There’s something special about the thrill of tracking animals in the African bush. On this particular day, we set out on a drive with the goal of following tracks of the Kambula Pride that had been sighted the previous evening near camp. Lion movements through the night can be fickle and somewhat erratic so we knew that although they’d been right outside camp less than 12 hours ago, we could be in for a hard search.

Picking up the tracks was obviously fairly easy. The sun was still low on the horizon as we followed the lions’ tracks, etched like secrets in the road, guiding us forward. But then the sun climbed and the tracks seemed to stretch ever longer in front of us. And then a turn for the worse, literally; the tracks suddenly banked right and led toward a thick section of the Sand River.

But they were looking to be getting fresher and we felt we were up to the challenge. We followed as far as we could but soon came to an impenetrable impasse. My friend and tracker, Euce, climbed off the seat and with a wide grin said, “I’ll see you on the other side!” before marching confidently out of sight. We looped ahead and through one of my favourite places on the reserve, Taylor’s Crossing.

A spot that can take your breath away.

After pausing for a moment to take in the magic of that place we continued forward on our mission, anticipating the pride’s movements and that they’d pop out just about…. Here! However, a scan of the road indicated that our calculations must be wrong. That or they must still be in the river. And that’s when Euce’s voice rumbled through the airwaves with that best of news, “I’ve located!”

Now all we had ahead of us was the simple task of forging a road through 200m of dense woodland, sand and river. What could go wrong?

The path soon became as demanding as we expected. Large thorn trees and dense thickets crowded our way as if nature itself was guarding the lions’ sanctuary. But we were undeterred and methodically inched forward, peering ahead and trying to pick out some sort of accessible route. We carved our way through the undergrowth, the vehicle inching forward as we manoeuvred over uneven ground. But the vegetation soon gave way to sandy beach and only one small shallow channel stood in our way. We forded the stream with ease and emerged into a clearing by the river’s edge.

This cub playing in a matumi tree was the first we saw of them!

The scene before us was beyond what we’d dared to hope for. There, on a sandy stretch beside the water, lay the lions in all their glory. And as the mothers basked in the warm sunshine, several young cubs, each as curious as they were playful, gambolled through water, leapt onto branches and stumps and tackled each other into the soft yielding beach sand. Always testing their agility, darting from the water’s edge to the shade, tumbling over one another with an exuberance that only young animals know.

Excitable youngsters.

In the throws of a wrestling match.

Practice and play.

The cubs’ antics were mesmerizing. One cub crouched low in the sand, eyeing a sibling across the beach, only to leap forward in a playful pounce, sand scattering under tiny paws. Another padded down to the water, hesitating as the cool river lapped at its feet before daring a splash. Their mothers lay in the background, ever watchful but unbothered, letting their young ones play. Watching them, we became entranced by the ease of their lives here – free to roam, play, and learn in a landscape that has sustained them for generations.

Fording the river.

The riverbank became our theatre, the lions our actors, their play a dance between innocence and the strength they would grow into. As we observed, there was a moment when all sound seemed to fade, replaced by the pure beauty of the wild. The cubs’ exuberance felt like a gift from nature itself, reminding us of life’s simpler joys.

After a while, as if sensing they’d given us enough of their world, the pride began to rise. The mothers called softly, and the cubs obeyed, padding along behind, their adventure for the day seemingly complete. It was our signal, too, to start our journey back. The tracks we had followed, the path we had carved, all seemed to glow with a new purpose, and the thrill of the day stayed with us as we left the middle channel, knowing we had glimpsed something truly magical.

This leap went horribly wrong as the cub slipped out on landing but for a moment she soared!

A day like this at Londolozi isn’t just about the animals you see – it’s about the landscapes you navigate, the connections you feel, and the privilege of sharing the wild with creatures so powerful, so pure, that they remind you of the profound beauty that exists beyond the hustle of human life. We returned to camp not just as spectators of the wild, but as part of it, carrying with us memories of lions, cubs, and the untamed freedom that Londolozi so generously offers.