“Going on a photo-safari, being within touching distance of some of the most majestic animals in the world is an experience beyond description. If you decide to visit South Africa, you might want to consider visiting one of the most exclusive game preserves in the world, Londolozi. As you’ll see, it’s a magical destination where guests are treated to an experience that will literally change their lives forever.” – News Watch

Londolozi Game Reserve was host to the crew from News Watch TV a few weeks ago. Spending time in the wilderness, lodges as well as in the Londolozi Learning Centre, the below video is currently being featured across North America on News Watch TV. Enjoy…

If you enjoyed this video, please share it via one of the following social networks below.

A Taste of South Africa
A Sarasota group discovers wild beauty and sophisticated cuisine on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

Deep in the African bush, more than wildlife is stirring. Safari camps like Londolozi in the Sabi Sand private game reserve are leading South Africa’s quest to become an international culinary destination. Chefs, like trackers and rangers, are rewarded for daring and creativity—and for rising to the daunting challenge of white-glove, gourmet service in the wild. What’s cooking is a culinary revolution, and right there on the front lines this past summer was Sarasota’s Michael Klauber of Michael’s On East and the Gulf Coast Connoisseur Club.

The Connoisseur Club on Safari at Londolozi

An epicurean adventurer who has led food trips all around the world, Klauber shepherded 27 Connoisseur Club guests to the luxurious yet astonishingly eco-friendly Londolozi reserve. The founders of the property, brothers Dave and John Varty, say they named Londolozi for a word in the Zulu dictionary that means “protector of all living things.”

“It was the trip of a lifetime. In five days, the staff and the wildlife touched our souls—we’re connected forever,” says Klauber. “The guides post photos of the four lion cubs we followed on safari so everyone on our trip can watch them grow.”

“The highlight of our trip was meeting Dave Varty. I’ve read his book, Circle of Life, and John’s book, Nine Lives,” adds Terri Klauber, Michael’s wife and co-host of 10 Connoisseur Club gourmet trips in the past eight years. “They’re untouched in eco-tourism and their commitment to bringing the bush back to its original landscape.”

Because the Sarasota group included six children, they stayed at the five-star property’s family-friendly Varty camp on the owner’s original family homestead. Every room had a private swimming pool framed by a timber deck overlooking the bush. Living spaces are raised off the ground and decorated in the style of the original Varty home. “Everyone felt a spiritual connection to Londolozi, and no one left without crying, not even the kids,” Terri says.

The Final Evening in the Varty Camp Boma

Klauber says six months of work went into planning dinners and wine events for his Connoisseur Club guests, including a surprise visit by award-winning Marc Kent, a founding partner of Boekenhoutskloof winery who brought in wines for two dinners and joined the group for game drives—the South African’s first safari.

In the process of creating menus with Londolozi’s executive chef, Craig Paterson, Klauber discovered that South Africa doesn’t really have a cuisine of its own. “It’s a layering of flavors and a melting pot of ethnic recipes from Malaysia, India, and Morocco,” Klauber explains. Indeed, Cape Town, South Africa, was founded by the Dutch East India Company, which used the port city as its restocking station for ships traveling between Europe and Asia in the 17th century. Dutch settlers imported Malay slaves to the Cape, and with them indigenous spices. Later, immigrants from England, Germany and Scandinavia followed, and more slaves from Indonesia, Madagascar and India.

Each ethnic group contributed to the culinary legacy that inspires modern South African cuisine. “There’s a mix of curries, chutneys and Eastern spices—cardamom, ginger, garlic—and Africa’s most famous ones: saffron, cumin, turmeric and nutmeg. But the food isn’t hot: South African food is aromatically spiced,” Klauber explains. Klauber and Jamil Pineda, head chef at Michael’s On East, have created a South African three-course dinner duplicating classic recipes provided by Londolozi’s chef Paterson. While Pineda and Paterson collaborated on ingredients and technique, Klauber’s role was taster.

“It was a challenge to recreate Craig’s recipes. They have different equipment than we do, and their measurements are different. I had to taste each dish until we got it right. And we did! Everyone who took the trip with us has come to the restaurant for our South African dinners, and they say we’re spot on,” Michael says

Diners, who range from those who have gone on safari to a “surprising” number of South Africans living in Sarasota, says Klauber, wax poetic about menu items like kingklip, a South African fish reminiscent of halibut, or sosaties, classic marinated lamb kabobs with dried apricots, and South Africa’s national dish, bobotie, a baked minced beef curry pie reminiscent of shepherd’s pie but with custard topping. Every dish represents a fusion of cultures, including beef samosas, the crispy beef pie made from Malay-spiced ground sirloin and served with plum chutney. Meals are finished with desserts like malva pudding and Londolozi crunchies, a cookie the Klaubers relished on game drive breaks.

One of the many leopards seen during the Safari

For those who shared last summer’s trip, the mere mention of those crunchies awakens memories of magnificent wildlife sightings, bush barbecues and dinners in the Londolozi Boma (a braai, or barbecue area, enclosed by rustic wooden poles and open to the sky). One night, the chefs sang Pavarotti and the guides serenaded Terri with I Will Remember You. “There wasn’t a dry eye in the place,” remembers Michael. “The music and camaraderie we all experienced that night were magical.”

Original Article by Carol Tisch
Photographs by: Michael & Terri Klauber

Dear Friends,

Over the last few days a large amount of bad weather has moved through from the Mozambican Coast covering much of the Kruger National Park in heavy rain. Certain parts of the Kruger have experienced flooding and here at Londolozi the river levels have risen substantially since the beginning of the week. This map provided by the Naval Research Laboratory give an indication as to the weather patterns.

Visuals Courtesy of the Naval Research Authority

The Londolozi management wish to reassure our current and soon-to-be visiting guests that the situation is under control. All guests and staff are safe. We are maintaining a holding position until the heavy rains have passed. According to weather predictions we are anticipating being fully operational by 20th January. We would encourage that no guests should consider arriving tomorrow (19th January) but rather plan to arrive 20th January. We will continue to update our blog should the situation change.

Any arriving guests who wish to contact Londolozi regarding their reservation should email: reservations@londolozi.co.za

Sincerely,

The Londolozi Management

A brand new electric Land Rover arrived at Londolozi over Christmas. Courtesy of Barker Performance Products and Land Rover, the electric vehicle was sent here to be put through a rigorous and rough field test owing to the success and pioneering development of Londolozi’s first three prototype electric Land Rovers. Having unveiled this new product at South Africa’s Tourism Indaba in May, Land Rover and Barkers Performance product have created a hugely impressive vehicle and when it arrived on our doorstep just before Christmas, we simply had to put it to the test!

Putting the Electric Land Rover to the test - Rich Laburn

Although we are testing the vehicle over a number of weeks, we decided to examine the performance through a few different disciplines: Acceleration & Speed; Gradient; Silence and Sand.

The Electric Landrover runs off an Air cooled AC Induction Motor with 330Nm of Torque and 59kW of Motor Power.  The batter is comprised of Air cooled Lithium Phosphate and has a voltage of 300V.  Ranging from 80km per battery on the open road and +20km through a game reserve, the vehicle is able to offer a game drive of approximately 8 hours.  The gear stick features Drive, Neutral and Reverse with 4WD and Low Range.

Land Rover's Electric Game Viewer

Londolozi has been at the forefront of pioneering the first ever Zero Emissions Safari Vehicle. The vision for this vehicle is to run purely on battery power which in turn is charged by solar panels. The carbon output would thus be zero, except for that used during the manufacturing of the vehicle.  Since 2009, when we unveiled our first prototype electric Landrover, the journey has been extremely fun yet also challenging. Our second prototype burnt down soon after completion, owing to an electric failure.  Yet with the help of Anton Komar and Sid from Green Rover we managed to achieve a reasonable level of success with our prototype number 3.

The Electric Land Rover going through Water - Rich Laburn

Our intention at Londolozi is to continue to be a leader towards a truly Zero Emissions Safari Vehicle and change our entire fleet to electric vehicles as soon as the opportunity presents itself.  This initiative, in particular, forms part of our broader goal to dramatically minimize our carbon footprint on the environment.

Written & Filmed & Photographed by: Rich Laburn

New Years Eve is one of the biggest events on the Londolozi calendar and this past year was no exception.  Paying tribute to the original pioneers of Londolozi, Charles Boyd Varty and Frank Unger, who purchased the land (sight unseen) after a tennis match in Johannesburg back in 1926 – this years theme was ’1926 Tennis’.  Donning white shorts and tennis miniskirts, the Londolozi family and our treasured guests enjoyed a spectacular evening which, in true Londolozi style, included many Gin n’ Tonics as well as numerous glasses of Moet Champagne.

One of the original trophies won by Maidie Varty in her tennis career. It is, of course, surrounded by numerous jugs of Pimms Cocktails

The Varty Camp deck was the venue for the evening and with her usual flair for excellence, Alex Paterson did a spectacular job of turning this elegant family camp into a tennis themed ‘Center Court’. Fairy lights were strung above the dance floor and illuminated the big white walls, adorned with images of the early Pioneers in their heyday.

The New Years Eve Dinner Setup just before the Guests arrived

Tennis Balls, Candles and Moet Bubbly

Clearly the Londolozi family were intent on getting into the spirt of the evening and arrived dressed to the nines. From short and sexy to clean cut white to Rex Miller (who came dressed as an actual Dunlop Tennis Ball) the relaxed and fun tone of the evening was set from early on.

The Londolozi Camp Managers and Butlers Getting in Full New Years Dress

Rex dressed up as a tennis ball, James as a tennis racquet and Sean as the Baseline

Our Executive Chef, Craig Paterson, provided an outstanding 6 course meal which began with West Coast Oyster Canapes followed by Tomato Gaspazio and Duck Liver Parfait. For the main course he dazzled with Crayfish Tails with Lamb Rack shortly after. His dessert was a selection of treats such as Chocolate Brownies, Meringues as well as Strawberries and Cream!

Guests enjoying Executive Chef, Craig Paterson's, New Years Dinner Menu

Kirsty collecting another round of Gin n Tonics

And…in the tradition of last year’s New Year Video, here is a one minute snapshot of the evening from the Photobooth. Enjoy!

Photographed by: Rich Laburn
Video Photographs by: Funbooth

It’s New Years Day 2012 and here at Londolozi we wish you all a very prosperous and absolutely brilliant year ahead.  2011 was mind-blowing throughout Londolozi and much of it was reflected right here on the blog.

Right from the beginning of the year we knew that the pride dynamics were going to be interesting to observe, the new leopards fascinating to watch and of course much of the Londolozi family amusing to observe.

So without further ado, here are our Top posts from 2011:

Lion Cub Saved by Mother

It’s interesting and amusing to note that one of the most popular stories we featured in 2011 did not actually take place at Londolozi.  This tale, expertly photographed by Jean-Francois Largot, tells the story of a young lion cub in the Masaai Mara who is rescued by his mother after falling off the edge of a cliff.  High drama and emotion surrounded this post with a plethora.  Sent to me by Dave Varty, it was a point of much bragging as this popular post occupied the spot of ‘Most Visitors in 1 Day’ on the blog for a couple of months.

Canon vs Nikon: Which is Better?

So many photographers love to discuss this topic and when an interesting info graphic was published online, it was an apt illustration of the very subtleties of this topic.  Although I think that both manufactures produce outstanding cameras, brand loyal enthusiasts tend to disagree according to their predilection of photographic equipment.  If you want to see who wins, go and take a look for yourself.

The Valentines Rush

Another Valentines Day, another crazy Valentines Video featuring the all star Londolozi Ranging Team.  Desperate to win the heart of the femme fatale, the ranging and tracking team fight amongst themselves for the single rose.  An action packed race through the bush and with each other, this video features not only the good looking areas on the Londolozi property, but also the good looking fellas in the Londolozi ranging and tracking team.  Filmed in slow motion…it’s a riot…

5 Month of Lion Cub Survives 5 Weeks Alone

The drama of the Tsalala pride has been an emotional roller coaster.  Keyboards around the world have been destroyed owing to the litres of tears shed over the lives of this incredible pride and their beloved cubs.  The offspring of the Majingilane Coalition, this pride signals a new era of lion dominance in Londolozi and their tales reflect all of the hardship, struggles and success which epitomize the life of Africa’s most noble creature.  In this post, we tell the story of how one of the younger Tsalala pride cubs survived 5 weeks alone, isolated from the pride.  Having been separated during an attack by a clan of hyenas and later reuniting with the pride, this story if worthy of a Hollywood epic.

Buffalo Escapes Death – Attacks Lions

These relentless enemies are constantly at battle with one another.  Usually we feature the lions as the victors, however in this astonishing post this buffalo bull regains strength after a number of hours and manages to escape from the lion’s claws of death.  An amazing tale of resilience, never giving up and fighting against all the odds.  The video is most certainly not for the faint hearted!

Movember at Londolozi

“At Londolozi we chose to not only raise awareness for men’s health by supporting the Movember tradition, but also took the opportunity to raise some funds for a cause closer to home – the Madlala High School.  By the end of Movember, some interesting styles had emerged – each with a fitting name.”  This was, without a doubt, one of the most hilarious posts we have published on the blog.  Profiling each of the Londolozi Mo-Bros and the famous counterparts provided some interesting comparisons to figures in history both living and dead.

The Lions: Majingilane Coalition

The notorious bad boys of Londolozi and surrounding properties, the Majingilane Coalition have been on the tips of everyone’s tongue this past year.  From their violent and aggressive behavior to their total dominance over the Tsalala and Sparta Prides, this post profiles each of the 4 males and provides some more insight into the history, behavior and activities of these infamous beasts.  Dark Maned Male, Scar Nosed Male, Hip Scar Male and Golden Mane Male are now also the stars of their very own short documentary which is scheduled from release on the Londolozi Blog in January 2012.  The trailer will be out soon, so stay tuned!!!!

The Week in Pictures

The brainchild and product of our very own ranger (and photographic guru) Talley Smith.  The Week in Pictures is a firm favourite amongst many readers of the blog.  Published every Friday of the week – the Week in Pictures showcases the best stories and images of the week photographed by Talley whilst out on game drive with her guests.  This amazing series has provided snapshots into the lives of many of the animals which call Londolozi their home and has also presented the world with Talley’s beautiful images. Click on the link above to see the full list of all the Week in Pictures since she began earlier this year.

