Being a guide/ranger at Londolozi allows you the opportunity to be a part of working teams.
Probably the most special of these teams is the one with your fellow tracker. As rangers we get the opportunity to spend up to eight hours a day with some of the most skilled people in the industry, men whose wisdom has been passed down for generations.
The men behind the sightings. Former Head Tracker Richard Siwela and Freddy Ngobeni (R) take a rest after having successfully tracked a female leopard.
Freddy Ngobeni and I started working together in 2019. From our vehicle we have seen and witnessed some of the most amazing sightings with our guests that anyone could wish for. However, with a man of his experience and true tracking class, the real excitement often happens off the vehicle.
I’d love to share one of these moments with you…
Freddy, me and our four guests set out of Varty camp around 5am in the hope of finding Lions. We drove for about 25 minutes when Freddy’s right hand rose from the seat in front, instructing me to stop. Full of energy we both jumped off the vehicle to inspect what lay ahead.
Lion tracks.
The tracks were crossing the road; a whole pride of them, “and males” explained Freddy. They were fresh, maybe an hour or so before we got there.
Tracks of a pride of lions. This is very similar to what lay in front of Freddy and me.
With our guests parked in the comfort of a shady Marula tree, Freddy and I decided to follow the tracks a little further into the bushes to establish which general direction they were heading.
Freddy mentioned that we only needed to check the next 200m, so we set off into the long grass.
Freddy, in front of me, wasn’t just following tracks anymore, he was looking for all manner of signs indicating a passing feline. Flattened grass, broken twigs, a stray strand of fur, and the odd track in a bare patch of soil kept the two of us moving forward slowly. All of a sudden, a couple of hundred metres from our vehicle Freddy came to a sudden halt. There they were, the whole pride lying in the long grass up ahead of us!
A deep growl from one of the adult females of the Ntsevu pride ensured that we didn’t take another step closer. She was warning us; fortunately we were still at a comfortable distance. It’s hard to really describe the feeling of finding lions on foot: excitement, intensity, exhilaration, are just a few, but are mere words.
After realising where they were and a firm, but quiet, fist pump with Freddy it was now time to – very slowly – head back to the vehicle to take our guests in to see what we (Freddy) had found.
Through the long grass, this is similar to what we could see. One of the Ntsevu Lionesses.
This experience is just one of the many incredible times Freddy and I have shared together so far, whether it’s a moment like this one out in the bush following wild animals, or some good laughs under the giant Ebony in Varty car park. These moments may only last a few minutes but they are definitely ones I’ll never forget.
Lovely experience. The trackers at Londolozi are the best.
We have so enjoyed or experiences with Freddy Ngobeni. Not only is he a fantastic tracker, but he is so wise about life in general as well as being a great father. A great human being!
(We joked about being distant relatives with similar family names.)
Another wonderful tribute to Freddy was written by ranger Callum Gowar immediately prior to his departure from Londolozi in 2017.
https://blog.londolozi.com/2017/10/24/a-tribute-to-a-great-man-and-life-long-friend/
Dan, I loved the photos, I especially the like the photos Richard Siwela & Freddy🤗
Thank you for sharing! I’m looking forward to take part one day… trackers are pure gold
Hi Dan, Thank you for sharing this! It must have been very exciting! What a moment!
Being on foot out in the bush is really one of the best experiences in the world
We had an amazing few days with Freddy and Paul in April 19, highlight was Freddy recounting the comings and goings as the water dried up at a large patch of cracked mud that had evidently once been a wallowing spot for all sorts of animals. It was quite amazing what he could see in the dried mud and he told the story of the last water in his beautifully softly spoken way. We can’t wait to be back with you, with thanks for keeping us going with all the photographic and virtual safaris. Best wishes to you all at Londolozi from the UK, Richard and Rachel Potter.
I can’t imagine the excitement of not only finding, but standing on the ground not far from a pride of lions!!! Great blog!
Very interesting to see how you and Freddy found the lions by tracking them and I am sure you both were very excited that you found the whole pride lying in the grass. Your guests must have been very excited to see the whole pride together.
What a thrilling experience, Dan! One you’ll long remember. I tremble putting myself in your shoes!
What a wonderful start to the day!!It is always awesome to be near lions whether asleep or awake.! On our first visit to Londolozi we were driving looking at lion tracks and came upon the 4 male brothers asleep. we stopped and watched and all of a sudden one of the males woke up looked at us strolled to the side of the car. Mu husband was sitting there. Jess said everyone just still, I am not sure if Phil was holding his breath or both after a couple of minutes the lion went back to where the other 3 were still asleep , lay down rolled onto his and went back. It was quite a moment!! Exciting and a bit scary, but Jess and Jeff kept us cool and safe. Thank you Victoria
IF …. a big IF … Freddy and I weren’t married to our respective spouses I would propose to him now now. Sorry we missed our November 2020 visit but looking forward to October 2021. Can’t wait to see Freddy!
Freddy was my tracker when I visited Londolozi in 2017. His skill was amazing. We spent a few hours on foot one day when sightings were slow and Freddy explained in story form what he was seeing in the tracks. Lions were walking then stalking and chasing a Buffalo. The Buffalo was in distress but ultimately the lions gave up the chase. ALL of this was a story Freddy told while looking at tracks I couldn’t see!!
Dan, that kind of experience would send shivers down my back. Did you back up oe turn slowly and walk back?
Hi Bob and Lucie,
For the first few seconds we backed up, then walked slowly back towards the vehicle.
The trackers are unbelievable! Their talents come from knowing their territory and understanding the animals plus lots of intense studies too i am sure! Fascinating!
Beautiful writing about your relationship with Freddy. You’re both fortunate to have such good mates and your guests reap the benefits of that bond.
Great story Dan! Reading Alex’s and Renias’ book “Changing a Leopard’s Spots” and you blog is right on track!!
How do you know that they will not attack you when you are on foot?
What a great experience Dan..perhaps not one I would personally enjoy as I’m sure they would smell the fear oozing out of every pore !
Dan, thanks for the heart-bounding story! Always trust your tracker!
That’s incredible. I haven’t read the blog in ages, but I am glad to be back to these great stories!