“A cat has absolute emotional honesty: human beings, for one reason or another, may hide their feelings, but a cat does not.” Ernst Hemingway
In celebration of World Leopard Day, I sit here reflecting on one of the most outstanding periods in my life. Getting to know and embrace the leopards of Londolozi.
Finding Londolozi whilst finding myself
It’s one thing to read about leopards, to look at a striking image, to listen to their fleeting stories. Before arriving at Londolozi these were the only mediums in which I had encountered a leopard, I thought I had them mapped. I can recall vividly heading out on a drive with Sean Zeederberg, on the first of our many photographic adventures. I had only just arrived at Londolozi, hadn’t unpacked my kit and was feeling a little shattered. Sean didn’t give me a second, a flash and we were out in the bush.
The Three Rivers Young Male, the first leopard I had the privilege of photographing at Londolozi.
After seven years confined to a town, theorising the world, I felt something fall away. The world died outside of right now and I just welcomed every wild encounter. I was gripped by a rush; talking too fast, laughing for the sake of it, I felt genuine happiness accompanied by pure bliss in my soul. For the first time, I felt as though I didn’t need to be anywhere else. I have always felt most comfortable in nature and now I was living at Londolozi, I couldn’t quite get my head around it.
The first Leopard encounter
My mind was running out of control and I gripped tightly to every sensation that pulsated through me. A muffled voice crackled over the radio and, stuck in the moment, I forgot to listen. Sean turned with a smile,
Would you like to see a leopard?
There was only one answer and I didn’t have to say it, my big smirk was enough of a tell. We headed into a clearing and Sean calmly pointed out the Ximungwe Female and her son, the Ximungwe Young Male. It’s not a feeling I can put in words, my heart almost jumped out of my chest and my deep breaths failed to fill my lungs, quickening my breathing. I didn’t have a camera so I just lived that moment.
The Ximungwe Young Male
The pair seemed unperturbed by our presence. She walked right past the vehicle staring deep into my eyes, it was a moment that seemed to stop time. My back muscles contracted and I lent back slowly, feeling like I needed a little more space between the two of us. The Ximungwe Female then summited a large termite mound, the Ximungwe Young Male followed and flopped clumsily over his mother provoking a warning snarl.
“Don’t you find it interesting to see people so immersed in the life of an animal. They are just living, carrying on despite our presence and that captivates us humans” Sean Zeederberg
The Flat Rock Male looking stunning in this close-up shot. The soft light paints all manner of detail into the picture.
The land provides
Three months down the line and the sight of a leopard still drives my heart into my throat, but I have now begun to learn about their lives. I wanted more; Sean and I repetitively spoke about the Nhlanguleni Female. She was a leopard I was yet to see and rangers were confident she was about to birth cubs. For two weeks we visited multiple old den sights repeatedly and were unable to locate her.
Initially skittish she spent a lot of time in the Sand River, now relaxed she makes up the majority of leopard viewing west of camp.
I was taught a saying by ranger Chris Taylor :
“The land provides”
Chris chuckled, recalling how he’d chant it to himself when having an unsuccessful drive, he’d say it when he felt pressure to produce something for his guests, and sure enough something unfathomable would happen. It was one of the most important things I learned. Every fruitless outing we had was followed by something incredible and all you had to do was have a little patience.
Nkoveni Young Female fixated on a Cape Turtle Dove flying past.
Perseverance
But two weeks of failure felt a little different and I started to lose a little hope. Waking up before 5 every morning can become taxing, but the mantra rang continuously in my head, “the land provides, the land provides…”. Sean would return to suspected den sites every drive and every evening we’d be left appreciating a sunset
“Not what we were looking for but at least we get to see this everyday” Sean would start
“It could be worse” I’d respond
A sunset, interrupted by swallows in search of insects emerging in the evening.
At 10:30 in the morning, we had returned from our drive and were working in the office. Sean bounced out of his seat dashing for the camera equipment. I was up in response, not really knowing what was going on but I could see in Sean’s demeanour that it was something important.
