It’s always fascinating reminiscing about the early days at Londolozi and how things have changed. Every so often we hear from someone who visited us back in the day and if we really lucky they send us pictures too. In this case we were lucky; Russell MacWilliam writes to tell us how he become familiar with Londolozi and shares with us some of his pictures:
“I grew up, in large measure, a city slicker. My mother enjoyed hotel holidays and my father had sworn never to camp again, after having served for an extended period in the Western Desert during the Second World War. He relented when we could not get into the Kruger National Park except to camp. In any event, I developed a passion for the bush.
Varty Camp main deck area
Where angels fear to tread – Shan and Dave with brother in-law and sister (Gavin and Di) dreaming of the future of Londolozi.
When I was 21, while in my third year completing my B.Comm degree at Wits, I played inter-faculty rugby for the Commerce Faculty. As it turned out, John Varty played for the Arts Faculty. As I recall, in September 1973 we played against each other and met afterwards for a drink in the Devonshire Pub in Braamfontein. I had never met John before that. Over a beer he must have recognised my passion for the bush, and invited me to come and help out for December 1973, when John intended to start operating Londolozi full time. I accepted with alacrity and it changed my life.
Winnis Mathebula – the last of the hunter gatherers, born at the turn of the century. Surrogate father to the Varty brothers at the birth of Londolozi. Framed by an alien and invasive Queen of the Night plant, with beautiful flowers but disastrous conservation consequences; now since all removed from the camps at Londolozi.
Some time during December Dave Varty arrived at Londolozi. I remember him being taken aback to find this stranger there who had so little to offer any sensible operator of a game lodge. Peter Norton, who was also there, was as I recall studying Zoology – and his father owned a Land Rover. Mackie, who also spent time there in December could fix Land Rovers. Dave Lawrence could play the guitar and sing – a quality much admired by John Varty.
I, on the other hand, did my best to keep out of trouble and not to make a nuisance of myself.
Returning with the month’s supplies.
When I read Boyd’s book recently, he gave the best explanation for my being so fortunate to have been in Londolozi that December. “John Varty”, he stated, “is in his own wacky way, when you least expected it, incredibly generous and big-hearted”. I was the recipient of that generosity and big-heartedness.
Impassable roads during the early days of construction at Londolozi
I remember being on the back of a Land Rover and doing my best to identify birds as we went along. Halfway through, to my horror, I discovered that there was an ex-ranger on the Land Rover who had spent 5 years in the Rhodesian National Parks Department! On another occasion, John Varty sent me out to take a game walk. I carried the rifle. I am not sure what use I would have been in a crisis. I remember a bushbuck exploding out of the bush right next to me – my heart leapt into my mouth and I had trouble keeping my knees under control. Sensibly, however, he had sent Two Tone as the back-up.
Londolozi Varty Camp phase one. 1976 and windmill the sole source of water
Staff transport c. 1970
On another occasion John and I were taking two teenage girls for a walk. My contribution was to see if I could sail one of their shoes across the water hole where we had stopped for a break. Although John and I thought that it was very funny, it ended up in tears as one of the girls, for some strange reason, was mortified. If I am to be brutally honest, my contribution was worth less than the cost of feeding me!
Lesson one in the safari business – don’t build below the high water mark as we witnessed the flooding of our first ever bush camp c. 1971
Chef extraordinaire Spook Sithole (left) with assistant Swathlane Mathebula outside the Londolozi “kitchen pantry complex” c. 1970
What I was able to do though, was to take the photographs which I now send to you, which, at long last, I hope have contributed something in return for John’s generosity and Dave’s long-suffering.
Having said that, my time at Londolozi ignited my passion for walking in the bush, as well as the basic skills to be able to do that. It also meant that I was invited to spend 6 weeks on Toulon (now Harry’s Huts) a year later and 10 days helping with the game count on Kingston (now Sabi-Sabi).
Gearbox repairs -Land Rover due on game drive that same afternoon.
First ever photographic hide – perfect black mamba habitat
In 1980, I left Johannesburg to work in London for a year and I spent the next year cycling from London to Israel, whereafter I emigrated to Cape Town. After that I lost contact with all of my connections to Londolozi and the Sabi Sand. It is with enormous nostalgia that I will return more than 40 years later to be with you this weekend.”
Wonderful memories. The photographs are priceless. It is so special to be able to look back and remember those long ago moments.
I really enjoyed reading this, thanks for sharing.
Good story, hope you enjoy your stay!!
Looking forward to the FU story after your visit.
Love the old stories! Russell will be amazed at what he finds when he visits today! Hope JV can be there too. Enjoy!
Thank you Russell for sharing your photos and stories. Wow, are you in for a surprise! We are sure you will be amazed at how far Londolozi has come in 40 years! It is the passion and hard work of so many that has allowed Londolozi to blossom into the magical place!
Incredible story and fantastic images of what was to what I know Londolozi has become.
A glimpse into the past and the pictures tell the story. I love the “gearbox” caption and the composition of the last picture! I wonder if he remembers the camera he was using … perhaps an old Kodak Hawkeye?
You will see huge changes. We left SA in 1985 and didn’t get back to Londolozi until 2010. I was worried that the magic of Londolozi would be diminished by the ‘posh’ settings ( we always stayed in the original bush camp.). Trust me….it is still my favorite place on earth. Enjoy your return.
Great photo of staff transport
Just one question. Did you actually have a game drive that afternoon – at all? Super memories, Russell! Thank you so much! Wendy M
I remember when Londolozi and all bush holidays were like this. Wonderfully nostalgic photographs. Thank you Russell.
What wonderful memories and how great that you are going back. I have read Cathedral of the Wild and it is so interesting in many ways. We enjoy the results of those years of work and thought when we visit. Hope your visit is fantastic! Victoria
I can only imagine what things were like back then.