Working in camp at Londolozi, it’s hard to resist the urge to be out in the bush. Sure, we have our fair share of wildlife encounters inside the lodge fence – a curious hyena snooping around, our resident nyalas trimming the hedges, vervet monkeys stopping by for afternoon tea – and after all, we’re in their home.
Spend enough time on the main deck of Varty Camp, though, and you forget that you’re in camp at all: the panoramic view draws you in, the granite slabs in the riverbed reflecting the sunlight as the grasses sway in the breeze. It’s my favourite view at Londolozi. Here’s why.
In the dry weeks before the Sand River flowed into Londolozi, a familiar scene would play out almost every afternoon. Around five o’clock, on the cusp of the golden hour, Varty Deck would receive its daily visitors: a small herd of elephants, stopping by for an early dinner.
Each time these four elephants lumbered into view, I’d look up from whatever I was writing, put down the pen, and just watch them be.
When I first came to Londolozi, it was the leopards that took my breath away. They still do. But the more time I spent in and around the bush, the deeper a connection I feel with elephants, and the more they draw me in.
On a recent drive out into the reserve, I was sitting in the front seat of the Land Rover when a towering bull stepped into the road, stopping us in our tracks. We sat in amazed, gleeful silence as this gentle, giant animal checked us out with his gigantic trunk. I could feel my smile turning to laughter: this was what Boyd Varty describes as the feeling of full-body elation, of total fullness, that floods your system during a close-up encounter with an elephant and lingers long afterward. It’s about as magical and mystical as the bush can get.
It’s late afternoon now on Varty Deck, and the sun is bathing the granite riverbed in gold. I hear a low rumble reverberate through the bush and stop writing my blog post (this blog post) as the four elephants slowly approach the deck. One of them pierces the quiet with a staccato trumpet, startled by the warthogs running nearby.
As they munch their way toward me, I feel an ancient happiness well up inside me, especially when the inquisitive little one comes close; I have to suppress an intense yearning to hop down to ground level and reach out to rest my hand on its trunk. And as they walk on, heading east and out of sight, I’m left with a feeling of absolute peace.
We travel to see ourselves reflected through the prism of another culture. We go on safari to see ourselves reflected through the prism of another species.
It’s a beautiful, enlightening, spiritual experience.
And you don’t even have to leave the deck.
It is always one of the best experiences, watching elephants from the deck or from your room. It is amazing how quietly they move. Lovely blog Michael.
Lovely. One afternoon at Londolozi (I was the only guest with the ranger that day) I just sat on a granite boulder by the causeway and watched this family of elephants. It wasn’t the most dramatic of sightings but it just drew me in, amazing feeling. Spent hours doing this, when another Land Rover turned up, it almost spoilt the moment. The guests just saw three or four elephants, when the young girl looked slightly bored I pointed out the baby elephant that was very close – it made her day
Love the leopards, but an encounter with a single elephant is indeed magical and unforgettable!
Michael – this is an awesome blog – I like elephants too. We saw herd in Londolozi when I was there with my granddaughter and her parents, 2017.
A lovely blog Michael. Ellies are probably my favourite African animal. Just watching the young ones always gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. I love to watch the herd protecting the younguns and the other members from any perceived danger. They truly are intelligent and loving animals. Thank you for sharing with us.
All I can say is,.. WOW!! AMAZING!
This article makes my heart sing. Wishing I could sit amongst the gentle giants. Thank you.
Looks like I’ll take a wander to Varty Deck on my next trip…. love the Ellie’s….but then, I love all of the inhabitants of Londolozi!!
I can really identify with the feeling of sheer joy bubbling up inside in the presence of elephants. Whether laughter or tears… sheer joy.
Your article brings tears to my eyes as memories of that upwelling of ancient happiness floods my mind. Just being in the African bush at peace with the wildlife brings a feeling of utter contentment. Circumstances dictate that I can no longer be there but I remind myself that I have been privileged to have once lived there.
Michael –
Your description of full body elation took me back to our visit to Londolozi….thanks for sharing and reminding me of the feelings experienced in Africa.
Brian
Michael, Thanks for the reminder of the special connection we all have with the elephants. Terri is still a bit wary of the elephants after a huge male stopped by our vehicle several years ago riding with Byron to sniff her up and down! It was an encounter never to forget. We agree that the Varty deck is a wonderful place to immerse ourselves in the amazing surroundings of Londolozi!
There are three parts to my typical day at Londolozi: morning game drive, afternoon game drive, and wandering the path connecting Londolozi’s five camps in the hours between morning drive and game drive. On game drives I’m all about the big game, but I make more contemplative time for the smaller game during these mid-day walks— birds, butterflies, monitor lizards, tortoises, and those blue skinks you see all over Londolozi’s sidewalks. My last visit May 2018 I saw the resident Nyla’s and vervets around camp just as the author describes. The passing elephant herds past my deck is more of a memory of my first visit during the drought May 2016. Looking forward to a 3rd visit in May 2020.
Elephants are one of the most unique, intelligent, gentle, loyal and fierce aninals on earth. I love them and appreciate your shared experiences up close and personal…..I may turn green with envy! Lol….