“Jess has just seen Nhlanguleni carrying a cub, we need to go now!”
Reaping rewards
So the creative team hopped aboard the photographic vehicle, beneath a blistering sun, in the hopes we hadn’t missed the most incredible sighting. A sighting I had continuously constructed in my mind, I had obsessed about this moment. We stopped at a distance to avoid disturbing the scene and scanned with binoculars. Sean caught a glimpse of the Nlanguleni Female but she was tucked under thick brush so we just waited patiently for any view of her cub.
About an hour went by and we witnessed fleeting views of a tiny creature, the atmosphere in the car was tangible and we just couldn’t believe we were in the presence of a mother leopard and her cub. Sweat streamed and it was getting really uncomfortable to be out but suncream was on and you couldn’t move us.
Nhlanguleni Female emerging from her den site. It was almost impossible to capture a clean shot of her.
Nhlanguleni then got up and left her den, she was marching in the direction of her old den site and that triggered Sean, she could have a second cub! Instantly my heart returned to my throat and began its usual jackhammer thumping. We arrived at her old den site and sat for a couple minutes waiting for her to arrive. Movement stirred in my peripheral and I turned and laid eyes on the Nhlanguleni Female.
There! She’s been here the whole time!
Nothing can compare
The rosette beauty made her way down toward the road and we held our breath in anticipation. Then I witnessed a small fur-ball, with speckles, not rosettes, resting helplessly in the clutches of mum’s mouth. A moment in my life that I’ll struggle to draw a comparison to, it could well be the most incredible moment I have ever experienced.
A brave and courageous mother carried her cub along a winding road for over a kilometre. We had the privilege of being with her every step of the way. Being mindful not to get too close, but being close enough to really live this once in a lifetime experience. The Nhlanguleni Female was unperturbed by our presence. In nearly 40 degrees Celsius temperatures she had one goal, to carry her cub to the safety of her new den.
We found ourselves back at the den where we first laid eyes on the Nhlanguleni Female. Just in time for her to walk down the riverbed and our final view of mother and cub was the most stunning. She reached the riverbank and paused for about ten seconds. Again, time stood still, I lowered my camera and lived the last seconds of that breathtaking experience. Cognisant of the fact that I’d probably never witness something quite like this again in my life.
Culminating remarks
I will conclude this piece by referring to Hemingway’s quote. Watching leopards over the past four months has taught me how genuine nature is. There is no point to prove but rather a need to be, to survive. And I have learnt wonders from the animals I interact with on a daily basis. Sean’s quote is one I have thought about for a long time. Why are we so drawn to the life of an animal, being able to watch them in their natural state? I find it evokes longing in my soul, I want to exist as genuinely as they do, I want to feel that integrity in my being.
Thanks Tristan, that was beautiful – and how lovely you could illustrate it with your own wonderful photos. I totally understand Sean’s comment; to be able to view such amazing wildlife just going about their business as if we weren’t there takes us into their world in a very special way. It bears repeating that we can only do this because of all the work over many years that has gone into the land to allow the wildlife to flourish. Of course it also makes a massive difference when you own the land and can therefore restrict the number of vehicles per sighting to 3 or less – otherwise you affect the behaviour of the very animals you came to see.
Thank you Susan for your kind words. And I agree with your sentiments, Londolozi has managed the land incredibly and the bush has responded. We are blessed to venture into these places and to see the things we see.
Nicely said, Tristan, and how lucky you are to have experienced this event! Having seen the cubs and mum at the new den site, I can truly relate to your feelings.
So so so lucky! And I’m glad you got to witness the same scene Mary.
Captivating story with some beautiful photos! Thanks!
Thanks Marcia!
Tristan, Thanks for sharing your amazing story! The images tell part of the experience, but your words kept us waiting for the big moment! Incredible!
