Today’s blog is going to take you through an afternoon permanently etched in my memory, culminating in a sighting many dream of—a spectacular first for me.
Learning to adapt swiftly in the bush is a skill I’ve acquired, as plans can change in the blink of an eye. On the last afternoon of my recent work cycle, my guests and I were eager to try and see the Three Rivers Female, who had made a recent kill stored in the safety of a Jackalberry tree along the Maxabeni Riverbed. Plans, fortunately, and unfortunately, took an unexpected turn, and we never made it to her.
Keagan managed to get down to where the Three Rivers Female was and luckily for him, he snapped some great shots. Our afternoon had different plans in store for us.
Forced into early independence at 11 months. Despite her small size, she's proven resilient, currently raising a cub in SE Londolozi.
As we left camp, we headed towards an open clearing with a sizable watering hole, the perfect spot for a gathering of elephants seeking relief from the heat of the day. About 15 elephants, varying in ages, joyously wallowed in the mud, playfully spraying water to beat the heat. In light of our initial plan, we departed, giving the elephants their space. Tracker Life Sibuyi astoundingly spotted a rhinoceros engaging in similar thermoregulatory behaviour in a small mud wallow about 300 metres away.
After the phenomenal sightings of elephants and male rhino, we attempted to reach the Maxabeni but were happily interrupted by a large herd of buffalo, about 400 meters away. They too were busy making their way to the nearest water hole for a drink and mud wallow.
Fellow ranger Jess Shillaw called in tracks of a single lioness nearby. Alerting us to the possibility of her being close by. Life’s ears pricked up and he started to scan every patch of shade surrounding us. In a matter of moments, Life’s sharp eyes spotted her about 100 meters away from the buffalo, watching the approaching herd with intent. It was a single lioness from the Ntsevu Pride.
Now let’s take a moment to pause here, within 1km from camp and less than an hour into the game drive, we had already seen four of the Big Five. Something that we had achieved without actively seeking out each sighting. We had just happened upon all of them.
After sitting with the lioness for about 20 minutes, the most amazing sighting unfolded. One that I, along with many others in the Ranging team have dreamt of for a long time. In the heat of the day, instead of resting in the shade, the lioness got up and trotted in the opposite direction to the buffalo herd.
Doing our best to follow her through the relatively thick vegetation, in the distance, something moved swiftly across the path. Life shouted with excitement, “Leopard dragging a kill!” It was the Plaque Rock Female, moments after killing a young Impala Ram. It was this that had caught the lioness’s attention. What followed was a mesmerizing encounter between the lioness and the leopard.
The lioness stopped momentarily just as she was approaching the leopard.
The Plaque Rock Female remained blissfully unaware of the lurking lioness nearby. Halting her progress, she surveyed her surroundings, unknowingly becoming the focal point of the unfolding drama. In an electrifying moment, the lioness seized the opportunity and charged in at the leopard with the impala. The sudden commotion startled the leopard, prompting a hasty retreat. Seeking refuge, as leopards instinctively do, she darted towards the nearest tree. Fortunately for us, it happened to be the perfect dead Leadwood—its sturdy branches offering both safety and a vantage point. With remarkable agility, she ascended the tree, showcasing the nimble prowess that sets leopards apart as supreme climbers, especially in contrast to their less agile lion counterparts.
A pretty young playful female found along the river to the east of camp
Having surrendered her carcass, the Plaque Rock Female settled in the branches of this magnificent dead leadwood.
What makes the image of a leopard in a dead Leadwood tree so captivating?
For me, it’s the striking interplay between the rich, exquisite beauty of the leopard’s coat set against the backdrop of the monochromatic hues of the tree and its intricate textures. This unique combination creates a visual spectacle enriched with detail and beauty.
Curious to explore this further, I turned to Life, whose keen instincts played a pivotal role in the afternoon’s events. His perspective proved to be enlightening. In Shangaan culture, this juxtaposition takes on added significance—a leopard symbolizes wealth and beauty, while a Leadwood tree embodies life. The belief is rooted in the notion that these majestic trees, enduring long after death, house the spirits of ancestors. Thus, witnessing a leopard in the embrace of a dead Leadwood becomes a symbolic dance of life, beauty, and ancestral presence—a truly profound moment in the heart of the wild.
While the afternoon unfolded spectacularly, there was a small downside— I had not taken my camera on that particular drive and I know it is not always about the photos that one takes but I really wish that I had been able to at least capture some photos to help portray just amazing the sighting was. Fortunately, Jess Shillaw captured a few images and above all that we ended up seeing the Big Five in one afternoon, all within 1km from camp and all of them within 400m of each other, the afternoon could not have worked out more perfectly.
Beautiful images – amplified by great prose. Thank you for bringing The Bush to life so vividly.
Wow, I held my breath while reading, I feared for the leopard! The Three River female is so beautiful. Furthermore she descends from the royal line. I eagerly wait for news about her cubs. Wonderful pictures of elephants and buffalo! Lovely blog to open the year
Sounds like a magnificent game drive to me! I can imagine the joy and contentment of wallowing elephants is quite contagious. There truly is something so special about seeing a leopard in a dead leadwood tree. I hope to see one the next time we visit, but for now, I’ll forever enjoy all the beautiful photos by others lucky enough to be present.
What a great afternoon, for you and your guests!
I love all the photos of this article, especially the elephants. They are enjoying themselves so much with their mud-baths.
Wow Ross, an amazing day and one to remember. Thanks for the pictures by Jess.
I’m not sure I could have watched the lioness closing in on Plaque Rock – I would have been tempted to call out “behind you”! She has history with lions and narrow escapes; I’m glad she got away safely and her cubs weren’t around. I could watch leopards climbing trees all day long, I just love their supreme grace and agility.
Thank you for sharing your amazing day. As much as I do love photos, I love good storytelling even more. Photos become unnecessary, the words paint the picture for me.
I also love you mentioning the Shangaan perspective and connection to the ancestors. Reminds us of what happens when we choose to perceive through our spiritual eyes and let our active mind rest. Magic things will appear…So thank you!
Hi Ross, you and your tracker and guests had a great afternoon filled with amazing animals. You had the big 5 in one afternoon and so near to camp. Pity the Plague rock female had to give up her hard earned kill to the lioness. But that is how it goes in the bush. Murphys law Ross, when you don’t have your camera with you, then you will have stunning opportunities to have taken beautiful foto’s.
Ross, I can read the excitement you and your guests experienced that afternoon – the big five in a short period of time in addition to seeing a leopard in a Leadwood tree! I’ve witnessed the former but have yet to view that magical moment when a leopard is perfectly draped on the naked branch! Even though you didn’t have your camera, that moment is etched in your memory bank forever, and can never be erased.
Incredible afternoon of sightings