Variety is the spice of life, so they say, and nowhere on Londolozi will you find a greater variety of habitats than in the area north of the Sand River known as Marthly.
Few roads traverse this wild area and sightings of unknown leopards are not infrequent. Aardvark tracks and the fresh diggings of the animals are regularly found (although I am still waiting for my first sighting of this frustratingly elusive creature), servals regularly rear their heads from the long grass that they like to hunt in, and the North is generally a place in which we expect the unexpected.
A ranger’s photography excursion to the Ximpalapala Crest. With the confused expressions seen here, it’s a wonder that the rangers capture any decent photos!
The magic of the bush is to be found in the little things just as much as in the big, and the North is full of these small wonders.. One of the most amazing spots I have ever seen, Freddy Ngobeni casually pointed out this flap-necked chameleon concealed deep in a red bushwillow.
The Manyelethi River defines the North for me. A beautiful dry riverbed that winds its way through the property from north-west to south-east, twisting and turning like a snake, it’s boulder fields and wide open sands have been the scene of innumerable memorable sightings for myself and the rest of the team. The Manyelethi received a facelift during the 2012 floods, with many of the thickets and wild date palms that filled the riverbed being swept away. As a result, it is now a far more accessible and crossable riverbed in many areas.
Elephants dig for water between its banks, the Tsalala pride frequents the cool shade offered by the riparian vegetation, and Verraux’s eagle owls are often to be seen in the tall ebony trees along it’s fringes.
The north-eastern area of Londolozi, with it’s rolling hills and bushwillow thickets, is a high risk/high reward type of place. You don’t always find what you are looking for, but you know that if you DO find something, it will most likely be an animal not often encountered, and you will most likely be alone with it. Here, the Campbell Koppies young female leopard, an elusive female from the north east, surveys her territory from a slanting knobthorn tree.
A misty sunrise over Sasekile Ingwe clearing, visible across the river from the Londolozi camps. A herd of wildebeest welcomes the dawn, thankful to have survived another night!
The Tutlwa female is synonymous with the North. She stalked these impala for over an hour, but was spotted by a large ram, and as soon as he sounded the alarm, the element of surprise was gone and she moved off to continue the hunt elsewhere.
The line of Koppies (rocky outcrops) stretching from west to east through the Sabi Sands features prominently in the North, and Ximpalapala, Southern Cross and Marthly Pools koppies are all part of the same geological feature, formed over hundreds of thousands of years as the surrounding granite crests eroded away slightly faster than them. Leopards and lions both den frequently amongst the rocks and in the cracks, while klipspringers, hardy little antelope exclusively found on rocky hillsides, are often seen perched high above.
The views from the Ximpalapala crest are among my favourite anywhere on Londolozi. One can see all the way eastwards towards the distant Kruger National Park. This White Rhino’s poor eyesight unfortunately precluded him from enjoying the scenery, and he was more interested in the lush grass after the recent rains.
Whenever I cross the Sand River to the North, I never fail to get that excited sense of anticipation; that ‘night-before-christmas’ feeling, like something special is about to happen. And it often does.
Finfoot Crossing. Named after an elusive bird species seen occasionally in the Sand River, this crossing point is generally only usable in the winter time when the Sand River is not flowing as strongly.
The Majingilane coalition are often to be found in the North. A buffalo had been killed by the Tsalala Pride on the edge of the Sand River, but the coalition of males were too late on the scene to share the spoils.
I always tell my guests that if we happen to not see anything while out on game drive, the North is the place to do it, as simply driving or walking through this diverse and fascinating area is the truest kind of immersion you can get. I will often switch off the vehicle and tell everyone to just listen. Whether it’s the distant roar of a lion in the evening that we can hear, the iconic cry of an African fish eagle high overhead, or simply the silence that surrounds us, it is all magical.
In The North, the Tsalala Pride reign supreme. Here, all 8 of the cubs from the two 2011 litters stand guard on a termite mound, waiting for the return of their mothers.
A crash of seven white rhino near a waterhole in the North known as Nanga Pan.
Every once in awhile, the North reveals some of its most closely guarded secrets. Only a few days old, three tiny and still-blind leopard cubs belonging to the Tutlwa female hide in their densite- a boulder field along the banks of the Manyelethi River.
If you come to Londolozi, insist that you cross to the North on at least one drive.
Once you have been there, you’ll understand…
Written and photographed by James Tyrrell
Oh wow. So awesome. I can’t wait—Just over a month till I return! I am so excited to see those lion and leopard cubs.
” Freddy Ngobeni casually pointed out this flap-necked chameleon concealed deep in a red bushwillow.” Yea, Freddy…..eyes of an eagle!
The North – Home of the Tsalala Pride! nice one James T
Thank you for the wonderful photos and description of the “North.” The photo of Campbell Koppies Young Daughter was awesome. I think her territory extends into your neighbors (Arathusa, maybe MalaMala) and nobody has many photos of her.
The photos of Tutlwa’s new cubs are even better, but now I have questions. Why was Tutlwa mating with the Marthly male a few days ago when she has 3 new cubs to look after? What happened to the Nyelethi female? I know her daughter is still around.
Someday I hope to visit Londolozi and I will definitely ask to see the North! This blog sets a very high standard. Thanks,
Brian
Hi Brian,
Thank you for your comments.
Sadly the litter of the Tutlwa female was lost soon after this photograph was taken. The photo was taken on Jan 5th, and on around the 18th, both the Sand River and Manyelethi Rivers came down in flood. Tutlwa was seen soon after the flooding, but there were no signs that youngsters had been suckling from her, so we had to assume the cubs had been lost, wither drowned in the floods or to another predator.
The Nyelethi female died in early 2011, we believe killed by another leopard north of our boundary, but yes, her daughter is still around. Under pressure from the Tutlwa and Ximpalapala females, both unrelated and older, she has moved her territory further north, but is still being encountered on Londolozi
James
Aah. The North and Marthly always get a joyful yes at the very suggestion. Our best game drives ever!! Great photos and write up James.
Gotta love the north!
When was Tutlwa’s cubs shot taken?
Hi Holley,
It was taken on the 5th of Jan and was unfortunately not seen after the floods this year!
Kate
James,
Beautiful images. Loved seeing two of our group’s vehicles with ours crossing the river. It was so exciting! Any chance we could get a hi-rez image for our archives of the trip?
We look forward to seeing you again this coming summer!
Hi Michael,
We look forward to having you back!
I have a few shots of this river crossing that you are of course welcome to have. Would you like me to mail them to you or can I give them to you when you get here.
James
what a THRILL to see our group (Sarasota Florida USA) “egging on” our companion vehicle to cross (July 2011) !!! ahhh, the sweet, very sweet, memories remain strong and vivid thank you for the continued reminder of all the beauty that is Londolozi
I love reading the blogs sometimes for the stories – but the photos are always amazing. I know those Freddy spots, and they are always extraordinary! As always, thank you James.
James, thanks for the pics of the Tsalala 8 – saw them on my first game drive August 2011. So sad they are all gone except one I think.
Nice one James. The North…..my favourite place on Londoz.
This is a lovely blog James. I understand exactly what you wrote about. It is my favourite area as well. You feel the isolation there and it is magical. We were forrunate to climb Ximpalalala many years ago.