The Leopards of Londolozi

What would every Wednesday be without a regular update about Londolozi’s most beloved and iconic animal – The Leopard.  David Dampier does a great job in showing and telling us the happenings of many of the well known Leopards of Londolozi in this weekly blog post featuring his stunning Leopard images.  Regular characters include the Vomba Female, Marthly Male, Camp Pan Male, Vomba Young Female, Maxabene Brothers, Tutlwa Female and the Nyeleti Siblings.  These enigmatic and elusive (well not so much at Londolozi) creatures never fail to delight, especially in the eyes of one of our best photographers, David ‘Doyle’ Dampier.

The Grand Lady, Varty Camp Refurbished

Varty Camp is the heart and home of Londolozi, the crucible from which the campfire has burned for over four generations and eighty five years. Fusing family, tradition and specialist photographic safaris, the newly refurbished Varty Camp offers one of the best value for money safari experiences in South Africa.  This camp is all about tradition, laughter and storytelling. From sipping an ice-cold Pimms on the Varty deck, gazing out into 18 000 hectares of exclusive traversing to sitting around a boma campfire and listening to stories of the past, Varty Camp has a tangible feeling of soul, place and a sense of essence.  Check out the Varty Camp video and view some of the images from the stunning makeover this camp received earlier on in 2011.  If you would like to enquire about staying at this beautiful camp, send us a message by CLICKING HERE

The Best Photographic Equipment to Bring on Safari

If there is one item that you must bring on your trip to Londolozi, it is a digital camera.  No matter what your budget or level of skill is, the beauty of photography allows anybody to be an artist.  For many individuals coming on safari, they have no idea which equipment they should include in their packing and what type of camera to bring along.  This post proved to be particular popular as it offers a factual breakdown of effective camera bodies, lenses and other accessories across a wide variety of price ranges.  One thing is for sure though, if you are coming on safari to Londolozi you MUST bring your camera with you!

Winter Calendar 2011

“The best time to explore the Eastern Lowveld of South Africa is in the cool dry months of May to September”
Charles Boyd Varty – April 1926”

The Londolozi Winter Calendar is now entering its 6th year in 2012.  This past year saw another incredible winter with myriad activities, incredible sightings and beautifully lazy days in the balmy lowveld weather.  To get a better understanding, take a look at the Winter Calendar Video in the above blog post.  In the same vein as our 2011 Winter Calendar we are offering a special value add for the months of May and June 2012:  Book 3 nights or more at any of the Londolozi lodges in May or June and get two nights free in Cape Town paid for by Londolozi.  In Cape Town you will be staying at some of the finest boutique hotels in Cape Town such as Colona Castle, Welgelegen, Mannabay and Kensington Place.  To find out more about this special: CLICK HERE

Camp Pan and Dudley 5:5 Come to Blows

Two of Londolozi’s biggest male leopards battle with one another in this spectacular video blog.  Captured by Londolozi guests and myself, this event was truly one of the most incredible sightings I have had the privilege of witnessing in the wild.  Add to the sighting the Vomba 3:2 Female, the Marthly Male, a lone hyena and you get a high action video which shows the real drama behind the battle for territorial dominance amongst leopards.  The ferocity with which these two animals fight each other is truly humbling, frightening and awe inspiring at the same time.

We would love to hear from you which your favorite post has been over this last year.  Any suggestions are welcome in addition to the posts I have presented above.  Here’s to another fantastic year on the Londolozi Blog, all of which would not be possible were it not for you our loyal readers and visitors to Londolozi.  Thank You!

Rich

The Rangers and Trackers were randomly divided into two teams; these teams would compete against each other in the inaugural ‘Boerewors Week‘. A week set aside in the busy calendar year to strengthen partnerships, morale, improve skills, increase banter and have great fun amongst work colleagues. All done to shape this already superb field guiding team into a exceptional unit.

The reward of each days hard work was getting to eat boerewors rolls out in the bush

Over the duration of a week the teams competed for points in a variety of exercises. Points were awarded for an event victory and team-mate participation. Activities included: Rifle practice, birding, branch cutting, first aid training, walking scenarios, photography, scavenger hunts and of course no week at Londolozi is complete without a Touch Rugby game…an explosion of colour and speed.

Refreshing the skills and techniques required for CPR in the First Aid program

Armed with machetes, cutting overhanging branches off the roads - boys will be boys

Rifle training for the Trackers

Solly Mhlongo ready to start his rapid firing task

Ranger Jess Boon showed the boys how its done

Jerry Hambana takes aim with Byron looking on. If Jerry ever misses a shot he has 3 knives on his belt to finish off the job.

Vivid colours and outfits graced the touch rugby field. A shot of the two teams before battle. Please take special notice our Head Ranger, Chris Goodman who is lying in the front!

The highlight of each day however was that as the sun started setting the two teams would head out and link up at a random spot in the bush armed with a braai grid, a cooler box of drinks, rolls and lots of boerewors. Around a campfire each night we would tell stories, make fun of each other, laugh, discuss strategies, techniques and opinions. A sharing of knowledge. Years of experience combined under starry African skies…It’s a tough job that someone has to do!

Day 1: Our first braai of 'Boerewors Week' was had in the beautiful Tugwaan Drainage

A hard day spent at the rifle range

Day 2: Team shot in the Maxabeni riverbed

Yet another superb way to end the day. A Boerewors Braai on the top of Ximpalapala Koppie

The reward after the last afternoon of cutting branches...ice cold beers

As for which of the two teams walked away with the title…well there is still a little bit of debate on the matter! It was a huge success; grounding everyone, putting us all out in the bush, getting us dirty and on a level playing field…clearing the mind for the very busy festive season ahead.

The Londolozi Field Team would like to thank Marius from Vleisland in Hazeyview for very kindly donating the greatest boerewors in the lowveld. Your generosity was much appreciated!

Written and photographed by Adam Bannister

You’ve heard of Batman and Superman, even Spiderman.
Now meet Elmon the Ecoman, whose sharp eyes guided us through the wonderland of Londolozi.
My wife Lynn and I hadn’t stayed at Londoz since I was Sky News’ resident Africa Correspondent 17 years ago.
Now we know what we’ve been missing all these years! Super-tracker Elmon Mhlongo and ranger, James Hobson, ensured it was an unforgettable return. Three days of superlative safari.

Jeremy Thompson at Londolozi's Pioneer Camp with Ranger, James, and Butler, Phanuel

Like Charlize Theron’s colourist, I’ll just pick out the highlights. Leopards, of course. We’ve been in the bush enough to know what a rare privilege it is to see these amazing predators. But five sightings in three days, all in broad daylight and all of them memorable. That is special!

There was the father who wouldn’t let his daughter get a sniff of his impala, which she’d killed. Boy is she going to have parental abandonment issues when she grows up! He even dragged the devoured and deflated carcass away so she couldn’t get near it. Luckily, we saw her sneak up the bank and snaffle one small filet mignon left behind by mean old dad.

Leopard dragging kill whilst Londolozi guests look on - James Hobson

We watched in fascination as a young female leopard patiently stalked a waddle of waterbuck (sorry we got into finding the silliest collective noun for all the game we saw) – only to find they turned and faced her down like a grumpy Boks rugby team staring out an All Black haka. She looked very taken aback.

One morning coffee stop by a waterhole had to be abandoned because a very handsome male had got there first and was watching us with curiosity from atop his termite mound. He then stretched and strolled down to lap up some water just feet in front of us.

Leopard drinking at a pan - James Hobson

What great sights we saw – wallowing rhino, waddling muddy hippos, a green-backed heron giving a frog a severe headache, large herds of wildebeest, buffalo and zebra.

We hardly dared to breathe for half an hour as we watched three female lions stealthily track a kudu only to be outwitted just yards from their breakfast.

Then there were the babies. A delightful young family of elephants playing in the riverbed below our deck in Pioneer, lion cubs resting on ball of elephant dung (cuter than it sounds) and sweet little hyena pups peering out of their den. Lynn’s thinking of launching a re-branding campaign for hyenas. We love them. But she thinks they get a really bad rap, almost certainly down to The Lion King’s villainous portrayal of hyenas as Scar’s scheming chums.

Little Hyena pocking their heads out of the den - James Hobson

As for the night drives, hawk-eyed Elmon spotted us a marvellous view of a genet lying along a branch, as well picking out of the darkness a boomslang and several chameleons hiding in the trees.
Anyway that’s all the Breaking Gnus from me.
We had a brilliant time and we’ll be back.

Elmon Mhlongo

In fact, after enjoying around 100 safaris across Africa over the last 20 years, Lynn and I reckon those three days at Londolozi was one of our greatest ever bush experiences.
Thanks to all of you for making it so memorable.

Written by: Jeremy Thompson (Londolozi Guest)

In mid December each year a Soccer match is played as a curtain raiser to the Staff Christmas Party. The well know Londolozi Leopards; our very own established football team consisting of butlers, gardeners, and trackers take on the make-shift team nicknamed the Londolozi Hyenas… to call the Hyenas a Soccer/Football team is a huge overstatement. It is basically a collection of as many unfit rangers, camp managers and accountants as can be thrown together on the day. The Hyenas are then supplemented by any other staff member who is capable of kicking a ball. It’s an exhibition match that gets the staff in a joyous mood as they all flock to the sidelines of the field to cheer the two teams on.

The Londolozi Leopards

The Londolozi Hyenas

What the game lacks in skill and flare it makes up in passion and effort. Even though it is a game that has no meaning at all…there is the major factor of bragging rights. It’s a David vs. Goliath event and played in great spirits! This year for the first time in decades the motley bunch of untrained, uncoordinated Hyenas managed to beat the Leopards in a high scoring game.

The Londolozi Leopards...a well oiled unit of players

The whooping sounds of Hyena Fans could be heard throughout the 60 minute match. We ran in circles around the field chasing the Leopards back and forth; our bodies not quite what they used to be. The final score of 6 – 4 is evidence of the very open nature of the game. It was anyones for the taking. The game included wonderful moments of sportsman ship, passion, aggression, brilliance, laughter and comedy…it even included a staff member streaking across the field.

Goalkeeper and Head Ranger Chris Goodman had a great game in goals...even if he was using boxing gloves!

After the final whislte was blown the Hyenas held their hands up in victory…no one at Londolozi can remember the Leopards being beaten. Gracious in defeat, the Leopards joined the Hyenas and the fans at the village for the christmas celebrations that would continue into the early hours…

If only Byron were a little faster...

...and Boyd Varty slots it home from about 3 meters out...skyrocketed into the back of the net. We won't mention that his eyes were closed and he nearly missed the ball.

Chaos in the Hyena's goalmouth

Goal celebrations for the Hyenas

Well done to both teams on a fantastic match and thanks to all the spectators for the support.

Written by Adam Bannister
Photography by Jill Mason

The photography bug really has taken hold of everyone here at Londolozi. Here we feature something a little bit different from pictures taken by our talented guiding team. Instead we show off some of the work taken by our newest up and coming photographer…one of our most talented trackers Jerry Hambana.

Jerry was very kindly given a camera and has taken it upon himself to begin learning how to master the numerous intricacies of photography. During the day one can often find him approaching the rangers quizzing them about ISO, white balance, aperture and how to improve his composition. Alternatively he will be sitting outside his house polishing his shoes, reading numerous field guides or brushing up on the soccer news.

As his teammate Tom Imrie has said time and time again, Jerry is the most wonderful, kind and well natured man in the world!

“I’ve written before about Jerry’s specialness as a person and I frequently introduce him to guests as the nicest person on the planet. Spending as much time as I do with Jerry is a privilege and I’ve subconsciously added him to my shrinking list of close friends.” – Tom Imrie

Together Tom and Jerry have formed one of the most potent and entertaining guiding teams in Africa.

It is wonderful to view some moments through the eyes of one of Londolozi’s trackers. Scenes from both out in the bush and back home in the community. It comes as a breathe of fresh air to watch a man from a completely different background embrace his newly found passion for photography and want to learn more. I feel especially lucky to be able to view a couple of portraits taken by Jerry of his family…to just briefly be allowed to step into the life of another.

To spend time in the bush learning from Jerry is a privilege and one that I leap at, at any opportunity. It is something I am incredibly thankful for. When he approached me the other day asking me to help him in storing and backing up his collection of photographs I was more then ready to teach him and help him about how to copy and paste, moves files and burn dvds…it is the least I can do for a man who has been through so much and is still eager to give so much of himself to any who is willing to listen.

Camp Pan Male Leopard

Giraffes silhouetted by the fading afternoon sun

Leopard descending tree

Wild Dogs stretching after a successful afternoon hunt

Lions in the midst of a feeding frenzy

Leopard with kill

Photograph of Jerry's late grandmother at her house in Mozambique

A family gathering to celebrate the life and the passing of his grandmother

Photograph taken on the day that Life Sibuyi's brother 'graduated' to become a traditional healer

Portrait of Life Sibuyi (back row, right) and his brother (back row, centre) during the celebrations

Photography by Jerry Hambana
Written by Adam Bannister

“During November each year, the Movember (Moustache- November) is responsible for the sprouting of moustaches on thousands of men’s faces around the world. The aim is to raise vital funds and awareness for men’s health, specifically cancer.”

At Londolozi we chose to not only raise awareness for men’s health by supporting the Movember tradition, but also took the opportunity to raise some funds for a cause closer to home – the Madlala High School. On Movember the 1st, the ‘Mo Bros’ of Londolozi paid their entrance fees, to be donated to the Madlala High School, and began grooming and trimming their unique moustaches.

Now…picking a moustache style is no mean feat. Not only do you have to sport something original yet fashionable, but there is also the added dimension of  “growth curveballs” which can have some unexpected side effects on the development of a man’s moustache.  By the end of Movember, some interesting styles had emerged – each with a fitting name:

Steve Siegel: The “Pablo Behind-the-Bar”
Named after the Columbian drug lord Pablo Escobar. Our resident bar manager seemed less concerned about moustachery as he was about embracing his character in full. Staff members all agreed he was getting a little carried away when he paid his Movember entrance fee in a black plastic bag, simply marked “For the cheeldrin- regards, Pablo”.

Steve Siegel - The Pablo Behind the Bar

Chris Goodman: The “Duran Duran”
Named after the famous boxer Roberto Duran. Initially Chris set out to grow the “David Boon” sadly however, he was hit square in the face by a growth curveball (or lack thereof) and had to change tactics to a style with a little less volume. Having just purchased a boxing bag and gloves to match, Chris was not overly disappointed in his new character and could often be seen running around the soccer field wearing a hoodie singing “the eye of robertooooooooo” at the top of his voice.

