A few years ago I was fortunate to live and work in South Africa. Given that I am keen amateur wildlife photographer, I spent as much of my spare time as I could in the bush. Over the three years I was in SA, I was lucky to see almost everything – except that is, the elusive leopard.
A colleague told me that I should go to Londolozi for the best chance of seeing one, so as my time in SA was coming to an end, I did just that. Over a two day stay at Varty Camp in late 2011, we (myself and my parents who were visiting me at the time), saw seven different leopards.
At last, the leopard was not so elusive.
I now live in Ireland, and I certainly miss the bush. As it happens so do my parents! So last month the three of us returned to Londolozi, this time staying at Founders Camp for three nights. I know that there is absolutely no guarantee that guests get to see Leopards Of Londolozi, so expectations weren’t that high. Honest.
When we met Andrea and Advice (our Ranger and Tracker) for our first game drive, we said that we saw seven leopards last time and that, jokingly, we were hoping to beat that. Andrea said that the pressure was on. Advice just smiled.
Within five minutes, Andrea had found our first leopard – in a tree with her kill, considering her next move as two hyenas were circling. That spot set the tone for the rest of our stay at Londolozi, as over the course of six drives we saw 12 different leopards. Yes, 12! Way beyond expectations.
Andrea and Advice worked brilliantly together and were determined to find us the best spots. On one of the afternoon drives, we headed out to find the Nhlanguleni female’s cubs. We eventually found one of the them, and having spent some time with it, we then headed out to find the Flat Rock Male who had been spotted near the Sand River.
On the way, Advice suddenly shouted ‘leopard’. Andrea stopped the jeep and asked where it was. Advice pointed to a tree some 100m away. We all looked. And we looked again. Even through binoculars, we couldn’t see anything.
Andrea found a way through the bush and as we closed in on the tree that Advice had pointed at, we still couldn’t see the leopard. Even at 10 metres away, we couldn’t see it. We got even closer, and then sure enough, there was a leopard relaxing on a branch and quite hidden from view. How Advice spotted that leopard from that distance, I will never know. It turns out it was the Mashaba female.
The Mashaba female is currently Londolozi’s best-known leopard. Her relaxed nature means she is comfortable around the vehicles.
Continuing the journey to find the Flat Rock Male, ten minutes later Advice spotted another leopard, this time near the airstrip. We were in awe. Imagine seeing two leopards that you weren’t expecting to see on the way to find another leopard that you were hoping to see. Worth saying we also saw the Flat Rock Male that drive. So that was four different leopard spots on one drive.
One of the best things about having a private vehicle was that on the morning drives there was no rush to get back to Camp for breakfast – indeed, breakfast came to us! One morning we tracked the Ximungwe Female leopard, and Andrea hoped that she would take us to where she was keeping her month-old cubs. Unfortunately, she didn’t, but that didn’t matter. What was beyond expectations, was finding ourselves having a delicious breakfast in the jeep parked next to the Marula tree in which the leopard was resting. Occasionally, she looked down on us to see what we were eating.
Having been viewed by vehicles from an early age, this leopard is supremely relaxed around Land Rovers.
The following morning, breakfast was brought out to us again, and this time we had breakfast alongside some other cubs – lion cubs. Three of them together with three lionesses. Whilst the lion cubs played with each other, we munched on our tasty croissants and drank our coffee. Moments that stay with you forever.
Many thanks to Andrea and Advice, and the entire team at Founders Camp for making our few days at Londolozi so memorable.
But next time, the target to beat will be 12!
Amazing sightings Richard. Great images. Lucky to view the lions. If it is leopards you want to see, there is only one place and that is Londolozi.
Thanks Marinda – I think we were very lucky!
I can still remember quite vividly our first leopard sighting in 2013 in a tree within 15 minutes of leaving camp–impala in tree; saliva dripping from its mouth; totally alert as hyenas approached.
Vin – that’s a cracking first Leopard spot to have! Mine was a 5 second glimpse of the back end of a Leopard disappearing into the bush.
Richard, I thoroughly enjoyed your narrative, Reading this brought me right back to how I felt when I visited Londolozi. Great times and a life changing experience. Thank you
Thank you – pleased you enjoyed reading the blog.
Loved the stories and the photos! So exciting!
Thanks Darlene!
Hello Richard, we were stunned by your breathtaking images of leopards and the playful cubs as well as your fascinatingly account of the three days spent in Londolozi. A gifted eye that captures magical moments and we have so enjoyed them. Patrick and I, lived in South Africa for 5 years – 3 of them in KZN and spent as much time as we could in the African bush, which truly steals your heart and soul. We never saw a leopard. We saw everything else. Now, living in Spain, I ache for Africa but am nourished by the photos and films of the world’s most stunning and precious wildlife. Pamela
Hi Pamela… I agree… there is something quite special about the African bush. I hope you get to see a Leopard one day…
Hello Richard!
What a fantastic safari you and your parents had! Beautiful photos! I specially liked your photo of Ximungwe 5:3 Female in the tree with the impala, what a wounderful perspective in that photo!
So elegant she is climbing, so high up! Impressive!
What a beautiful bird you found! What a splendour! I have never seen something like it. She lookes like a Queen with that tiara!
You have really fantastic company when you eat breakfast! Good for you that they don’t like croissants… Thank you for sharing!
HI Ann… thanks for your comments. Yes, that’s the Crested Barbet – not a common sight, so we were also lucky to see it. Richard
Your images are outstanding and I envy you living in South Africa . . . I live in the States and becoming a resident of South Africa is a goal of my wife and I. While all of your images are great, I particularly like the Zebras. What lenses did you use during your safaris?
Hi Jeff, I used a Canon 1oo-400mm lens on a 5D Mark II. I then use Lightroom to bring the photos to life! Richard
Some cracking photos – well done
Thanks Ian!
Wow, Richard. 12 leopards on one holiday at Londolozi! They certainly have a challenge for the next time you are in South Africa! Thank you for the most interesting article. Wendy M (who was born in S.A. and, having lived elsewhere, wouldn’t move away from the Bush. This place, with all its warts, is HOME!)
Thanks Wendy. I suspect that next time, 12 will be a very difficult target to beat!
Hi Richard, We love your photo of the leopard in the tree – using an adjoining branch as a pillow. Glad you had such a successful safari. We were at Londolozi for 6 days in September and saw leopards on every drive except for one.
Thanks Suzi – I also really like that photo! Had some great sightings.