Only a pleasure Michael and Terri, I loved this story, it was probably the easiest I’ve ever written. I found passion and it overflowed onto paper
Thank you Tristan your story is captivating just like the fotos you took of the Nhlanguleni female and her beautiful, gorgeous cubs. You will never forget that sight and your heart will always have a special place for the Nhlanguleni female and her cubs. Sean has taught you a lot and he is so patient and his foto’s are stunning.
You are correct Valmai, I will always recall this vividly! Thank you for your kind words
This blog should carry a sweetness warning notice, superb photos .
Now this I love to hear, thank you Ian!
Wow, such amazing pictures of the mother leopard carrying her cub!!!!
Thank you Bob and Lucie!
“The land provides”, a good saying indeed.
The other day we drove early in the morning along a road and suddenly, behind a bend there was a leopard mother -without a certain name – carrying her cub to a new den. We were so surprised that nobody had a camera ready and she vanished down the hill towards a riverbed and into thick bush.
It was such a wonderful experience.
I love the leopards of Londolozi. The nice thing there is that you very often can really see and watch them.
A fleeting sight but a view of a cub nonetheless, for some it will remain a figment of imagination. I agree Christa, the leopards of Londolozi are incredible!
And Tristan: Stunning photos! Thanks for sharing.
The passion and excitement is evident in your words and images. Well done.
Thanks Jeff, a while back I was told write what you love and you’ll love what you write. Passion creates incredible things!
Greeat job describing your initial encounter with a leopard and the good fortine to observe mother carrying cub.
I can still clearly remember my first encounter.
Something that will live with us forever Vin!
Tristan, your words and photographs brought tears to my eyes. It is a gift to view these beautiful animals living their life, as though our presence is part of the surroundings, and not a threat. To view weeks old cubs has been on my bucket list for a couple of decades, and I hope each trip, that one of my drives will bring my wish to fruition. I was close last year as Ximungwe had given birth but her cub was well- hidden…. I can imagine you watching Nhlanguleni carry her precious cub, filled with awe, joy and excitement! Your photos are truly magical, capturing those special moments. Londolozi has provided a safe environment for all the animals living there, implementing conservation measures so that the land is rich with food, shelter and water. Fortunately John Varty and his tracker/friend led the way to habituating leopards, so that they’d feel protected and guests could be able to view them as easily as is possible with these elusive cats. There’s nothing to equal the feeling of a leopard passing by you, close enough to touch, it’s eyes looking deep into your own and then then continue on, silently moving into the bush. Thank you Londolozi and staff for providing that extraordinary experience!
Denise I am humbled by your response. And share your sentiments! I look back at this piece of writing as some of my best work and I still feel that it falls short of truly replicating the events that took place. Stick with it, what you do know with this incredible place, the land will provide!
Really great read!
Thank you Carly
When I think of perfection in nature, one of the first image that comes to my mind is leopard. Then, if anything more can be added, you have a tiny leopard cub! They are so wonderful, agile, elegant, expressive, intelligent animals and always take you by surprise. Besides all the captivating tales from Londolozi, like the adoption of a male cub or the legacy between father and son, I recently read about an Indian leopard that spent its night with a cow. Every night, they are inseparable. There is so much to learn about them, those wonderful creatures embedded in mystery so beautifully revealed by your pictures and tale.
Well put Francesca, a rosette mystery box. An animal that we have befriended at Londolozi but are only scratching the surface with understanding their complex ways!
Beautiful written Tristan as you can feel every word came from your heart. This magical meeting of leopard and human, where both respect the other, is certainly thanks to the time and patience the Londolozi family have dedicated in rewilding their land and ensuring that the leopard are given the space they need. Your photos say it all. I do hope you continue to enjoy more of these magical moments to share with us 🙏🏻
A sighting of a lifetime! And a bucket list sighting so many of us long for…….what terrific luck and tracking and searching, and rewarded so fabulously!
Thankyou so much Tristan for your exquisite sightings and your beautifully expressed story of your amazing leopard encounters over the years at Londolozi….it was completely absorbing and a wonderful compelling read…. Thankyou again…take care, Pauli