Chris Goodman - The Duran Duran

Mike Miller: The “Delfuago”
Classic Biker Handle bar moustache. Mike started slipping into this character months ago by continually wearing vests around camp and sporting leather jackets on leave. It was a natural transition when he finally had the handle bars to match.

Mike Miller - The Delfuago

Rich Ferrier: The “Earl Hicky”
Named after the lead character from the popular series “My name is Earl”. Coincidently the comedy series is based on the lead character Earl paying off his debt to society. Very fitting indeed.

Rich Ferrier - The Earl Hickey

James Tyrrell: The “Swamp thing”
Named after the pilot from the movie Con Air. James was visibly and audibly disgusted with his assigned name and stormed out of the office muttering “How come Rex Miller gets to be Robert Redford? Naught, this is way unfair”.  We thought about letting him argue his point but after comparing the images below, we felt he had no leg to stand on.

James Tyrrell - The Swamp Thing

Dean Smithyman: The “Purple Cobra”
Named after the lead Character White Goodman in the movie “Dodgeball”. When asked why he had gone for this particular style he replied “Mens health and supporting our future generation’s education is pretty important and we all need to take the bull by the horns…..literally……it’s a metaphor…but this one really happened.”

Dean Smithyman - The Purple Cobra

Lucien Beaumont: The “Hulk Hogan”
Similar to the “Delfuago” (see Mike Miller) except blonde and with more volume. Lucien used his natural growth areas beautifully here to produce an almost unrivalled volume display.

Lucien Beaumont - The Hulk Hogan

Daniel Buys: The “Bieber”
Named after the teenage heart throb Justin Bieber. Members initially felt guilty for assigning a style that so openly mocked a Mo Bro’s inability to get solid growth, but when Dan’s girlfriend walked into his room and saw him practising the Bieber flick in front of the mirror singing “I’ve got the fever, I’ve got the Bieber fever” all sympathies went out the back door.

Dan Buys - The Bieber

Sean Carter: The “Tom Selleck”
It’s just a pure volume game here. This style was made famous by the 1990′s series “Magnum PI”, maybe one day someone will call it the “Sean Carter”.

Sean Carter - The Tom Selleck

Byron Serrao: The “Reese Feldman”
Named after the lead antagonist in the Movie “Starsky and Hutch”. When asked why he had chosen this style, Byron’s response was an emphatic “I am to the Reese Feldman like seafood is to a good white wine on a tropical beach somewhere, besides, I’m a bit of a gangster myself….”.

Byron Serrao - The Reese Feldman

James Hobson: The “Mark Lievremont”
A style synonymous with the French National Rugby Coach, quite fitting when one considers James’s passion for touch rugby. Once, when asked if he was the best rugby player in the Sabi Sands he replied matter-of-factly “Probably not the Sabi Sands, but definitely Londolozi”…sorry John Holley.

James Hobson - The Mark Lievremont

Rex Miller: The “Sundance Kid”
Named after Robert Redford in “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid”. When asked about his chosen style Rex replied “I was a little disappointed I couldn’t get the required growth to be Paul Newman, but I guess I’d rather be Robert Redford than the Swamp thing”. This remark did nothing for James Tyrrell’s jealously issues.

Rex Miller - The Sundance Kid

Wade Williams: The “Che Guevara”
When asked his thoughts on this style, members realised Wade had actually put some thought into growing his mo, “Not only are we going to revolutionise the way we raise funds for Madlala, but also the way we view our health, I have already stopped smoking cigars”. At least somebody hasn’t lost sight of the cause.

Wade Williams - The Che Guevara

Adam Bannister: The “Hetfield”
Named after James Hetfield, co-founder of the heavy metal band Metallica. This is clearly Adam projecting his childhood dream of becoming a rock star. He still shudders as he recalls his audition as a teenager to become a lead guitarist in a heavy metal band when he was told offhandedly “The auditions for Simply Red are down the hall”. We are all pleased Adam finally got to express himself, even if it was in monochrome ginger.  Be sure to monitor his musical prowess in a Londolozi boma near you.

Adam Bannister - The Hetfield

David Dampier: The “Dave Varty”
Named after Dave Varty of Londolozi. When asked why he was sporting this particular style Doyle commented “You don’t just sprout a Dave Varty 80’s moustache over night, you have to grow into it’s character. There’s a certain charm and charisma to this style that says, I’m a businessman, but I could track and find a pride of lions if I chose to…And I like that…Besides we have the same name anyway, we’re practically brothers”. Dave Varty was unavailable for comment.

David Dampier - The Dave Varty

Tom Imrie: The “Merv Hughes”
Named after the charismatic Australian cricketer who opened the bowling for his national side in the 1990′s. Merv Hughes is still revered today as one of the game’s greatest sledgers and Tom was very pleased with this persona. Under much duress, our blog team finally agreed to post Tom’s picture in black and white in order to draw a more reasonable parallel to Merv after Tom’s growth came out unexpectedly orange.

Tom Imrie - The Merv Hughes

Jimmy Marshall: The “Chuck Norris”
Jimmy Marshall grew a moustache at the age of 18……seconds. Not many candidates are able to pull the “Chuck Norris” off, but after 25 years of Londolozi Bomas we decided in a strange twist of irony that Chuck Norris in fact wears the “Jimmy Marshall”.

Jimmy Marshall - The Chuck Norris

As of today, the 30th November, the Londolozi Rangers along with donations from staff and guests have raised over R 3000 for the Madlala High School. To find out more about the Madlala High School and the work that the Good Work Foundation is doing, be sure to Like their Facebook Page to receive the news updates.

The Londolozi 'Mo Bros'

Let us know in the comments section below who you think best resembles their accompanying picture, we are looking forward to hearing your thoughts and comments.

John Varty (JV) is an acclaimed wildlife filmmaker, conservationist, musician, author and one of the founders of Londolozi Game Reserve. He has dedicated his life to the conservation of Big Cats, most notably the leopard. During the 70′s, 80′s and 90′s JV’s wildlife films drew attention and awareness to the beauty, behaviour and lives of these phenomenal cats of which Londolozi is proudly home to. JV’s most recent film, Leopard Queen, is currently being screened on Nat Geo Wild and features two decades worth of footage of the famed Londolozi leopard ‘3:4‘. In this the fifth of a series of interviews with John Varty, he talks openly about 3:4′s life, behaviour and her phenomenal life as a Leopards of Londolozi.

It’s been 5 years and at last we are DONE! Every camp at Londolozi has been refurbished, with the final phase being the complete overhaul of Varty Camp, whose roots go back as far as 1926. Reintroducing this “grand old lady” to our guests in March this year was a huge privilege. Varty Camp has enjoyed remarkable occupancies, tremendous support and amazing feed back from our industry partners, who seem to have really embraced the simplicity, tradition and return to old bushveld elegance that this Original Londolozi Camp offers.

The Brand New Varty Camp Deck

It continues to amaze us how our friends in the trade, and our extended Londolozi family, have responded to the improvements that have been made and continue to support all of our camps with strong bookings and many repeat visits. We extend to you all our sincere thanks and we assure you of our continued commitment to further improving the overall Londolozi experience.

It is because of this support that we have been able to push new frontiers in redefining the Londolozi Conservation Development Model. During 2012 we plan to actively engage with South African rural society in advancing green frontiers via the creation of Wildlife Corridors. These Corridors will link together the existing parks along ancient migratory roots, whilst allowing the economic benefits of the Economy of Wildlife to reach the wider rural community.

The dream is to not only restore nature’s original grand design but also to provide economic, ecological and social stimulus for over 600 000 people who live in the region where this Corridor is being planned.

Kruger to Canyons

In association with the Good Work Foundation, an NGO affiliated to Londolozi, we are in the process of establishing “leap frog” Digital Learning Centres along these corridors with an objective of addressing the needs of young learners and offering them a unique and new perspective to education, one which has never before been seen in South Africa.

Through the Good Work Foundation’s 4 Pillars of Literacy, enrolling students are invited to make the personal choice to equip themselves for a rapidly changing future such that they are able to participate in a modern African society with global reach, whilst also caring for the functionality and viability of their family.

The Learning Centres are founded on three core beliefs; the importance of ancient African wisdom; the quantum possibilities of technology and the enduring intelligence of nature. The vision is to redefine rural education and close the digital divide in rural Africa. Pioneering stuff with thrilling results!  Be sure to visit and Like the Good Work Foundation’s Facebook Page for regular updates.

An early Christmas, courtesy of the Good Work Foundation, at the Madlala Digital Learning Center

Therefore, as 2011 draws to a close, we look forward to embracing 2012 with the dawning of a new era, meaningful partnerships with our neighbours, the building of quantum “leap frog” Digital Learning Centres across South Africa and continued strong associations with our travel partners around the world.

What remains is for the Londolozi family to extend to you, and your loved ones, our best wishes for this year’s festive season, trusting that 2012 will be filled with many enquiries, plentiful bookings, healthy occupancies and lots of happy guests!  We look forward to keeping you entertained and up to date in 2012 on the Londolozi Blog and trust that you will continue to comment on and share the stories that you find interesting.

And so in accordance with tradition, and in appreciation of our strong and enduring association, without further delay, for your own personal enjoyment, for the fourth year running; the amazing… the incredible… one of a kind… not yet seen before on screen… cinematic master piece… THE 2011 LONDOLOZI CHRISTMAS VIDEO… starring the Lone Rangers, Father Christmas and the students of the Madlala Learning Centre. ENJOY and THANK YOU.

Best Regards,

Dave Varty

YOU are invited to join the Christmas Drive…

***It costs R150 per child per month to attend the learning centre classes (R1800 per annum). You are very welcome to sponsor a child who is keen to learn but not necessarily able to afford the fee.

Santa Claus at Madlala

John Varty (JV) is an acclaimed wildlife filmmaker, conservationist, musician, author and one of the founders of Londolozi Game Reserve. He has dedicated his life to the conservation of Big Cats, most notably the leopard. During the 70′s, 80′s and 90′s JV’s wildlife films drew attention and awareness to the beauty, behaviour and lives of these phenomenal cats of which Londolozi is proudly home to. JV’s most recent film, Leopard Queen, is currently being screened on Nat Geo Wild and features two decades worth of footage of the famed Londolozi leopard ‘3:4‘. In this the second of a series of interviews with John Varty, he talks about 3:4′s life as a cub and how leopards behave when raising cubs and dispersing their young at different stages of maturity.

Renowned photographer Ryan Graham recently spent some time with us at Londolozi capturing an assortment of images out on safari, throughout the lodges and behind the scenes. This blog post is dedicated to the staff of Londolozi whose lives are closely intertwined as a community and as a family living together out in the wilderness. The images below are a behind the scenes snapshot of what goes on when our cherished guests are out on drive or relaxing in the quiet of their rooms…

Women Fishing at Camp Dam

The Cubs Den

Londolozi Lionesses Practice Soccer

Dumi, Varty Camp Butler and Londolozi Leopards Striker

Sersant, Tree Camp Butler and Londolozi Leopards Midfield

The Londolozi Spaza Cafe

Heading up into the village after a days work at the lodge

Nkosi Sikeli Afrika

One of the children in the village waves as we walk by

Setting up the Tree Camp Boma for dinner

Washing blows in the breeze and gets showered by Acacia flowers as the midday heat causes a breath of wind to move through the village

Digital Learning at the Londolozi Learning Centre

Learning at the Londolozi Learning Centre

Cutting material to sew at the Londolozi Learning Centre

Sewing at the Learning Centre

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Digital Learning on the Let's Sell Lobster Program at the Londolozi Learning Centre

Children's Shoes outside the Creche

The Londolozi Creche

Children Playing at the Londolozi Creche

The Londolozi Children

Londolozi Child playing on the swings

On my death bed I will tell those, assuming there is anyone listening, that walking in the bush with Jerry Hambana has been some of the most ‘alive time’ of my life. Not fun time, memorable time or unforgettable time – but alive time… moments when the heart beats a little quicker, the eyes were keener and the footsteps more measured. Walking in the proximity of lion and leopard can do that to you and if you are a natural at it (and there are many on the team) then you probably move beyond the excitement phase of tracking to the business end of it.

I’m not a natural bush tracker and I’ll always have a more natural eye for golfballs crouching in 6 inch rough than mustard yellow eyes in the thatching grass. As a result I get set off easily when on foot. Quails and francolins exploding from thickets at knee height and bushbuck and duiker bursting to life from their frozen hiding places are heart arresting moments and I seem to have had many of them. Jerry doesn’t flinch of course but he does watch my spasmodic reactions with some delight.

Majingilane Male Lion

Beyond the natural sounds that trigger adrenalin when on fresh tracks, there are the internal squeaks and gurgles that can be experienced at the ungodly hours we often find ourselves creeping around in the bush… Serious tracking should be left for after breakfast because my empty stomach speaks in a range somewhere between a cat like growl and an elephant rumble. I’ve watched Jerry freeze momentarily as my internal digestions have shattered a silent morning. If I hadn’t given myself a fright in those moments I probably would have been able to take some pride in foxing Jerry.

More recently I’ve been having other more serious problems. If you have ever had a ringing in one of your ears then you’ll know part of what I’m about to describe. Ringing in the ears is common enough amongst most people and is an indication of some sort of ear damage or hearing loss. This is hardly suprising given our modern lifestyles. I’ve had the whole ringing ear thing before and when I was growing up I was taught a superstition that it meant someone was talking about you. Obviously as a singleton I used to think that it was a gathering of girls discussing me at length but more recently I’ve fantasised that management have been discussing giving me a raise. Alarmingly though, the ringing has now developed into something much more sinister – tinnitus…..

At least I think it’s tinnitus that’s afflicting me. We are a way away from an ear doctor here so I’ve diagnosed myself on the internet. Searching for definitions rendered: “Tinnitus can be perceived in one or both ears or in the head. It is usually described as a ringing noise, but in some patients, it takes the form of a high-pitched whining, electric buzzing, hissing, humming, tinging or whistling sound, or as ticking, clicking, roaring, “crickets” or “tree frogs” or “cicadas”. That description should have most rangers running to an ENT surgeon.

My experience is a rythmical whirring in my right ear and that sound is easily confused with wild dogs contact calling each other. It’s disconcerting when the ‘holy grail’ of animal sightings keeps calling inside your head and poor Jerry has had to learn to disregard my insistence that the pack is nearby and on the run. I’ve also wondered if I’ve stumbled onto, beyond the range of the average human ear, radio transmissions.

