A few weeks ago, a guiding dream came true for me. Every guide has something out there they’re dying to see, and I had always wanted to discover a leopard cub at a den. The Dudley Riverbank Female, interestingly one of the only Londolozi leopards I had never seen, obliged.
It was a very quiet morning, one of those rare times when you don’t even see impala, the birds aren’t singing, and of course the radio is silent. We decided to check a road less traveled in the south of Londolozi, based on a single, long-distance bushbuck alarm call breaking the calm. We never found the bushbuck, but we did find a set of leopard tracks. ‘Dudley Riverbank Female,’ Freddy noted. ‘Not fresh.’ Regardless we decided to follow the tracks, as they were the only chance of us finding something that morning. She walked along the one road for miles, and each time Freddy relocated the track on the hard ground, he seemed surprised when he said, ‘Still on the road. More fresh now…’
The tracks eventually took us to a water hole and then headed off into a deep drainage line called the Tugwaan. The bush became very thick but there was a small track heading straight into a beautiful rocky section of the drainage, shady, pristine and tranquil. Freddy whispered to me, in Shangaan, ‘This is where she has had cubs before.’ To say I went paralytic with excitement is an understatement. We followed the tracks in the sand straight to a set of rocks with a small crevice in the middle. Freddy hopped off the tracker seat to have a closer look, but there was no need. The Dudley Riverbank Female was lying next to the crevice, and seeing Fred on foot startled her slightly. ‘Oh,’ Fred said quietly, smiling. ‘No one move. Just stay still.’ He slowly walked around and climbed on the vehicle.
I was too excited to explain to the patient guests why we were whispering and peering into the dark hole next to the leopard, but thankfully the level-headed Freddy chimed in: ‘The way she is behaving, she does have a baby, yes.’ We waited quietly as the mother relaxed. Then, she looked towards the dark hole of the crevice and the cub slowly appeared! It cautiously moved towards us, looking, as it nuzzled up to its mother while being groomed. That intimate moment is one I will remember my whole life.
In the weeks that followed, I would learn a lot about the maternal behaviour of leopards. If it were up to me, I would have gone to the den every game drive! But obviously our guests also want to see other things, and I quickly realized that the discovery of a den site does not mean guaranteed cub viewing… at all. In order to not pressurize the tiny cub and its mother, we set up some viewing ‘rules’ for the den site, which is called ‘Paul’s Crossing’ in honour of a former ranger. One vehicle would be allowed to head towards the site per game drive. No viewing after dark. If the mother’s tracks are coming out of the Crossing, you must leave the area. This was all to minimize the chances of unwanted visitors being attracted to the area, such as hyenas, as well as to habituate the cub to the vehicles through slow exposure. Of course the prospect of seeing a leopard cub is a source for huge excitement, so we decided not to advertise it on the blog – it is simply not fair to the cub.
Before every game drive I ask Freddy, ‘Where are we going today?’ After finding the cub, my question was always, ‘Where are we going today… Paul’s Crossing?’ with high hopes. But each time, he would shake his head and say, ‘Not today’. My heart sank, knowing that going against Freddy’s opinion would not only prove him right when we didn’t find the cub but also induce some kind of bad bush karma from a ranger/tracker team not working together. Sure enough, other rangers with equally high hopes would subsequently report over the radio that the den site showed no sign of the leopards.
‘We need to understand something,’ Fred said after about the twentieth time I begged to go back to the site. ‘A leopard den site is unique. They are not like wild dogs, they are not like hyenas, and they are not like lions. To go first thing in the morning is a waste of somebody’s time. That is the mother’s time for work – she will be out hunting. Maybe she will go back in the late morning. Maybe in the afternoon. But then she will leave well before dark to hunt again.’
It made perfect sense. Lions, hyenas, and wild dogs are all social creatures who have the group to help look after their little ones, as well as help in hunting. Leopards need to spend longer hours hunting to secure a kill, and keep their young even more concealed in remote places. These are some of the reasons why it is so rare to see leopard cubs. When Fred glanced over his shoulder one afternoon and softly said, ‘Why don’t we try Paul’s Crossing?’ I just about broke the radio microphone while grabbing it to claim our intention to be the vehicle that would follow up that afternoon.
