This winter has been slightly different to the norm here at Londolozi. Usually, by the time we approach the winter solstice, the grass has already taken on its tawny shade of winter and the leaves of trees have started to shed their leaves. However, we’ve had unseasonal bouts of rain which have kept the water table high and there’s still a considerable amount of moisture in the air. What this means is we’ve had misty mornings as the cooling air cannot hold onto all this moisture. This is precisely how our morning drive crossing the sand river started.
The morning sunrise over the sand river is always a breathtaking sight. When the water temperature is warmer than the surrounding air it will often give rise to a misty haze.
Tracker Tsehpo Dzemba and I came up with our plan of exploring the northern stretches of the reserve while enjoying a cup of hot coffee on the Varty Camp deck. The river road that runs all the way along the northern bank of the Sand River is very often a hotspot for leopards as well as the lone lioness of the Tsalala Pride. Tshepo had told me that he had had a dream about an epic sighting in the north but couldn’t recall any clear details about it. Sometimes out in the bush, you need to trust your gut feel (or Tshepo’s in this case) and just go with it, no questions asked.
The Tsalala female poises in the morning light next to a small termite mound
Soon after we crossed the river we found tracks of the Tsalala Female on the aforementioned river road and knew they were from early that morning. Ranger Shadrack Mhkabela had just crossed the river at a different crossing point exactly where the tracks were heading. Within a few minutes of us following the tracks and a few helpful squirrel alarm calls, we had found the Tsalala female in a clearing full of early morning mist.
The Tsalala Female scanning the open crest on a misty morning in the northern stretches of the reserve.
We hadn’t been with her for long before she got up and walked with purpose towards a thick Combretum thicket. As she got to the thicket line her nose was down to the ground clearly picking up on the scent of something. She moved with haste from one spot to the next slowly building momentum as we tried to stay close enough to not lose her. All of a sudden she started running and we lost sight of her but up ahead of us we heard the commotion of a clan of hyenas, squabbling over a meal. As we ducked and dived through the thick bush Tshepo shrieked with excitement,
Leopard, leopard, in the tree!
The Senegal Bush Male watches from atop a marula tree.
Initially seen as a young male in 2016, this leopard only properly established territory on Londolozi in mid-2019
Up in the tree was the Senegal Bush Male with the last remains of an impala ram kill. At the base were at least seven hyenas fighting over some scraps that must’ve dropped as he had been feeding. The Tsalala Female rushed in and the hyenas noisily scattered in different directions. I turned to my guests and said,
“She’s going to climb the tree to try and steal what’s left of the kill.”
The Tsalala Female rather ungracefully begins to climb.
Lions aren’t usually the most adept climbers but they are certainly capable of climbing up a tree. Especially if they feel they could get a free meal. I’ve personally seen the Tsalala Female climb trees on numerous occasions even without the temptation of a free meal and so I was certain the temptation would get the best of her. She scaled the vertical trunk of the marula with ease. As she approached the Senegal Bush Male there was an almighty cacophony of growling and snarling by the lioness and leopard only to be followed by the laughing of the lucky hyenas below as the leopard’s kill dropped from the tree the hyenas ran off with the remains.
With no more meat left in the tree, the Tsalala Female clumsily descended the tree with no further altercation between the two arboreal predators. On this occasion, the Senegal Bush Male certainly got the lion’s share of the kill with the hyenas getting the scraps and the Tsalala female left empty-handed but at least she was injury-free. As bystanders of it all playing out in front of us we certainly weren’t left feeling empty-handed after experiencing an incredible scene!
It is a shame that the Tsalala lioness didn’t get anything for her efforts. But like her mother she is a formidable huntress so this small disappointment will be short lived, I’m sure. I’m just so glad that she’s doing well on her own. I’m still praying that she will find some companionship soon. She’s had such a difficult life. She deserves some good fortune. Her mother’s passing still breaks my heart.
Hi Lisa, she is indeed a formidable huntress and learnt a lot from her mother. She is doing very well on her own and hopefully she will defy the odds and raise cubs of her own like her predecessors of the Tsalala pride have done before.
Thanks Barry, that was scarily close! Could the Senegal Bush male have climbed higher in the tree? – we don’t want a repeat of what happened to the Piva male.
It’s interesting that the Tsalala female seems to like climbing trees. When we came to Founders for our 2nd trip (back in 2011) we followed 2 Tsalala females (plus 1 Majingilane male) . They stopped by a solitary tree in the middle of nowhere and 1 of the females climbed it – very clumsily it has to be said, but entertaining to watch!
Hi Suzanne, there wasn’t much extra space on the branch he was on for him to get further out of the way. The Tsalala pride have certainly do have a long history of being tree climbing lions. Sounds like you had an amazing sighting back in 2011!
I’m glad she can climb trees it may help her to avoid fights with other lioness
Nice to read about her
Hi Ian, glad to hear you enjoyed reading about her!