More probably I’ve got age and loud sound induced damage. It’s manageable but annoying when things are very quiet and internal sounds are amplified by silence. At it’s worst I’ve wanted to cut my ear off (I wonder if Van Gogh suffered from tinnitus) but now I’ve relegated it to the bunch of other ailments I’ve collected along the way (astigmatism, bad back etc…) and eventually I’m guessing it will become ‘white noise.’
Ipods, snoring wife, rifle practice and parties on Varty Deck all come to mind as the most obvious source of noise damage, but I’ve decided to blame the roaring Majingilane male lions for my auditory impairment.

As such my two New Years resolutions will be to park further away from male lions and to see what compensation the provident fund offers rangers who’ve heard one too many lion symphonies…

In a recent interview with CNN’s Marketplace Africa, Dave Varty talks to Robyn Curnow about balancing profit with conservation and how he is pioneering Londolozi’s organisational model towards a Social Enterprise and what the definition of one is.

We have very little in common. Elmon is an elderly, wise, shangaan man who was born and bred on the land. As a young boy he was taught to track by his father while herding cattle amongst lions. I am half his age and have spent a lot of my life in cities. Yet, as different as we are, we choose to spend at least 8 hours of every day in each others company. The common denominator you may wonder? A profound love of the bush.

Despite not having being schooled in the traditional sense, Elmon is an educated man. ‘The bush is my classroom and the animals, my teachers.’ he said with his stern, yet friendly expression. Throughout his lifetime he has undergone a ‘schooling’ which very few humans have ever been fortunate enough to have, and even fewer will in time to come. On watching a lioness pawing at a male to wake him from his slumber to mate yet again, Elmon turns to me, chuckles and says “It’s the 1st time I’ve seen that. In the bush, I will learn until I die!”

James and Elmon out on Game Drive

Animals are an example to us, he explains. Despite not talking our language they’ll warn us if we come too close or intrude. How come humans don’t always warn us? “What’s the most frightening experience you’ve had in the bush?” a guest enquires from the back row. “Wild animals aren’t dangerous”, he goes on to elaborate. “Humans are the most dangerous creatures.  The world is turned upside down. Living in the city makes you weak; Computers are bad for your eyes and you don’t get the exercise you should. You need to eat natural things like Marula nuts, fresh fruit and meat from the bush, not Macdonalds with hormones in it.”

He is a true naturalist.

Chasing after a pack of Wild Dogs

My best time in the bush have been walking alongside him, hot on the trail of a leopard and seeing the merriment in his eyes as we finally catch a glimpse of the beautiful cat. After 40 years as a tracker and hundreds if not thousands of leopard encounters, his excitement is as obvious as it must have been those 30 years ago when he and John Varty found the 1st leopard to be seen at Londolozi – The Mother Leopard.

This special man has seen and done it all. He’s chased lions away from a kill as a child to ‘share’ some of their quarry; cutting off a piece of meat so man and beast could share the spoils. He’s raised a lion cub, Shingalane, starred in a movie called Running Wild alongside big names like Brooke Shields and Martin Sheen. He’s had a documentary, The Tracker, made about his life. And yet he still takes the time to teach a stranger he has nothing in common with and is also as excited about every game drive as the last.

Elmon Mlhongo in his early days as a tracker and filmmaker with John Varty

Those that have sat in the game drive seats behind him know that he cuts a dignified, regal image on the front of the vehicle. There’s never any doubt as to who is in control of our game drives. Although he doesn’t say too much, his presence is tangible.

It’s been such a privilege to work with Elmon for the last 2 years and have him pass on his knowledge to me. A debt I’ll never settle and struggle to thank him enough for.

Elmon Mhlongo - 'Mjonzize'

Initially I called him Nduna, the big chief. Once we got to know each other a little better and I realised what an impact he was having on me and I started calling him Mjonzize, teacher. Our bond has strengthened yet again and I’m proud to now be able to call this incredible man, Mfo. My friend.

Written by: James Hobson
Photographed by: Rich Laburn & Chris Goodman

Renowned photographer Ryan Graham was recently at Londolozi taking pictures of everything from the rooms to the wildlife to the members of the Londolozi family. In this post, we showcase Ryan’s stunning images of the Londolozi Lodges, interior details and cuisine…

A Private Swimming Pool Dinner at Pioneer Camp 1926

A Private Swimming Pool Dinner at Pioneer Camp 1926

The Original Suitcases which first arrived here in 1926 adorn the Pioneer Camp Wine Cellar

The Reading Lounge at Pioneer Camp 1926

'Room with a View' - Watch elephants from the Granite Suite Outdoor Bathtub

The Granite Suites Lounge at Dusk

Private Granite Suites guests arrive back from their game drives to this

1926 Londolozi Amenities and Bath Range

A Private Verandah Dinner at Granite Suites Room 1

A Private Verandah Dinner at Granite Suites Room 1

The bust of legendary tracker Winnis Mathebula and an old Remington Standard Typewrite at Varty Camp

Whisky at Varty Camp

Londolozi Executive Chef Craig Paterson

Prawn Shooters Canapes by Executive Chef Craig Paterson

Prawn Tempura on Cucumber by Executive Chef Craig Paterson

The Leopard and the Wildebeest

Black and White Skull at Tree Camp

Images of the Founders of Londolozi adorn the walls of Founders Camp.

Each of the images has its own story to tell in the Founders Camp Main Lounge

John Varty (JV) is an acclaimed wildlife filmmaker, conservationist, musician, author and one of the founders of Londolozi Game Reserve. He has dedicated his life to the conservation of Big Cats, most notably the leopard. During the 70′s, 80′s and 90′s JV’s wildlife films drew attention and awareness to the beauty, behaviour and lives of these phenomenal cats of which Londolozi is proudly home to. JV’s most recent film, Leopard Queen, is currently being screened on Nat Geo Wild and features two decades worth of footage of the famed Londolozi leopard ‘3:4‘. In this the second of a series of interviews with John Varty, he talks about how 3:4 responded to her cub being eaten by an African Rock Python…

Have you ever wanted to know how to capture stunning images of lightning?  Contrary to what you may think, the process is relatively simple provided that you have the correct equipment, a promising location and, of course, a very big electric storm.  I took the below set of images a few nights ago as the first electric storm of the summer rolled across the central regions of Londolozi, creating a spectacular contrast of lightning bolts and sheet lightning.  I have included a short explanation beneath some of the images which, together, should give you a fairly good indication of how to get these types of shots…

A camera, tripod and intervalometer are the three critical components which allow you to take images of lightning. In this instance I didnt have my tripod with me and so I had to rest the camera on beanbag on the ground. The low angle worked well for this image as I wanted to convey a sense of perspective with the vehicle.

Once I had set my 5D to settings I wanted, I did not change them during the shoot. A low ISO was important as I had a lengthy shutter speed to play with and thus could afford to keep the ISO on 200. Having the ISO so low meant that the image would not be noisy or too blown out with the brightness of the lighting bolts. Lightning storms are powerful, moody and surreal - as such a darker image conveys a better feeling than light ones.

The lightning bolt looks as though it is right behind us, however it was actually a few kilometers away. I had used my wide angle lens at 16mm, to include the vehicle and with a bit of luck the above bolt struck to the left of it giving the image an interesting twist. Wide angle lenses are the way to go when photographing lightning as you can never be quite sure where the next bolt will hit.

By using two different trees and an horizon line, the image automatically has depth to it. When the sheet lighting strikes above, you can place it in the context of the landscape and tbus the sense of scale and perspective comes through once again. If you look closely at this image you will also see a few smaller bolts right at the back of the image, which also add to the depth of field.

These three different strikes did not all happen at once but each independently over the space of 20 seconds. I set the camera to Bulb mode and clicked open the shutter on my intervalometer. The first bolt in the bottom right struck first, then the bolt on the left. 10 seconds later, the sheet lightning bolt ran overhead and lit up the entire sky and foreground. I took a few more like this one, however if the big sheet of lightning does not strike early on, the image runs the risk of being blown out as the shutter would have already taken in too much light.

Look at the difference between this image and the on above. The bolt struck after about 10 seconds and I released the shutter. The effect is that the clouds are much darker, the landscape is not as easy to see and the tone of the whole image becomes menacing. You will see varying degrees of this in the below two images.

Rich Laburn Dark Lightning in the Lowveld

One of the best images of the afternoon simply because of the form, size and intensity of the lightning. I particularly like the composition of this image as it includes the two trees for depth and the road on the left hand side is just another avenue which leads the viewer into the image.

Natural reflections, especially in water, give imagery a completely new dynamic. This last image was taken at Camp Dam, literally as the storm began to come down on us. You can see the movement of the wind on the water and the stark silhouette of the Leadwood tree as its reflection line disappears somewhere into the water. The bolts struck early on and thus when I close the shutter the rest of the image remained black, effectively framing this magical moment.

Preparing for your safari can be a daunting task, especially when you have limited luggage space and a long trip ahead of you.  With this in mind, I have put together a basic list of what I believe the 5 most important items for your safari are.  As long as you have these, everything else should fall into place.  Of course, there are items I have not included and as such if there is something that you feel to be just as important, I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below.

1. Camera & Battery Charger

First off, it doesn’t matter what type of camera you have, so long as you bring something with you to capture the myriad spectacular images, wildlife, landscapes, lodging and people you will encounter on your safari at Londolozi.

For many keen amateur photographers, this post will help you to understand what the best photographic equipment to bring on safari is.  Regardless of what equipment you use, make sure to bring it on the game drives as this is where you will be exposed to the greatest variety of wildlife.

Further to this point are the additional attachments and accessories that come wild photographic and video equipment. Remember to include spare batteries, a battery charger, an international adaptor (if you are from the northern hemisphere), spare memory cards or a computer/external hard drive to download your footage onto. For the more seasoned photographer: lenses, flashes, tripods, spare bodies and cleaning equipment are all useful in the wilderness environment where dust and the elements can dirty your equipment.

Leica Cameras are a popular choice in addition to the Canon and Nikon DSLR

2. Binoculars

Binoculars for a crucial part of the safari experience as they provide an intimate lens through which to experience the wilderness and the wildlife. Not only do binoculars assist in the identification of birds, reptiles and animals at a long range, but they also enhance the game viewing experience by allowing you to observe, close up, the patterns, colours, shapes and forms that make African wildlife so special.

Top binocular brands include Swarovski & Leica, however Bushnell, Nikon and Vortex are also extremely good.
Small, compact binoculars are lightweight to carry and easy to use. Although they may not provide the best optical range and quality, they are most definitely better than having nothing at all.

If you wish to purchase or rent a pair of binoculars, they are available at the Londolozi Living shop.

Swarovski binoculars are some of the best on the market

3. Hat, Sunglasses & Sunscreen

Although these could each be separated individually I have lumped them together in the interest of stating the critical elements needed for protection from the African sun. Wide brimmed hat is preferable, but a cap or peak will also work. Sunglasses keep the dust and harsh midday light out of your eyes.

It is worthwhile bringing a factor 30 or above sunscreen for the face, neck and arms. This is especially true in the summer months, however it wont hurt to put it on in the winter sun as well. For many people from who spend most of their time indoors, failure to use sunscreen during the day can result in very bad sunburn.

4. Closed Shoes & Neutral Clothing

I can give you many occasions when my feet have been scratched or cut by thorns and stones through walking around in open shoes. The bush is a rugged terrain and thus requires closed boots, trainers or sneakers. Although a pair of open shoes are often comfortable to wear in and around the camp, when heading out into the bush nothing beats a tough pair of boots.

Whether you are out on a drive or a bushwalk, neutral colored clothing allows you to blend into the bush with greater ease.

Neutral colored clothing when out on a bushwalk helps you to blend in with greater ease

5. Insect Repellant & Torch

Whether you like it or not the wilderness contains many different species of insects, in particular the mosquito. Although insect repellant is provided at the lodge, it is always useful to have a bottle or spray around when the sun sets at the end of each day. Peaceful Sleep is a regularly used insect repellant that is freely available at Londolozi.

Despite the fact that our ranger and lodge staff all carry torches, having a small one of your own can be incredibly useful when the sun goes down. Often you will be out on a game drive and require a small bit of light to find a misplaced camera lens, jersey or bottle of water that has disappeared somewhere into the vehicle. When walking at around at night, torches are critical to be able to see where you place your feet. From potentially dangerous insects and reptiles to rocks and holes that you may fall into a small torch is one of the most useful items to carry.

A torch at night is crucial

What other item have I left out that you would suggest also bringing on safari.  Leave your suggestions in the comments section below…

So it was another of those kite-windy afternoons at Londolozi that you sometimes get in September and we were out hunting Rhinoceros. Typically on your fourth evening with the same guests you wouldn’t be so desperate to see one, but we had skillfully evaded them for days and so were under pressure to find one.

Pressure is defined in the dictionary as ‘The burden of physical or mental distress’. Most people reading this will quite easily identify with the squash of it, but the pressure of picking performing stocks or running board meetings or fighting expressway traffic is very different to the pressure of having to find a rhinoceros. If you squeeze a small khaki clad mind for long enough funny things start to happen and so puttering around likely rhino hiding places at 20kph I started thinking of Gary Larson.

There can’t be too many people in the western hemisphere that haven’t seen or chuckled at a Larson cartoon. His ‘Far Side’ cartoons appeared in newspapers around the world for 15 years and his 23 books sold 45 million copies. That’s a lot of toilets!

One of Gary Larson's African Safari themed Far Side cartoons

He retired fearing that he would eventually enter what he called the “Graveyard of Mediocre Cartoons.”  I wish he had made a trip to Londolozi because he would certainly have found a wealth of material for a 24^th book. He would have seen rhino tiptoeing through the riparian forest and crawling on their bellies, buttocks high, through the long grass…

When I looked Larson up on the internet I discovered that the various honours accorded him include some newly discovered creatures named after him: The Strigiphilus garylarsoni is a biting louse found on owls and there is anEcuadorian rain forest butterfly called Serratoterga larsoni . To complete the list of honours the Garylarsonus beetle also carries his name.

After the naming of the louse Larson wrote: “I considered this an extreme honor. Besides, I knew no one was going to write and ask to name a new species of swan after me. You have to grab these opportunities when they come along.”

It appears that naming new animals after celebrities and famous people is a new kind of sport and the list is endless and the reasons are likewise intriguing. I’ve added a few I liked but google the comprehensive list for a laugh as well as the outlandish explanations for them.

