Midway through the doldrums of last year’s lockdown, Bronwyn Varty-Laburn wrote an interesting blog post on the changing trends of travel and how the safari industry is in fact perfectly tee’d up to meet the new demands of modern, post-covid travel. In this, she highlighted the new desire for ‘long-stay’ travel;
“2020 has shown us all that less is more and that travellers are waking up to the power of staying in one place for longer. Lucky for us, when it comes to long stays, the safari industry finds its self very well positioned and – quite by accident – ahead of the pack.”
There is no doubt that this appears to be the new answer to travelling – particularly international long distance travel. Up until now, our international market has been somewhat restricted since the opening of our borders at the end of last year. However, as predicted in last years post by Bron, this long-stay trend slowly seems to be cottoning on as travel becomes easier.
Recently I had the chance to lead a long stay, 12-day safari here at Londolozi with multiple repeat guest, Christa Blessing, who made a fantastic effort to make her way across the continent and join us from her home country of Switzerland to which she has now returned safely. We had an incredible time exploring the different corners of the reserve and what they have to offer, and had the luxury of being able to settle into the rhythm of the landscape without feeling rushed. We spent just over 85 hours on game drive during this time – that’s a total of three and half days on the Land Rover looking for and viewing animals. Needless to say, we had some outstanding sightings, some of which I’d like to share in pictures.
Enjoy…
A male cheetah strolls through the long grasses of the open areas in the south western parts of the reserve. This male’s territory stretches across a large portion of the central/western parts of the Sabi Sand Reserve and isn’t seen that often. We were lucky to spot him from a distance early one morning as he stood up on top of a fallen over tree.
The wild dog viewing has been incredible over the last two weeks, to the point where we have had at least one pack (sometimes two) on the reserve everyday. With winter (their breeding season) slowly approaching, we all have our fingers crossed that they might decide to den somewhere within our traversing area again this year. We were in fact lucky enough to see the alpha pair of this pack mating one afternoon, which was a first for me.
Two wild dogs trotting down the airstrip.
It can always be argued that the airstrip isn’t a desirable site for wildlife photography, and I do agree, but only to a certain extent. The clean openness of the strip provides an unmatched opportunity for clear photographs while it is also a fantastic illustration of the juxtaposition between man and wilderness.
A pair of giant kingfishers have taken up residence at the Causeway recently and have been providing us with some amazing views as we pass by. This male (the female’s rufous plumage is on the belly, not the chest) was keeping a beady eye on the water flowing past below waiting for an unsuspecting fish or frog to come floating by.
A giraffe bull browses peacefully on an acacia bush under a rather moody sky. Cloudy days like this will slowly fade into memory as we get closer to winter where we are treated to endless days of crisp, dry blue skies and cooler temperatures.
The Nkahuma pride were on the reserve for a few days too. It was my first time seeing them in months. They seemed to be trailing a large herd of buffalo which were settled up about a kilometre further north of them on this evening. We’re not sure if they were successful in catching one that night but they were last seen heading off in that direction looking rather hungry.
A tree squirrel explores the ancient ripples of a dead leadwood branch. The textures of these dead branches are quite captivating and could even make a decent photograph on their own. But it was great to have the squirrel around to make things a bit more interesting.
This female leopard was chased up a Jackalberry by the Nkahuma pride. She safely settled up there until darkness fell and the lions moved off, before descending the tree and vanishing into the night.
Stwise Koppie on a misty morning. This rocky outcrop is an iconic feature of the area and sits just north of the Sand River, downstream from the Londolozi camps. While we do not traverse the area around the koppie itself, it still provides us with a welcome break in the otherwise soft, undulating shape of the landscape.
The Senegal Bush male lifts his glance as he walks by our vehicle. We spent this afternoon watching him and the Nhlanguleni female mating. This led us to question whether or not she had lost her most recent litter of cubs but we have since found them to be alive and well! Quite astonishing considering that she was occupied mating for four days in a completely different area of the reserve.
In the theme of close up facial shots, this Ntsevu lioness sidled up alongside our vehicle and sat down just a couple of meters from us. She was accompanied by a lone Birmingham male while the other portion of the pride could be heard calling in the distance as the sun set. The two of them were quick to reply and we were fortunate enough to be alongside two roaring lions before they got on the move in the direction of the rest of the pride.