What a contrast between two great predators, the Tsalala female not giving a care of the scared Senegal Bush male. He is such a mighty guy but here he looks small and frightened like a kitten! The hyenas laughters in the background seem to be mocking on both, in fact they got the meal. So glad to see this lovely lady, I hope she will have some company in the future. Who knows if one day leopards will join their forces to fight other predators…
Hi Francesca, it’s always amazing to see the interactions of different predators in one sighting and certainly always provides perspective of the size difference between lions and leopards.
The tsalala female must be so Loney without even one lioness with her. I feel so sad for her, hopefully her life will get better she deserves it. Can no one there help her in anyway. Maybe she could live with Kevin Richardson and find a small pride there
Hi Tammy, we all have hope that she will be able to raise cubs of her own and hope that some of them will be females and that the Tsalala pride can regain some of its previous glory in higher numbers of lionesses.
So does your response mean there’s no chance she’d be accepted into another pride even a small one
Hi Tammy, it’s very unlikely that another pride will take her into theirs. Lion prides are very aggressive towards each other.
She must be desperate to climb a tree with a leopard right there, it’s a pity she did not get meat for all her effort and courage. Senegal Bush male was not happy with her trying to steal the last of his kill. But I must say Barry the Tsalala female is looking absolutely fantastic and I do hope she can get into a pride that will except her. She must be so lonely.
Hi Valmai, she really is in good condition. This is testament to how well her mother raised her and how capable she is of looking after herself and hopefully one day some of her own cubs too.
That’s sad that no prides will except her. She breaks my heart being all alone all the time
Good to hear from this famous and brave Tsalala lioness. Bad luck for her that the carcass fell off the tree and she had to leave empty-mouthed so to say.
For you and your guests it certainly was a great morning.
Hi Christa, it was bad luck for her but good luck for the hyenas. Out here in the bush there is always someone that gets lucky. Hopefully it will be her turn next.
Hello Barry, What an fantastic thing to see! Must have been very exciting! Thank you for sharing!
Hi Ann, it certainly was a fantastic thing to witness. I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Oh my Barry, that was a close call for her. Had the Senegal Bush male been more aggressive ( if he had at least half his kill in the tree), all could have turned out badly for Tsalala. She’s gutsy to say the least, just like her mother. I spent a morning with her and her mother last year and completely fell in love with the two of them. The daughter was almost as tall as her mother but she knew her place, dutifully walking a few paces behind as they went in search of shade, and perhaps an opportunity for a meal. I was devastated when the blog reported that the strong, brave Tsalala had lost her life and worried for the survival of her daughter, but like her mother who was left to fend for herself, this young lioness will survive against the odds. Thanks Barry for the images and video!
Hi Denise, it was a close call for both of them that’s for sure! They were a hard duo to not fall in love with and I’m glad you had the opportunity to see them together. Here’s hoping on one of your future trips you can see her with some of her own offspring.
Thanks Barry! Hopefully, if all heals well, I’ll return next spring, fall there. As if the shoulder replacement wasn’t enough plus nerve injury to affected arm, I was accidentally pushed by a friend’s SUV into a stone wall, crushing my right leg from knee down! Fractured knee, ripped shin skin and lacerations. Recovery will be arduous but I’m determined to make it back to normal. So, continue to enjoy the wonderful place in which you live and work.
So sorry to hear Denise. I wish you a speedy recovery and we look forward to welcoming you back to Londolozi soon!
I was waiting for this story to show up on the blog! I am so thrilled Tsalala is still holding her own. She is such a beautiful lion and I love following her story. I’m also glad the Senegal Bush Male was also left unharmed.
Hi Chelsea, she really is a beautiful lioness and I’m also glad nobody (except the impala) were harmed!
Fascinating. I know of tree climbing Lions, but I’ve never heard of any at Londolozi.
Hi Jeff, have a look at another sighting we had of a tree-climbing lioness last year: https://youtu.be/7V3wESwkTeU
That was incredible. Thanks for sharing.
GreaT post Barry. The wild never ceases to amaze me and never disappoints. Thanks!
Hi William, glad you enjoyed it!
Lovely lioness, the Tsalalas are in my heart! She must be about 3 years old now, just about old enough to have cubs of her own? She looks strong and well fed, hopefully we will see the Tsalalas prosper soon again!
Hi Irene, she was born in March 2019 so is almost 3.5 years old. She’s been calling and looking for a mate for the last few weeks so hopefully someday soon we will see her pregnant
Ah, that is good to hear! Keep us posted, thanks!
Over all the years that the Tsalala lioness (and her cubs) have tragically been through, it is a blessing to see her still thriving. (Question: is this the original mum, or the of the original thriving cubs now grown from the three?)
To me, she looks like a “strong willed” over grown kitten (smile) testing her skills.
Amazing how much bigger she is than him!!!
That was mesmerizing. Can’t wait to come back and see more of the amazing sights on safari at Londolozi.
That was amazing, Barry. Seeing the pictures, reading your commentary, and it’s almost if I was there. Can’t wait to come back for more incredible game drives.