• Agathidium vaderi – Darth Vader  (shiny, Darth-Vader-like head)
• Agra schwarzeneggeri – Arnold Schwarzenegger (carabid beetle with well developed ‘biceps’)

• Avahi cleesei – John Cleese (long-legged lemur)
• Campsicnemius charliechaplini – Charlie Chaplin (long-legged fly)
• Draculoides bramstokeri – Bram Stoker (small juice sucking arachnid)
• Norasaphus monroeae – Marilyn Monroe (hourglass-like shaped Trilobite)
• Preseucoila imallshookupis – Elvis Presley (gall wasp)
• Sylvilagus palustris hefneri – Hugh Hefner (marsh rabbit)

Windy afternoons aren’t ideal for finding Rhinoceros and they typically do ‘hide’. With a little of Jerry’s skill and a lot of luck we eventually found a Ceratotherium simum on the banks of the Sand River heading for an evening drink and wallow. (In case you are wondering: Ceratotherium: from the Greek cerato, meaning horn and therium, meaning wild beast; simum: from the Greek simus, meaning “flat nosed”.)

Gary Larson Dust Rhino Cartoon

We too then headed for a sundowner at which point I wondered what exactly it was that afforded Larson such a brilliant, upside down view of the world of animals – he would certainly have been a brilliant guide.

Gary:  if you’re reading this – there’s a Rangers course in January.

“There’s a line from a poem by Mary Oliver that asks: ‘What is it that you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?’ Those words have a habit of hitting me in the gut, which is why I leapt at the opportunity to join the African STAR (Self-transformation Adventure Retreat) hosted by Londolozi in June each year. The retreat invites people to experience the healing power of nature during a week of intensive coaching. Each STAR is intended to help save the world, bit by bit, using First World abundance to finance the restoration of wild ecosystems and ensure that local communities can thrive economically as guardians of the wilderness.

When I first read that the retreat is designed to ‘give you access to inner peace, a sense of your life’s purpose, and empowerment to achieve your goals’, I couldn’t visualise the process or how I was going to work out what to do with my life – let alone how to help save the planet – in the space of five days. My rational left-brain thinking was already tripping me up. It was time to invite my right brain to take over and stray into the wild.”

Download the full article written by HORIZONS magazine writer, Jane Broughton, of her experience on the 2011 African STAR Retreat at Londolozi. Simply CLICK HERE

The bushveld in September is magnificent! The mornings are crisp and fresh and the days warm and comforting. This time of the year always allows for incredibly vivid and colourful photographs. The colour orange is often expressed so effectively in strong powerful images. Below you will see some of the photographs which concentrate on the theme of ‘orange’…enjoy

The sun sets on yet another perfect day in Africa by Adam Bannister

A Male Lion Stares into the Night by Rich Laburn

Burning firebreaks often creates magnificent sunsets by Adam Bannister

Spotlighting a feeding frenzy by Adam Bannister

Orange Breasted Bushshrike by Chris Kane-Berman

Stork in the sunset by Chris Kane-Berman

A male cheetah stops to turn at look over his shoulder by Rich Laburn

The winter landscape burns in the late afternoon light by Rich Laburn

Pied Kingfisher by Graeme Marais

Silhouette of two male Impala by Chris Goodman

The bush is a long way from the world of finance and few men manage to bridge the gap successfully. David ‘Doyle’ Dampier is one of those men and with a knack for capturing spectacular photographs of Londolozi’s most renowned and elusive leopards, he is one of the secret weapons in the Londolozi blog team.

Elusive and Understated: David Dampier by Rich Laburn

You might know David better by his weekly ‘Leopards of Londolozi‘ column wherein he deftly details the stories and secrets behind his best leopard photographs of the week. Having guided at Londolozi for well over two and a half years, he is well practiced in the art and craft of a great leopard photograph.

David photographing the Majingilane male lions crossing the Sand River in style by Adam Bannister

Doyle’s life does, to a certain extent, imitate his art as well as the subjects thereof. Elusive and understated yet extremely skillful and intuitive in the bush, his talent extends far beyond the lens. To view some of his stunning images, simply follow the this link to see the Leopards of Londolozi for yourself.

David Crossing the Sand River - Adam Bannister

As head of the Londolozi Online Media & Marketing Department, Rich Laburn has brought our special place in the African Bushveld to the rest of the world, through setting up an informative, professional, visually appealing and user-friendly platform. But don’t let his computer skills fool you: this wildlife enthusiast is still a ranger at heart.

Rich photographing the sunset by Talley Smith

Having trained in the Kwa-Zulu Natal, Rich then worked as a ranger at Phinda for 2 years. There, he honed his wildlife photography and filming skills, eventually deciding to return to the city to pursue a career in media. He lasted about 5 months until accepting a position back in the bush, at Londolozi!

Despite his clear talent in editing, Rich never trained professionally: he has taught himself how to use all the various computer programs associated with piecing together the productions he creates. The patience and time he takes to try and teach the rest of us these skills are testaments to his excellent teaching demeanor.

Rich takes a hands-on approach to the bush lifestyle. Whether it be hopping in a Land Rover to film the latest episode of wildlife drama, running the local marathon, or strumming his guitar with guests around the boma, he is not just a face behind a computer screen. He has plenty of bushveld adventures to tell about.

Rich Filming in Mud

For example, recently Rich was bitten by a Mozambican Spitting Cobra while out in the bush one day with friends. Usually snakes are shy of people, but in this case the perpetrator slithered closeby unnoticed, and bit Rich’s foot. He moved everyone else away, and only once he knew they were safe did he inspect his own injury. The diagnostic symmetrical puncture wounds were a terrifying sight: cobras have a neurotoxic venom which attacks the nervous system and is, most of the time, deadly within the hour. Rich remained completely calm for the traumatic few hours when we symptomatically treated him, and was very lucky that it turned out to be a dry bite – venomless, and therefore only superficial.

Rich hard at Work by Talley Smith

Rich’s synch with nature is epitomized by the footage he took of the Tutlwa female and her cub a few months ago. The youngster was and remains extremely shy of people and vehicles, yet Rich’s patience and gentle energy allowed him to approach the animals enough to get what is still the only footage we have of them. He is truly someone on par with the rhythm of nature, with a sincere passion for wildlife as well as an excellent photographic eye.

It’s not a hard and fast rule, but most guides leave Londolozi having made a connection with a specific animal and that invariably turns out to be a leopard. Stoff watched 3:4 from the moment she was born, Alex Van Den Heever loved the Tugwaan Female, Rich Ferrier is always hunting for the Nottens Female and Mike Miller is still carousing the north for the Nyaleti young Male… I love the Leopards of Londolozi but truthfully I’d swop every leopard sighting I’ve ever had for the time I’ve spent with the Tsalala tailess lioness.

The Tsalala lioness has intrigued me since the moment I first encountered her in 2004 as a single lioness with her two 18 month old cubs. She stood out then because she was a single mother surrounded by booming big prides. She was in her prime and she was capable of hunting wildebeest and zebra single handedly. As a result her two daughters were never short of a meal and the three of them were always in immaculate condition; it is not unusual to see prides looking thin and in poor condition from time to time, but not these lions.

Time has marched on since I first met the 3 of them at Ximpalapala koppie almost 8 years ago… When I think back over the years I realise I have seen her at some of her strongest and weakest moments. I watched her temporarily abandon both daughters when her litter in April 2005 was born. The two young girls, confused as they had never known a life without their mother sat in the Albizia tree overlooking Marthly Pools and roared their heads off desperately calling for her. She hadn’t permanently abandoned them but had other pressing needs and had raised her two daughters to be able to cope with such a moment. When she found them again they were adults: confident and capable.

It was 6 months later when a clan of hyena caught her at her most vulnerable moment. She had caught a zebra and the clan found her at the carcass alone save for her 4 cubs. She was able to get her cubs to safety but not before she received a mauling that resulted in the loss of her tail and made her instantly recognisable and virtually a global star! 5 years on and those two little females who waited at the Albizia are now the veteran tsalala mothers with 8 cubs and the tail-less lioness is raising 4 young females to adulthood on and off of Londolozi. They have been re-united many times over the years, but sadly the Male lion dynamic has driven this pride apart and we can only hope that they permanently find each other again. Even on leave I find myself getting onto the blog to find out if, where and with whom she has been seen. Quite possibly we need that re-union more than they do!

Ultimately the connection I share with the Tail-less lioness is that of motherhood: we have both used Londolozi as a place to raise our young. Beyond her determination, dedication and triumph against the odds I have especially admired her no nonsense approach to raising cubs and have tried to adopt her philosophy to raising my two children at home: Have fun and explore but this is the line and you are not to cross it! Challenge this boundary and there are consequences- but we’ll swiftly move on.

This might seem bizarre to take parenting advice from a wild lioness but all females on this planet probably share the same maternal instincts to a certain degree. I suspect that human instincts are being muddled up by over analysis and I believe that the Tail-less female has led me back to a simpler set of truths.

If you do come to Londolozi – arrive with an open mind: you may just discover a life lesson in the wilderness like I have.

Written by: Kate Imrie

Imagine being whisked away to Londolozi Game Reserve on a mission to write and present a multimedia travel story about your experience. Sound good? The reality is that all you need to do is enter the ‘Star in your own Safari’ competition proudly sponsored by Safari Interactive Magazine and Londolozi Game Reserve to stand a chance at winning this prize.

Safari interactive Magazine and Londolozi Private Game Reserve are offering one subscriber and partner a two-night photographic safari in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve. You’ll be sent off to Londolozi and met by a professional media crew so all you’ll need to do is enjoy it, tell us about it and become the star in a full feature about the experience in an upcoming issue of Safari.

Entry to the competition is simple and very easy to complete – simply click on this link and follow the steps laid out for you. - ENTER ONLINE

Star in Your Own Safari

What do I need to do to enter?

There are 3 parts to entering this competition.

1. Register with Safari Interactive magazine
2. Like the Safari and Londolozi Facebook pages (you need to have a facebook profile)
3. Email us and image that you think best represents the quintessential African safari experience. It needs to make us wish we were there.

Terms and conditions apply and are available on the online competition page.

Wish You were Here?

Talley Smith may be relatively new to Londolozi but she certainly is no novice to the guiding world! Talley has been guiding for 4 years and has a great understanding of the ingredients needed to make a sublime safari. She is without doubt one of the hardest working and dedicated people you will ever meet and wildlife and the photography thereof is her greatest passion.

Wild Dogs pups play up close to Talley - Adam Bannister

Talley is exceptionally talented behind the camera and is the mind and eye behind the much loved Friday Blog Postdedicated to photographing the weekly sightings. One of the 4 female rangers in the Londolozi Field Team Talley adds a great dimension and does very well to put up with the never ending banter that enters the Rangers Room.

Talley Smith just before heading out on afternoon game drive - Rich Laburn

Add to the mix the fact that she originates from the mythical triangle of Bermuda and left that behind when she fell head over heels in love with the African Bushveld. She is a special lady and a wonderful asset to the team. Those of you who know her and have driven with her will know what I mean when I speak of her being full of ‘playfulness competitiveness’.

Talley on game drive identifying a bird - Rich Laburn

Adam Bannister is passionate about the African bushveld. Having worked as a Londolozi guide for just under three years, Ad is even more enthusiastic about the bush than when he first arrived. An in depth understanding of lion dynamics at Londolozi, stunning photography and of course his naturalist abilities, make Adam a valued member of both the ranging and blog team at Londolozi.

Adam Bannister and Solly Mhlongo tracking the Tsalala Pride - Rich Laburn

Adam’s love affair with Londolozi began at the ago of 5 when he played a lead role in the hit Disney children’s series “Bush School” with John Varty. Child stardom, however, was not for him as Ad focused on his naturalist passions and the outdoors. After working and traveling extensively throughout North and South America as well as volunteering in the Amazon Jungle in Ecuador, Adam completed his Conservation Ecology (Hons) at the University of Stellenbosch.

Adam Bannister on the Dudley 5:5 Male Leopard's tracks late afternoon - Rich Laburn

Starting at Londolozi in 2009, Adam quickly put into practice his knowledge and experience. Thriving in the bushveld both in the vehicle, on foot and behind the lens, Ad’s guiding ability is not limited to just the naturalist side of things. As one of the rangers on the African STAR Retreat, he brings an esoteric and thought provoking element to his game drive experiences. Working closely with his tracker, Solly Mhlongo, the pair have developed a unique safari experience for guests at Londolozi.

Adam Bannister and Martha Beck on the African STAR Retreat - Rich Laburn

Adams most memorable sightings include Wild Dogs chasing Honey Badgers, the Nyaleti female hunting a newborn impala, the Tsalala Pride crossing the Sand River, and of the course the demise of a king.

Adam Bannister at a drinks stop - Rich Laburn

The Dudley Riverbank 5:5 Male jumps down past the Howard Mackie plaques at Plaque Rock. HOWARD MACKIE described as “the good companion” was in 1971, together with John Varty, the first ever ranger/manager and guide of an embryonic dream of a safari company. John and Howard were lifelong friends and as students at Wits University set off in the April of 1971, on a holiday semester, to seek fame and fortune on the Varty family farm called Sparta in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve. Their dream was to start a Safari Business which would ultimately become known as Londolozi.

The Dudley Riverbank 5:5 Male stands next to the plaque commemorating the life of Howard Mackie - Talley Smith

The “Howard Mackie” plaque, seen in this picture, is in memory of Howard and the great contribution he made to the start up of Londolozi and also as a Founder Pioneer in creation of “Helicapture” – the original and first ever game capture company in South Africa. Howard became a leading expert in the capture and after care of wild animals. This poignant photograph demonstrates the timelessness and enduring renewable cycle of nature as yet another generation of the Leopards of Londolozi visit at “plaque rock” in the heart of Londolozi.

The Dudley Riverbank 5:5 Male walks in front of the plaque in memory of Howard Mackie - Talley Smith

In Howard’s time Leopards were shy, elusive and seldom seen. Today the leopards have become the iconic cat which causes guests from across the globe to travel to Londolozi to see these beautiful spotted cats free, wild and safe as they go about their daily lives in the heartlands of Londolozi Game Reserve.