We were woken to the unmistakable call of a lion close to camp one morning. Just five minutes after departing, we found ourselves with the Othawa male as he settled up on a termite mound at the southern end of our airstrip and surveyed the eastern reaches of his territory. While sitting with him, we enjoyed all the sounds that came with sunrise and heard, amongst other things, wild dogs ‘hooing’ in the distance and leopards mating (Senegal Bush male and Nhlanguleni female) in a nearby drainage line.
We unknowingly flushed this tawny eagle up into the tree as we drove by it. It was clearly carrying something in its talons and after having a closer look found it to be a guineafowl which it must have just caught. We sat and watched it feed for a while in the branches of a dead leadwood.
The Xinzele female put on an athletic display as she leaped up into a tall marula where she had stashed a common duiker kill that she had made the night before. She could possibly be the most viewed leopard at Londolozi at the moment, often found draped in a tree in the central northern parts of the reserve. Having seen her mating a couple of months ago, we could expect her to have a litter of cubs fairly soon.
We sat with the Ntsevu pride for over an hour as they slowly rose from their slumber. As they began to move about, the majority of the pride (which numbered 13 that day) each in their own time walked over to this same Leadwood tree and stretched themselves out by gripping their claws into the bark above their heads and extending their bodies below.
The Othawa male performs a flehmen grimace. While marching through the long grass he paused for a moment and inspected a scent on the ground – likely a patch of urine left behind by another lion from some time ago. After inhaling the scent he lifted his head, tilted it back and snarled like this. This grimace activates a specialised organ on the palate of the mouth which registers and interprets the scent that has been left behind. The olfactory systems of communication in the animal kingdom are astonishing and rather difficult for us humans to fully understand.
We were extremely lucky with rhino sightings over the course of the 12 days. On this particular afternoon we saw no less than nine different individuals; one of which was this large bull who had clearly found a comfortable spot in this wallow at sunset.
The Xinzele female watches a small herd of elephant pass by under the tree in which she had stashed her common duiker kill. It was quite a thick tree but the afternoon sunlight managed to find its way through the foliage and light her up perfectly.
These were just a few of the special moments we had over the 12 days. In total we saw three prides of lions (Nstevu, Nkahuma and Tsalala), four different male lion coalitions (Birmingham, Othawa, Avoca and a pair of unidentified young males), eleven different leopards (Nhlanguleni, Ximungwe, Xinzele, Nkuwa, Nkoveni females and the Senegal Bush, Flat Rock and Maxim’s males as well as a special sighting of the Nkoveni female’s two cubs and the Piccadilly young female). We had six different wild dog sightings of two different packs and watched them successfully catch and feed on an impala one evening as well as a rare view of a male cheetah early one morning.
We watched wild dogs, leopard and lion mating and saw a little sparrowhawk feeding on a Levaillant’s cuckoo, found a new Saddle-billed stork nest, watched a python feed on a spurfowl and unbelievably watched as a Birmingham male and Nstevu lioness caught and killed a hyena!
The longer stay provided us with the opportunity to take our time in sightings and search longer for animals which can, a lot of the time, lead to better game viewing.
I’d certainly recommend the long-stay option….
WOW! Amazing!
I was struck by the Senegal Bush male’s eyes and the lion’s as well. The difference between the Ntsevu lioness expression and the Othawa male says it all. Anyway leopards are number one when it comes to eyes close-up. I think the Othawa male is the most beautiful one in the area he’s gorgeous
sounds heavenly! in the 6 visits we have made to Londolozi I always feel we have not stated long enough! what a wonderful experience and thank you for the wonderful photographs! Victoria
That is fantastic that your guests could stay longer and see so much more of Londolozi and all the animals. They were so lucky to see 11 different leopards and the diffrrent lion prides. Not to talk about the wild dogs and other animals. All the foto’s are absolutely beautiful, I’m sure your guests thoroughly enjoyed the different sightings and longer stay at Londolozi.
Actually meeting this week to discuss this possibility!
Chris, I loved all the leopards, and the lion🤗
Some lovely photos for sure!
