of leopards have used this koppie as a lookout, a resting place or a refuge? We often think of territory as something belonging to an animal, but perhaps it is equally true that animals become part of the story of a place.
The Hlambela Male and Xinzele Female may be separated by their roles within the leopard world, yet both are now intimately connected to Ximpalapala Koppie. One announcing his presence and reinforcing his claim, the other quietly preparing for what may be one of the most important chapters of her life. And somewhere amongst those ancient granite boulders, out of sight and carefully protected, another story may already be unfolding.
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