The view at Plaque Rock - Francesca Grima

Blue is probably the last colour you think of when you think of the bushveld; especially whilst in the throws of a dry winter! Here are a couple of photographs we have gathered together to show just how beautiful blue is and how wonderfully it can be expressed out here at Londolozi. Enjoy…

Blue Skied Landscape by Rich Laburn

Lightning Striking the Lowveld Escarpment by Rich Laburn

European Roller by Chris Kane-Berman

Leadwoods at Dusk by Rich Laburn

Vulture landing by Adam Bannister

Skeleton Tree by Adam Bannister

Tree climbing by Byron Serrao

Foam Nest Tree Frog by Adam Bannister

A red billed buffalo weaver's nest reflects off the evening calm by Rich Laburn

A Klipspringer stands in the early morning sun against a Winter's sky by Rich Laburn

An excerpt from Dave Varty’s book ‘Full Circle’ in which he recounts his misadventure along the Zambezi. Almost two decades later, he revisits the Katombora rapids to see the positive impact that eco-tourism has had in the area and interviews the very same river guides who pulled him out of the water.

Before we went into the next phase of the development, we decided to take a break and get to know each other. Howard Geech, Alan and I decided to go canoeing on the Zambezi – about 40 kilometers upstream from the Victoria Falls. We started our canoeing safari, clad, as you would expect, in our bathing shorts and bright yellow life jackets – the remainder of our equipment was to be transported down river where we would arrive later that day.

Some way downstream our guide, a typical Rambo-Zimbo boytjiie advise the team that we were approaching the Katombora Rapids.
‘Girls go down the right channel. Boys go down the left,’ he said.
‘Which way do you want to go?’
Of course, the bullet-proof brigade had no hesitation in shouting:
‘Left’

But we soon discovered that the only navigable channel down the left side was blocked by a fallen tree and within seconds we were at the mercy of this mighty river. There was nowhere to go. And there was no reverse gear. In a split second we were sideways on, jammed by the current against rocks and had white water pouring over us. We were in real trouble and were lucky to be able to extricate ourselves from our canoe, which had turned turtle. We rode down the rapids in our life jackets miraculously avoiding a head-on collision with the many rocky outcrops that punctuated the rapids. One canoe snapped in two. One of the guys in it went missing for several hours: we thought he had drowned. It was to be the first of many close shaves with Africa. Eventually, bedraggled and shocked, we pulled ourselves out onto the north bank of the river, altogether forgetting about the Zambezi crocodiles and the fact that we had now illegally crossed an international boundary. More was to come.

As we began to reorganise ourselves, an armed man in uniform approached us. I greeted the Zambian in my usual way, assuming that as we now belonged to a new democratic South Africa, all would be well. Then our Zimbabwean guide quietly told us to get into our canoes and get going quickly. But when we made our move, the attitude of the gun-wielding Zambian changed. Suddenly more armed people appeared out of the bush. Some we just kids brandishing handguns which were fully coked and pretty menacing. We found ourselves staring into the barrels of automatic weapons. We were then marched at gunpoint through the bush and told: ‘You have no passports, you are illegally in Zimbabwe. What should we do with you?’ We were in a worrying situation. The young heroes from South Africa were taking yet another lesson from the great African teacher.

Dave Varty in the early 1990's

The previous night we had had animated discussions around the campfire about the folly of international boundaries.
‘Africa’s wildlife once walked across the whole African continent,’ I said. ‘How is it that we are so arrogant that we impose boundaries are not related to the ecology of a region?’ I finished my lecture with the comment, ‘We share the river. It belongs to us all.’

Our guide tried this line on the very important Zambian official who was deciding our fate/. But he did not agree with our expansive view and we were unceremoniously bundled into a police van, fate and destination unknown, still dressed in our life jackets, swimming shorts and with one flip-flop between us which – for some inexplicable reason – had stayed attached to Alan’s right foot. And, of course, we had no passports.

One place you do not want to be on Friday afternoon in Zambia is in the back of a police van. The first priority of the driver is to get home quickly. The second priority is warm alcoholic beverage that will make the journey less tedious. So the speedometer climbed rapidly as we zigzagged our way, dodging potholes at about 120km an hour. From the rear of our truck we saw a military vehicle approaching, which – with the driver in the same state of mind as our – attempted to overtake us on the narrow road. Picture the scene: two worn-out government vehicles, two drivers racing home, lots of warm beer, and guns. Just as the army vehicle got alongside, our driver swerved to avoid a pothole. Both vehicles nearly overturned. But, by the grace of God, we arrived in Livingstone in one piece.

By that time the Livingstone border post was closed and, still clad only in our bathing shorts (and still with one flip-flop), we were hand over to immigration. But this was the wrong place: we were told that as the border post was closed we had to got to Internal Affairs. Here we told our story for the umpteenth time. For the first time the mood lightened.

‘It appears that you have suffered from a misadventure,’ the official said.
‘Yes, sir, we have indeed,’ I replied.
‘And furthermore,’ he continued, partly for the benefit of the other officials and definitely with a twinkle in his eye,’if you were coming to invade our country, I hardly think you would come dressed like that,’ referring to our severely torn lifejackets, shorts and the single flip-flop which seemed to stay with us.

Nervous laughter grew into uncontrolled mirth as ten o’clock at night he launched on the junior officials who had gathered along the way. With the theatrical flair that is so wonderfully African, he said, ‘I am sick and fed up of this bloody nonsense. Can’t you see these men are on holiday? Why do you not leave them to continue their canoe safari? You make unnecessary trouble for all of us. Take them to the Mosi-o-Tunya Hotel where they will be my guests for the night.

So, from having guns stuck in our ribs, were guests of the state in the best hotel in Livingstone.

Johanna Hagman visited Londolozi in January 2011 together with her family, including her grand parents and her cousins.  This is an article she wrote for the WWF Panda Magazine in Sweden.

From WWF Panda Magazine, Nr 3-4, 2011
Published in Sweden by the World Wildlife Fund

Safari in South Africa

Johanna has been on an exciting safari in South Africa’s Kruger Park and seen lots of wild animals. Here she tells her own story about the wonderful journey together with her own great pictures.

Safari in Syd Afrika

The safari started at four thirty in the afternoon. It was a warm beautiful day in South Africa’s Kruger Park, i.e. the most diverse mammal population in the world.

We sat up in the jeeps and already after five minutes we discovered evidence of large animals. Mud could be seen on the nearby tree trunks and our guide told us that it came from elephants who had rubbed of parasites (and mud) on the trees. Soon thereafter we saw who had done it: an old elephant bull who had been a long time in the area (so the guides easily recognized him).

Exciting meetings

A common sight were the impala, a small but elegant kind of antelope, and we saw them often in large flocks of several hundred. Now darkness was falling upon us and all of a sudden we found ourselves in the middle of a large elephant herd with animals on both sides of the road. A four meter tall bull slowly but steadily moved straight towards the vehicle. We all went completely silent as the bull came right at us. An there, two meters from the jeep, it stopped, as if he was contemplating whether to attack or not! Luckily he turned away and started to eat from a nearby branch. It was quite scary.

Elephant

But the adventure didn’t stop there. The guides took out their strong flash lights and shone over bush and trees (the animals’ eyes reflect the light at night). In the middle of the road we found a pride of 12 lion. They seemed unaffected by our presence as we carefully rolled by them. Like small pussy cats, but as soon as they yawned and showed of their razor sharp teeth, we were reminded that we were sitting just five meters from an animal that is built to kill…

Beware of the rhinos!

The next day we ventured out into the bushveld (a mix between savannah and sparse woodland) just before dawn, and saw a group of impala run past us in a frightful hurry. A group of wild dogs on the hunt! Within a few seconds the animals were gone. We barely caught a glimpse of the wild dogs, which are very rare.

The Big 5

After that we took a break in the middle of the wilderness. “Is it safe to get of here?” we asked. “Oh yes” said the guides. But when a couple of us had jumped down from the jeeps, my mother called out: “Rhinoceros!”. The adult male rhino, just 30 meters away, was probably as surprised to see us as we were to see him. After just a few seconds, when I had time to snap a few pictures of him, he jogged away from us. Those in the other jeep were a little paler than before.

Leopard tracking and a meeting with Tyson.

During our trip we visited two different places, both bordering the Sabi Sand River. The first place was a concession within the Kruger Park, the biggest national park in the world. There we saw all “the big five” (leopard, elephant, buffalo, rhinoceros and lion). The second safari, Londolozi, is a large privately owned reserve neighbouring the Kruger Park – the most leopard dense area in the world!

Already on the second day at Londolozi we sighted leopard. It started when we drove through an area full of impala, zebra and wilder beast. But on this day, on this spot, the animals seemed unusually nervous and the trackers (the tracking experts) in the jeeps identified several tracks on the dirt road ahead of us. Without a doubt they told us that these were the tacks from a large male leopard!

We drove around a couple of large circles in the area without finding any more traces of the leopard. After a while we gave up the search. Shortly thereafter we heard from the vehicles radio. Those in the other jeep had found the leopard, exactly on the same spot where we were just half an hour earlier. Vi drove back as quickly as possible and saw him walking on the track. He had an incredibly thick neck and had been given the appropriate name Tyson. We followed him for a while until he stopped and sat down just a few meters from us. After a couple of minutes he stood up and vanished into the vegetation.

The trip to Africa was a thousand times more interesting than what I had expected. The a bit too close rendezvous with the elephant bull, all the exotic bird species, Tyson and not least the rhinoceros during the “safe” break. An naturally all the giraffe, warthogs (not pretty animals), hippopotamus, crocodiles and all the other animals I have not mentioned. It was a fabulous experience and one which gave an enormous respect both for the animals and for those who are involved in animal conservation in South Africas natural reserves.

Johanna Hagman
Age: 12 years.
Lives: Uppsala, Sweden
Member of the WWF Panda Club: Since 2006
Favourite animals: Leopards, wolfs and Swedish birds of pray (such as Marsh Harrier and eagles).
Best nature experience: If you don’t count the trip to Africa, it would be my first “real” dive of Martinique in the West Indies.
Hobbies: Karate, scuba diving and of course photography (both old fashioned black and white and digital).
Want to see: Whale during a dive; a leopard during a successful kill; cheetah.
Dream trip: The Great Barrier Reef outside Australia!

Text and photographs: Johanna Hagman courtesy of WWF Panda Magazine.

A side effect of growing old is losing friends. The youngsters out there will think that I’m stating the bleeding obvious in that as your hair turns grey your network of friendships is thinned by death.

That’s not what I mean… I’m referring to that slow drift away from people you thought would always be close to you as your interests diversify and the complexities of your life escalate beyond simply staying in touch. It’s tempting to think that Facebook and its networking cousins will halt the drop off of childhood friends into the memory bank, but truthfully I suspect that they will suspend all relationships conducted through cyberspace on a very shallow and quickly forgettable plain. Time will tell…

My experience is that as I cheerfully head through my thirties and meet some of the most wonderful and interesting people, in this the most intimate of places, I add names to a colorful list of acquaintances. And then I met Jeremiah Hambana. I’ve written before about Jerry’s specialness as a person and I frequently introduce him to guests as the nicest person on the planet. Spending as much time as I do with Jerry is a privilege and I’ve subconsciously added him to my shrinking list of close friends.

Jerry about to head out tracking with Tom

We had a difficult drive a few days ago. It felt like we kept turning left when we should have turned right and the leopard we were tracking eventually eluded us. I got grumpy – it happens sometimes – and on the way back to the lodge I might have said something to the effect of: “well at least we are still friends.” Jerry with his deadpan and inscrutably honest expression turned to tell me that he did not consider me as a friend. It was a long drive home and in the awkwardness of camp I took him to task, explaining that I had long considered him a friend and what that meant. Jerry’s response was simply that we couldn’t be friends while I was grumpy… “for crying out loud Jerry, you can’t be that wishy washy about friendship surely?”

Jerry Hambana - Londolozi Tracker

Of course he can! Jerry places value in friendships being consistent and always behaving within those ideals. A western view might be more that a friendship holds through thick and thin and can tolerate some sort of poor performance from either side. Jerry’s position is unwaveringly simple: in his view so long as I’m grumpy, we aren’t and can’t be friends.

Well that has got me behaving myself in his company, because his friendship is something I cherish, and like most things in life that are of value, friendships require a decent amount of effort to acquire and retain. Beyond that I’ll use this life lesson from Jerry to enhance those special friendships I have, and apply them to new ones along the way.

During my two and a half years of working at Londolozi, I had the pleasure of meeting and working with Cry Sithole. With a mile wide smile and a tacit knowledge of the service industry this man delights guests at every opportunity. The Granite Camp guest book is a tribute to him from all the many travellers that have had the pleasure of staying in this exquisite lodge. Apart from the beautiful camps, breath taking views as well as some of the best game viewing in Africa, Londolozi is distinguished by the incredible people that devote each and every day to producing a world class experience for discerning travellers.

As is common with many of the Londolozi staff, they have not had the pleasure of experiencing most of what every day life in the big cities around the world entail. With this in mind I spent many afternoons in Granite Camp reliving experiences to Cry and the other staff of things we often took for granted. A short flight here, a quick train trip there is something many of us have experienced from an early age.

This past weekend Cry Sithole paid a long overdue visit to the bright lights of Johannesburg and all of which this very overwhelming city had to offer. A quick Federal Air hop from the quiet Londolozi airstrip was his first trip on board an airplane and although it made him rather “dizzy” it turned out to be an “awesome experience.” After just over an hour he arrived in the cold, bustling metropolis of Johannesburg, where he was whisked off at over 200kmph from OR Tambo Airport on board the much talked about Gautrain. Arriving just 12 minutes later at Sandton station to find himself surrounded by sky rise buildings, fast cars and people everywhere.

Cry Sithole on the Gautrain

A whirlwind tour of Johannesburg would not be complete without a trip to Nelson Mandela’s former house in Vilakazi Street, Soweto. This was in actual fact the only thing on the itinerary that I received from Cry and an attraction he was dead keen on visiting whilst in Johannesburg. After many other visits to well known and renowned places in and around Johannesburg it was unfortunately time for Cry to head back home to Londolozi.

Cry and Jax on Vilakazi Street, Nelson Mandela's Former Address

It was a great pleasure for me to have Cry to stay as it afforded me the opportunity to teach him something in return for all the knowledge he imparted onto me over the years. It was a rare privilege to work at Londolozi, a place that provided me with so much knowledge about life, but most of all it became the base on which lasting friendships were made and continue to thrive long after the time.