GREAT PICS AND WOW WHAT AWESOME SIGHTINGS!!!!!!!!
So would I again .. Thanks Chris for the beautiful photos and this great “Tale of 12 Days”! They were the most wonderful 12 days I could ever have imagined. And the hospitality of Londolozi cannot be beaten. Great drives, wonderful food, relaxing periods of rest between drives, enjoying the pool and my lovely treehouse and all the nice surprises and extras. Thanks to all of you again!
We couldn’t agree more! Our last two visits have been more than a week long and our next one will be 14 nights. We’ve visited lodges all over southern and Eastern Africa but now prefer where everything is best – wildlife viewing, knowledgeable rangers and trackers, superb accommodations, excellent food, staff friendliness – Londolozi!
Mary Beth, I enjoyed a fantastic 7 nights there and have been back in the East Bay for a week, wishing it was twice as long-next time! Enjoy your stay.
I concur-long stays are definitely the best way to enjoy one’s safari experience. I only wish I’d had 2 weeks instead of one as I was just getting into the rhythm.
Especially love the close-ups. We still hope to come in November, covid willing.
Lucky Christa! – and lovely photos, Chris; I’ve added lots of them to my “favourites.” As you say, it’s very strange that Nhlanguleni should be mating when she’s got cubs. Is the Senegal Bush male the likely father of her cubs? – but that would seem pointless.
I’m glad you enjoyed the photos, Suzanne.
Given that the Nhlanguleni female was going out of her way to mate with the Senegal Bush male despite already having birthed cubs indicates that he is unlikely the father and that she is in fact distracting him and fooling him into thinking he is, should he encounter them later on. Female leopards have been known to do this ‘distraction mating’ before but it seldom lasts longer than a day or two at the most.
That’s interesting Chris, I did wonder about that. I don’t know how much concept of time leopards have, but let’s hope he doesn’t bump into those cubs too soon – he might think “well that was a bit quick!”
The longest stay I’ve managed was 10 nights and I loved every minute of it. Fingers crossed I’ll be back for 6 nights in October🤗
Wonderful pictures! Whatever happened to the one-earred female wild dog and her mate?
We haven’t had any further sign of that pack unfortunately. We suspect that they could have moved further east into the Kruger National Park and haven’t returned again. Given the fact that they were a pack of only two adults and several pups did make them very vulnerable though, so we hope for the best.
Some great shots Chris and a noteworthy explanation about the long stay safaris. That makes sense, especially for someone travelling internationally – can catch up with sleep and rest longer. I think that would add to the enjoyment of the safari. Thanks for sharing.
Wowza! What a fabulous trove of sightings and experiences! Cannot wait to hear about new cubbies for Xinzele and Nhulanguleni!
What a lovely safari!! Incredible sightings, I think there is a lot of people reading the blog with a bit of jealousy…..
Just one quick question. Do you know where the Ximungwe young male is? Haven’t seen a blog oor story about him for a while now.. And will his name stay the Ximungwe male or will he be renamed?
Hi Christiaan, apparently he moved north from Londolozi, although we haven’t heard of him in a few weeks. He may even have left the Sabi Sand Reserve entirely. Yes, he will probably be renamed…
Now this is for sure something spectacular. You guys had awesome sightings in this 12 days. You are lucky to could enjoy the bush for such an long time.
What envy reading and seeing all the wonderful game that Christa saw. How I wish I could have 12 days at Londolozi..in fact more would be preferable 😁..but hey, maybe when we are ‘allowed out’ we might get to enjoy something as wonderful as this. Fabulous photos Chris 🙏🏻💕
Absolutely wonderful! What a joy for the rest of us to see! Such good pictures too. Thank you so much! We have so much enjoyed some of your 12 day stay, Christa! Wendy M
What a wonderful blog filled with beautiful photos.. The Othawa Male sure is a gorgeous young male! Hope he stays safe. It is always a pleasure to see Senegal Bush/Kunyuma the older he gets the more he resembles Mvula.
Thank you for sharing your little piece of paradise
Lovely photographs to go with the story behind each photo. Very enjoyable.
The story behind each photo makes each photo most enjoyable. Thank you.
Stunning array of photos Chris! Would live to see a “sequel round” to this wonderfully long and in-depth safari!