Cry and Jax Sightseeing Johannesburg

Written by: Jacqui Hempill

There is nothing more rewarding in the bush then tracking down ‘your own animal’. The thrill of chase…the ultimate hind and seek. Even if you don’t find the animal, the excitement of searching for the proverbial needle in the haystack is the essence of raw joy! The trackers at Londolozi are superb and this ‘needle’ is often uncovered. We are treated to spectacular sightings and it is thanks to the trackers that you leave here with poster size images of wildlife at it’s best. But there is so much more to the tracker – ranger relationship…

A true friendship

Solly Mhlongo and I have been working together for roughly a year and a half. I consider myself to be exceptionally lucky to be paired with a true gentleman who is so dedicated to his job. I find it wonderful that a friendship has developed between us; coming from completely different social backgrounds and at different phases of our lives yet somehow it works. We spend a good 8 hours a day together both on foot and in the vehicle trying to find animals and keep our guests informed and entertained. In the process we have become cemented to each other…we share each other’s highs and lows! We are a team.

Those who have driven with Solly and me will know what I mean when I say that our understanding of each other far surpasses the verbal. We have entire conversations without words. Subtle gestures, hand signals and body language are used instead. We even have a series of different whistles so that we can communicate across the bush whilst tracking on foot! We understand that through silence the bush is able to speak to us.

An understanding of each others thoughts is crucial

The reality is, is that Solly makes my job an absolute pleasure. He is so very willing to go the extra mile and always does so with a smile on his face. And beyond the guest realm I know that as a person he is there for me…out in the bush his huge amount of experience means the world. He is an overseeing eye, my protector, my mentor, my teacher, my confidant but most importantly my friend.

Throughout the past year I have been able to bring you incredible images and footage of animals in the wild. Whilst I am the one who takes the photos and writes the pieces it is Solly who by and large finds these animals in the first place. For this I want to say thank you to a very special man.

This relationship is not unique to Solly and myself. Over the past two decadesr Alex van den Heever and Renias Mhlongo have also developed an incredible bond as a ranger- tracker team and the pioneers of the Tracking Academy. You can find out more about their presentation ‘The Power of Relationships‘ by clicking on the link.

Hours spent next to each other - Carl Douglas

A gentle man with a wonderful smile - Adam Bannister

Written by Adam Bannister

I was a long way from home when I stepped out of the twin-engine prop plane that delivered me to Londolozi on the morning of Saturday, June 18. Trying to distinguish myself from the arriving guests, I skirted the ranger greeting line and approached a group of trackers, hoping someone would know where I was to be taken. Other than my name, I had no answer to who I was or what I was doing here. All I could tell the tracker was that the Varty’s were expecting me, and shortly after, Dave Varty, one of the few familiar faces in a very foreign place, pulled up to the airstrip to pick me up.

It was my second time to the bush, and upon arrival I found, as was the case my first time, that it takes a while for the mind to register the wild surroundings. The previous 24 hours had been a blur of jet travel, and the expanses of dry bush moving beneath a brisk winter wind required a drastic adjustment from the humid corner of the southern United States I call home. Tea at Varty Camp gave me a brief moment to settle in before I was handed over to Chris Goodman, the head ranger who would become my boss and close acquaintance over the next few weeks. Within my first hour, I was given a uniform, a contract, and a brief tour of the staff areas. That evening I was sent on a game drive where a leopard and a pack of hyenas feasting on a warthog kill served as a spectacular first viewing.

Leopard Viewing at Londolozi

Despite the thrill of arrival, when I laid down in my Rondavel that first night I thought I could never feel comfortable amongst the names and surroundings I had just been introduced to. By the end of the next two and half weeks, however, which would go by in a blur of varied experiences, I would find myself to be quite a part of the Londolozi family and the exotic environment in which they work and live.

According to my temporary contract, I was a “gofor,” a title that comes from the our frequent duty “go for this” or “go for that.” My job consisted of whatever menial tasks camp managers, rangers, and others needed done. Menial tasks at Londolozi, however, can hold much more excitement that those that I could be fulfilling back home. For my first week, Chris put me in the hands of a different camp manager each day, his intention being that at the end of the week I would be familiar with the locations and staff members of all the camps. The camp managers had various things in store for me. Window washing, wood chopping, and lantern filling were my usual tasks. The tasks were by no means fun, nor particularly exciting, but having to do them in a place such as this gave them a feel that could never be achieved back home. Window washing was made interesting by the company of monkeys, and the curious bush buck that watched me hack a trail to the Founders camp power box added a sense of the exotic to the monotonous task. At the end of every day, I could wander up to the village Spaza bar to have a drink while watching Shangaan children play soccer in the golden light of the setting sun, an image that erased whatever disparaging feelings the days work had given me and reminded me that I was experiencing life in a remarkable part of the world that I was lucky to be seeing at all, and those were only the boring days.

Playing Soccer with the Community

One morning, Chris told me that I would be helping out while he, the habitat workers, and some rangers did a control burn of the Sparta/Dudley firebreak. To the rangers, this was a chore. To me, it was the most exciting order I could have received. With water tanks strapped to our backs, and fire-retardant Magic Guarri bushes in hand, we spent the morning amid the billowing smoke of a bush fire. Spraying and beating out burning piles of dung left in the wake of the wall of wind propelled fire.

Burning Fire Breaks with Chris

Other days I found myself photographing wild dog pups on a trip to learn the roads of the reserve. Occasionally I would be asked to join a ranger on a game drive in order to make coffee or drinks for guests, where I would share in the guest’s excitement as Leopard hunted at an arm’s length from the vehicle. To wake up and have no idea if I was to be working amongst Leopard or setting tables in camp (which could sometimes be one in the same) is a feeling well fitting with the constant unknown of this place.

Wild Dog Pups

When I return to South Carolina, people will want to know what kind of animals I saw, or if I ever found myself in a dangerous encounter with the carnivores for which Londolozi claims its fame. But the truth is, the magic of this place is not completed by the animals alone, although they certainly lend a hand. The true wonder lies in the commonplace detail- The unmatched hospitality of the staff and the locals, the expansive beauty which lies in every direction, and the sense of adventure that allows a group of bush savvy South Africans to share a bond with a kid from the American South (even if constantly making fun of his accent is part of that bond).

Fighting fires with James and Chris from the Ranging Team

The things I will miss the most about Londolozi are the people who welcomed me into their family. Many foreigners, when they arrive in the bush, experience a sensation that makes them feel as though they are returning to a long forgotten home. Anthropologists and Sociologists have attributed this to something within our genetics that millenia of evolutionary migration has failed to erase. But to me it seems quite possible that this sensation is due to a much simpler phenomenon: The un-matched hospitality and warmth of the people who live and work in the bush. When I return to South Carolina, I will have only spent a month at Londolozi, yet still I suspect that when I fondly think back on my time here, it will stir feelings not of bittersweet nostalgia, but of a much more distinct emotion, homesickness.

Written by: Cole Huey

A few weeks ago, Land Rover unveiled their brand new electric Land Rover at South Africa’s Tourism Indaba held in Durban. Their product is, quite simply, stunning and heralds a turning point in the era of sustainable tourism and zero emissions safaris. For us at Londolozi and, in particular, for our General Manager Stoff Kane-Berman, the commercial production of this electric Land Rover is the realisation of a three year dream pioneering this new aspect of the African safari experience.

Land Rover's Electric Game Viewer

Land Rover’s electric vehicle was developed in conjunction with Barkers Performance products and features a bespoke battery system which incorporates Axeon’s properietary Battery Management System (BMS). This system fits straight into area where the traditional engine would lie and allows for the same maneuverability and ground clearance through rugged terrain.

Says Kevin Flynn, managing director of Jaguar Land Rover South Africa and Sub-Sahara Africa: “The Electric Game Viewer Concept is the perfect synergy of the Defender’s outstanding reputation as the definitive game viewing vehicle, as well as our drive to reduce emissions. The all-electric game viewer concept, has zero tailpipe emissions, thus offering a clean and silent operation, and reducing the impact on the highly sensitive environment in which these vehicles operate.”

Underneath the Hood of the Electric Land Rover

As for the drive itself, it is a silent and seamless experience with zero carbon emissions occurring at all. Charged from a conventional plug point or a solar charging unit, the vehicle can attest to truly emitting zero emissions except in its manufacturing. The vehicle handles itself with a sufficient amount of torque and power to go anywhere that the traditional Land Rovers can.

Londolozi's Fleet of Zero Emissions Vehicles: Golf Carts, Land Rover and Tractor

Here at Londolozi, we are still using Prototype number three of our own electrically converted Land Rover whilst we wait for our fleet to include a few of Land Rover’s electric vehicles. Fortunately our zero emissions Land Rover is not alone in the garage as our current zero emissions fleet also includes two solar-powered golf carts and a solar-powered tractor. Until then, the pioneering continues…

The Sound of Silence (Londolozi African S.T.A.R)

We sit in absolute silence gazing into the hazel eyes of a 5 ton elephant cow as she carefully and methodically uses her trunk to pick up dead pieces of wood, placing them to one side. She then proceeds to eat the grass previously hidden to other grazers. Moist, soft and green, she rumbles in delight! The scene unfolds bit by bit. I glance down at my watch and realize we have been here for 45 minutes and still not one word has been spoken. I slowly start the engine and we roll forward heading for a raft of hippo that are stirring in a watering hole not too far away. Words would have added nothing to the remarkable experience we had all just had.

Silence…It was incredible.

You see, we are on a silent game drive! A drive to help one reach a state of wordlessness. A drive to force one to leave behind polite, trivial conversation and get embedded in what is happening in front of you; to get you to start living in the NOW! This is all part of a relatively new, yet ancient thinking.

'Tracking Your Life' in Action by Rich Laburn

Once a year Londolozi Tree Camp plays host to the STAR group (Self Transformation Adventure Retreat). This extraordinary 5 days under the African skies is hosted by Life coaches/authors/motivational speakers Martha Beck, Koelle Simpson, Boyd and Bronwyn Varty. People travel from all over the globe to come and attend this meeting of magical spirits. It is part of a way to take safari to a completely new dimension. Each drive has an ‘objective’ to help steer people to a level of engagement.

Clockwise from left: Koelle, Bronwyn, Boyd and Martha by Rich Laburn

Tracking is a central theme which we follow throughout the week. Drives are often interrupted by hoping off the car, finding animal tracks and following the spoor on foot! The goal is to find the animals; but ultimately it is the art and skills of tracking which are pivotal. Later on the processes applied out in the bush are used to help people to ‘track’ their lives and find raw fun and enjoyment. To remove all the clutter and track down what really makes them tick as an individual.

'Tracking Your Life' by Rich Laburn

From a guests perspective it is a life changing experience. People arrive burdened by difficult pasts, heavy hearts or confused states and leave glowing and with a sense of purpose. The energy is incredible! I consider myself exceptionally lucky to be one of the guides for this experience. To listen to Martha Beck speak is an honour! I learn massive amounts about both myself and human nature. I get to do things that differ from the everyday guiding experience – I get to be part of an envelope being pushed to new levels from all directions!

Written by: Adam Bannister

Our very own Pioneer Camp 1926 has been selected by Robb Report’s editors as a “Best of the Best” Resorts in their just-released signature June issue. This 23rd annual “Best of the Best” edition culminates an entire year’s search for the luxury world’s most exceptional new products and services and we are delighted that Pioneer Camp has been selected.

Pioneer Camp Arrival Lounge

Read the Robb Report on Pioneer Camp here and of course, if you are interested in staying at Pioneer Camp just CLICK HERE for more information and pictures..

Pioneer Camp Interactive Kitchen and Dining Room

Pioneer Camp Bathroom and Outdoor Shower

Ever since I watched the movie I had wanted to go!

So why wait and wish any longer? At least that was my thinking when I made a rash decision to book a flight to Madagascar. Two days later and I had landed in Antananarivo, capital of the Land of Lemurs. To say that this trip was unplanned or un-researched would be a complete understatement. I literally grabbed the travel book off the shelves, charged my camera and stuffed a backpack.

The goal: To cheaply travel around Madagascar for 17 nights trying to see as many Lemurs, Baobabs, birds and chameleons as possible. To explore a different culture!

I arrived in Antananarivo; known affectionately as Tana, with absolutely no clue what direction I was going to head in let alone where I would lay my head to rest. And so began an adventure that will go down as one of the more crazy that I have ever embarked on.

Diadem Sifaka

At times I loved the country and at times I hated it. Travelling solo as an English speaking tourist in a very French Madagascar is a very difficult thing to do. I very quickly learnt that the few tourists who do brave the ‘political instability’ of Madagascar, do so from the comfort of a rented air conditioned 4 x 4 car, driven by a bilingual driver/guide who knows the backroads and places to visit, who knows the prices to be paid to street vendors and which areas are to be avoided. I, on the other hand could not speak a word of French and had no guide or car…I used the non-existent public transport system to journey around the southern parts of the island…alone!

The island is huge and I decided to try concentrate my efforts on the regions supposedly more rich in the crazy biodiversity that I had ogled at over the years on the Discovery Channel. I knew that most tourists went north to Nosy Be and so decided to avoid that area trying to get a true taste of Malagasy life. One might say that I got a little too much…I hardy saw any tourists and heard my first English accent on Day 8! I walked long stretches of the route, hitch hiked and even travelled by boat to speed up my movements. Countless hours were spent waiting for the notorious taxi-brousses to find enough passengers to fill their mini-busses and begin the slow trip to wherever.

The route I took meant that I ventured through rainforests, rice paddies, mountain ranges, gorges, granite domes, baobab avenues, spiny forests and white-sanded beaches. It meant I saw 14 different Lemur species and 80 different birds (60% of which are endemic). I had pictures taken of chameleons the size of my forearm and saw beetles with necks 10 times as long as their body. I listened to the eerie yet gorgeous call of the Indri. I saw the rare Long-tailed Ground Roller and watched the full moon rise from a piroque in the Mozambique Channel. I walked in canyons as grand as any and held frogs that looked like jewels. I ate rice and bread three meals a day, everyday!

Street Football

There are many who describe Madagascar as a half-finished world. That is a very accurate description of the strange, weird and wonderful landscapes, creatures and plants that call this land their home. Nearly everything you see here is found nowhere else in the world! The scenery is spectacular. The biodiversity, exceptional!

Unfortunately one is continually reminded of an ever-growing hungry, poor developing population putting massive pressures on nature. Deforestation is rife…massive tracts of forests are being felled and used for charcoal. Any suitable land is carved into picturesque rice paddies with tons of silt flooding into the catchment areas. The rivers carry silt to the sea bleeding life out of the land!

Wildlife is being forced to survive in fragments that are called reserves: islands in a patchwork of subsistence agriculture. It is sad to visit a country like Madagascar as a conservationist, to see a magical spot, a spot so special and unique being slowly depleted and destroyed by people. To witness first hand that we as a species are to blame for the demise of one of the true wonders of the natural world. Political instability has meant that aid has dried up to a country that even by African standards must be considered very poor! And where people are struggling to get money, what hope does a leaf-tailed gecko have!

To say the trip was easy would be a lie. The transport was tough. A 350 km drive would take 14 hours and involve countless breakdowns and corrupt roadblocks. My record was 45 people in one car…in this car we also had half a cow and an alive octopus in a plastic bucket. Chickens stirred on laps whilst goats bleated on the roof rack above. And everyone is out to make an extra buck!

Giraffe-necked Beetle

To say the trip was magical would be the complete truth. ‘Doing’ Madagascar the way I did it, the unconventional way, meant that I saw the good and the bad, the happy and the sad, of what it means to live here. The people are very friendly and accommodating. The country is safe and they appear to be looking after the natural areas that have been demarcated as ‘protected’. I achieved my goal of exploring a new area and saw lemurs, baobabs, birds and chameleons. I also met some fascinating characters along the way, even if I did not understand a world they said, and managed to get some powerful images on film. Hours spent alone also meant that I had time to reflect and think about my priorities and self. It enabled me to be a little selfish for a change spending time the way I wanted. It gave me huge appreciation and pride of how my home country, South Africa, and how it has handled many similar problems.

I urge you to travel to Madagascar; the country needs tourists! I did not notice any political unrest and felt safer here than anywhere else I have travelled. You will see things here that will blow your mind. Not only will see the most beautiful wildlife but you will change as a person…you perspective on life will change! My one suggestion however is to either speak French or do it as a group! Enjoy, you wont regret it!

My Top 5 things to do in southern Madagascar

Hiking in I’Ilsalo National Park

Listening to the Indri calling at Andasibe National Park

Sunrise walk through the Spiny Forest near Ifaty staring at the strange Baobabs

Bird watching and Lemur watching in the rainforest at Ramanofana National Park

Eating Chocolate Ice Cream in Fianarantsoa

Ring-tailed Lemur

Verraux's Sifaka

Spiny Forest

Written and photographed by Adam Bannister

1926: LONDOLOZI’S PRIVATE COLLECTION BODY RANGE

Londolozi’s new signature body range was inspired by the seasonal bounty of untamed Africa and the sensuous allure of clean running streams. Set deep in the heart of 6 million hectares of wilderness Londolozi Private Game Reserve is a veritable floral hothouse in the rainy season. Says Londolozi’s owner and creator of the range, Shanny Varty:

“In spring the Wild Basil (Ocimum canum) puts out bursts of little fragrant flowers which attract throngs of bees and hundreds of bright bushveld butterflies. It’s the opulence of this annual floral spectacular which inspired the creation of a body range that would capture the magical and evocative place called Londolozi.”

1926 Londolozi Body Range

At the heart of the bathing experience, since the first pioneering members of the Varty clan made landfall here in 1926, was the exotic languor of bathing on the banks of the Sand River. Here, where the river ran clear over submerged granite slabs, the soft white sand was used to purify and revitalise. The river was so clear and cool, so attracting, that it enticed the early pioneers into the domain of the crocodile and hippo for their evening baths.

1926 Londolozi Body Range

Now nearly a century later the river and its wild inhabitants, fresh air, expansive vistas and Wild Basil plants that stretch across the bushveld are unchanged. However, smelling sweet is far more easily achieved. You simply slip into the double volume bath or choose between an indoor or outside shower in your luxurious riverside suites and indulge in the finest natural essences, captured in Londolozi’s avocado oil and pure essential oil body range.

1926 Londolozi Body Range

Londolozi’s signature scent, 1926, is created with pure essential oils and is reminiscent of the grand genre of old fashioned cologne recipes, with big citrus aroma and earthy undertones that are both calming and uplifting. Avocado oil as a main ingredient is high in vitamins, A, D and E with wonderful emollient and collagen producing
properties. Pure essential oil and herbal extract formulations have been designed to detoxify, refresh and balance the skin.

1926 Londolozi Body Range

In harmony with the principles of working with nature and capturing the evocative scents of the savannah and grasslands, natural biodegradable ingredients and fragrances were sourced from the local region. The range is presented in deep amber glass vials, which are fully recyclable.

1926 Londolozi Body Range

Like everything about Londolozi the body range is refined, original and timeless. 1926 has captured the essence of Londolozi, a place of deep history and meditative luxury, merging senses and soul in a matchless wilderness experience.

For our friends in the trade, click on the link to download an electronic brochure of ‘The Bathers Journal’

Photographs by: Elsa Young

“A true, professional ranger is not only a competent ornithologist, tracker, protector, botanist, behavioral specialist and inquisitive naturalist but also a patient, well groomed, kind, passionate, selfless and enthusiastic people’s person who dedicates 18 hours of his or her day to creating the perfect wildlife holiday experience for someone else.”

It’s been a long time coming but 2011 will see the first ever ‘Ranger of the Year’ competition take place in South Africa. Driven by Specialist Guide Mike Karantonis and AfricaDirect, the competition is a platform for all experienced guides to pit their bush-skills against the best in the business and build even more of a name for themselves in the industry.

The competition will also give significant bragging rights to the winner and their respective lodge, not to mention a wonderful set of prizes, of which Londolozi is a sponsor. Judging and assessment will be based on such facets of guiding such as shooting, tracking, photography, awareness, birdcalls, bushcraft, mammal behavior, story telling, medicinal uses of plants, conservation topics, communication, team work and hospitality.

Ranger of the Year

For enthusiasts and visitors of Africa’s wild places, the Ranger of the Year competition will be incredibly interesting to follow as the different contestants are whittled down to a short list of 20 individuals of which 8 finalists will be chosen to attend the practical assessments over a period of 4 days.

The panel of judges range from FGASA directors to Alex van der Heever (Senior tracker and owner of the Tracker Academy), Bruce Lawson (Owner of Lawson’s Birding Academy) and of course Specialist Guide Mike Karantonis.

To find out more about the 2011 ‘Ranger of the Year’ click here

AT LONDOLOZI’S PRIVATE GRANITE SUITES IT IS NOT ABOUT THE BATHROOM

- Introducing the ultimate outdoor bathtub -

Londolozi has once again pushed the boundaries to create an authentic safari experience. A while back the Varty family declared that a true wilderness experience was, “not about the bathroom.” In their view the true essence of safari is the meditative luxury of nature itself and this goes way beyond the bricks and mortar of the lodge. Now they’ve taken themselves quite literally and in the exclusive Private Granite Suites guests will find that when it comes to riverside bathing it is truly not about the bathroom.

It truly is not about the bathroom

“It’s about the sound of water tumbling over vast granite rocks, it’s hearing the song of the white browed scrub robin, it’s about sharing the experience with bathing elephants, it’s about feeling the warm sun on your shoulders or seeing the moon river reflected at your feet,” says Bronwyn Varty about the capacious outdoor bathtubs situated decks below each suite.

The three secluded Granite Suites enjoy uninterrupted views of the perennial Sand River and now in addition to a glass encased en-suite bathroom, outdoor shower and swimming pool each suite has a private river bath. The river represents the source of all life in the reserve and the river bath, sensitively located under 500 year old ebony trees at the water’s edge, is the next best thing to actually being in the river itself. For the nervy bather a well-hidden electrified wire ensures serenity without interrupting the sense of being submersed in nature.

Granite Room 2 Pool and Outdoor Bath

The exotic languor of bathing on the banks of the Sand River has been at the heart of the bathing experience since the first pioneering members of the Varty clan made landfall here in 1926. At Granite Private Suite’s guests return from evening game drives to flower strewn, oil-infused, perfectly drawn baths. Now, the blending of the pioneering riverside bathing with more recent pleasures creates a matchless wilderness and sensory experience.

Room 3 Outdoor Bath

Bronwyn concludes: “We have found a unique way to demonstrate that it is not about the bathroom. At Private Granite Suites it is about nature’s great orchestra playing to all your senses while you adjust the water temperature and prolong the experience.”

For our friends in the trade, click on the link to download an electronic brochure of ‘The Bathers Journal’

Photographs by: Elsa Young

In October last year, Londolozi was incredibly pleased to host a fairytale wedding for two of our closest ambassadors and their friends.  In the midst of the wedding party was renowned wedding photographer, Ryan Graham who spent the weekend taking a selection of extraordinary and beautiful images of the event.  Says Ryan, “This was probably the best wedding I have photographed in my thirteen year career as a wedding photographer…” and judging from his images it is not hard to see why.

To see more images of the weekend and Ryan’s write up, visit his blog by clicking here.

“From their base at Londolozi, the pioneering game reserve in the Sabi Sands that has been home to their family for four generations, sister and brother Bronwyn and Boyd Varty are breaking boundaries in communicating their new vision of conservation. Liz Morris savours their sense of purpose…”

Our very own Bronwyn and Boyd Varty are featured in this month’s edition of Conde Nast, House and Garden magazine.  If you are a South African resident be sure to get your copy of the May edition of this publication and if you live overseas you can download a Pdf copy of the article by clicking here.

Enjoy!

Dear William and Kate,

First and foremost I write to congratulate you on your forthcoming marriage and wish you well for what I’m sure will be a marvellous occasion. Many thanks also for your splendid invitation. I finally received the much anticipated envelope yesterday, amidst a great deal of excitement, but was immediately saddened to discover that the big day is to be so soon! Possibly there have been some delays in the Royal mail reaching the Skukuza Post Office. This is a shambolic affair because it simply does not leave us enough time to shuffle our dates around and organise a visit abroad.

Tom Imrie's Wedding Invite

I therefore regrettably inform you that we shan’t be able to attend the ceremony at Westminster or the small gathering for a few hundred afterwards – as you can imagine it’s co-incidentally just after Easter here as well and owing to a full Londolozi and the advent of our annual Winter Calendar – well, we just can’t leave anything to chance.

Speaking about Winter, I was just thinking how key the weather is to these grand occasions. When we had to pull off a big wedding last year with a quaint ceremony down by the Mxabene, it was all oysters and sunshine – but then again – that’s sunny South Africa for you. I do hope it doesn’t rain and that the weather is set fair for all those that will turn out for the procession.
A word of advice for the carriage ride: if there is a bit of drizzle about and the cobbles are a bit slippery then use a LandRover to get from Westminster to Buckingham palace. There is a temptation these days to go with a Toyota for navigating tricky spots but in our experience they are just not comfortable or dignified enough. Anyway, of course it’s not going to rain!

I must say that I’m slightly put out that you would choose Tanzania as a honeymoon destination ahead of Londolozi. I have to wonder if the Windsors are still holding a grudge after all that nonsense of our famous tracker Winnis calling Princess Alices’ husband a ‘bloody fool’ back in ‘33? Alarmingly, I also overheard that those close to the future ‘Lion of England’ are slightly concerned about the danger presented by Male Lions to your Royal personage here in the Sabi Sands. If that is the case I would like to put your mind at ease on a few points regarding Male Lions in the region…

Firstly, whilst it is certainly true that the Mapogo are still a fearsome coalition there are now only 3 of them and they are apparently ‘only just’ dominant in the Western sector of the Reserve. I really believe it to be extremely unlikely that we would encounter these lions during your stay. On the nights when the choir aren’t singing in camp or Dean isn’t serenading on the saxophone it is always a possibility that one might hear them but to be honest I think you can write the Mapogo off. A far more likely occurrence would be us finding one or all 4 of the new male lions that have come to Londolozi. They are called the Majingilane and when they arrived here last year the first thing they did was to actually eat one of the Mapogo.

Majingilane Male Lion

I’m not telling you this to frighten you or anything but rather to illustrate that lions are only interested in lions and that your succession is not the kind that they would try and prevent. Besides which, if your aides sensibly steered you towards a post nuptial stay in the new Pioneer camp, I could probably arrange a private landrover for yourself and Kate. This would mean that we could make a decision to avoid seeing lions altogether without impeding on another guests wishes and we could concentrate on benign things like Black Mambas and White Rhinoceroses.
This might seem like a piece of re-assuring rhetoric but aside from this we do actually have a plan in place for these rare but wonderful royal occasions.

Firstly – spiriting you both into Londolozi undetected would be no problem whatsoever. You probably don’t want much to do with helicopters on your time off and with all eyes scanning The Sands for unwanted helicopter activity in case there are poachers about, we would probably fly you in directly from LHR to LDZ onboard a fixed wing. Dave Varty has a recently renewed pilots licence so that obviates the need for background security checks on Fed Air or Bat Air pilots to boot.
Secondly, to avoid a tip off to the News of the World from our staff, we would have Trisha run the camp during your stay. Being the only American on our staff, she doesn’t put much stock in Regal affairs, and to be frank, probably doesn’t even know who you are.
Lastly we thought about putting you in the new electric landrover. This would not only shuttle the two of you around the bush in total silence, it would also ensure (unnnecessarily) that our 4 Majingilane Royals would be completely unaware of your presence. As a final thought it would vindicate our General Manager’s tireless efforts to demonstrate that this technology can actually work and cheer him up immensely for the first time since the last one burnt to the ground on Walpurgis night last year…

The last thing we want to do is put any pressure on you on the run up to the big day, but we all urge you to go with your heart in these matters and give us a try for the honeymoon.

Either way we wish you both the very best of luck, not just for the ceremony but the beautiful years of marriage ahead of you both. You can be sure that those not on gamedrive will certainly be watching every moment on the big TV at the recently renovated and re-opened Spaza Café.

Yours Truly,

Tom Imrie

Easter in the bush is a dangerous time for bunnies. Lion and leopard are frequently on the prowl making it difficult for these noble little mammals to go about their duties and deliver this year’s plethora of Lindt Chocolate Easter Bunnies.

Bunny Cool with the First Delivery of Lindt Bunnies

Fortunately we have an extremely committed, dashing and brave Operations Manager in Duncan Maclarty. Duncs not only ensures that all of the Londolozi Lodges run smoothly from day to day but is also willing to help out a bunny or two in getting their eggs through the gauntlet of predators to Londolozi this Easter.

Although Brave and Strong, still a little weak on directions...

Although Duncan is well over 6 foot, when he dons his snow white bunny suit, long ears and fluffy tail he transforms into what can only be described as ‘Bunny Cool”. A Rabbit so cool that he makes leopard cubs look menacing and Lilac Breasted Rollers look plain. He is quite simply put, the bunny that all other Lepurs aspire to.

Despite the long hours, Bunny Cool's work is never done

We hope that all of our friends around the world have a wonderful Easter 2011 and get the opportunity to rest, relax and eat lots of chocolate easter eggs.

Love from the Londolozi Family