We did not have any tracks coming out of the den site, so we went in to check. She was not at the opening of the rocks as she had been previously. We waited, the adrenaline wearing off as our hopes faded. After about fifteen minutes I decided to call it. As I turned the ignition, Freddy whispered, ‘Wait. Right there. She’s up there,’ and pointed to the tall grass on the hill above the rocks. I still don’t know how he saw her. Us mere mortals with ‘normal’ vision had to wait until she actually moved out of the grass to see her. And the cub followed!
We watched for about forty-five minutes while the cub played on the rocks, occasionally looking at us curiously but for the most part very relaxed with our presence. We listened to the soft sounds of the mother contact calling when the cub strayed too far. As the light dimmed, the mother groomed herself, and looked at us, as if to say ‘OK, it’s time for me to go hunt now. Please leave.’ So we left her alone to put the cub back in the den.
The third time we tried our luck at the den site was once again successful, thanks to Freddy’s intuition. She was not on the rocks nor in the grass, but this time Freddy suggested we try taking a different route out of the drainage, driving on the northeastern side. There she was, the female, lying out in the open, enjoying the afternoon light. With a few minutes of silent patience, the cub slowly appeared from behind a thicket. We watched for about an hour as the little one played and nursed, climbing all over its mother.
Then another learning experience. Monkeys arrived on the scene. They started alarming loudly upon seeing the leopards, which sent the cub tumbling back down towards the den. The mother was not happy. She stood hissing up at the monkeys in the trees. Usually, when a leopard is spotted by monkeys, it will eventually move out of the area and the monkeys will quieten down. But she hadn’t finished nursing her cub, and the cub was still too young to be moved from the den site. She had no choice but to stay.
The cub eventually came back out despite the loud intruders. She finished nursing and the mother once again gave us the ‘You’ve had enough time’ look. We left and watched the sun set from a crest nearby, wondering if the Dudley Riverbank Female would be successful on her hunt that evening.
The following morning, another vehicle reported that the monkeys were still lurking around the area of the den, but they did not see the cub. The Dudley Riverbank Female was seen around the den site a few times after that, but it seems the cub has now been moved.
This left us to wonder: did the monkeys cause the female to move the cub? And did our presence attract the monkeys in the first place? This is why we have to be so careful when viewing wildlife, particularly vulnerable youngsters like this cub. Luckily there have been many tracks of the cub seen in other areas since then, so we know it’s still alive…
Written and Photographed by: Talley Smith
I am glad the cub is still alive. the cub is beautiful and very cute. Thank you for the wonderful pictures.
This is unbelievable- and the photographs just too amazing Tal!
What a great story and images to go with it.
Thank you.
Wow, very cool blog post! I’m just bummed that I never heard anything about this in my 6 nights there last week!
Sorry Rae that we kept it pretty quiet. To be honest the cub has only been seen around five times in total and not once in the last two weeks. I know even the rangers are still dying to see it. We did not post this or spread this news out of sensitivity to the cub and so as to not dampen peoples moods. It is indeed an incredibly special moment and Talley has been truly blessed to see it three times. I trust you had a great time when you were here – Adam
Talley, I am so delighted for you. I remember you saying to me a year ago at Londolozi that this was your dream….. And the pictures are incredible – thank you
Happy news!!! Lovely cub and mum!!!
It is such an honor and an extreme privilege to be the first human a tiny little leopard cub sees, isn’t it? Lovely story and photographs – well done Talley and Freddy and all the best to the Dudley Riverbank Female in her golden years, and her gorgeous little (female?) cub.
Tal- I don’t think you could have said “Us mere mortals with ‘normal’ vision had to wait until she actually moved out of the grass to see her.” any better.. I was there 3 weeks ago today.. can you tell I miss it greatly.. and we had the pleasure of having Tom and Jerry as our Guide/Tracker pairing.. The things that Jerry saw and heard was truly amazing.. truly superhuman.. that is what makes the pairings at Londolozi so darn special. Thank you for the story and the wonderful pictures.. I am dreaming of the day when I can come back to heaven..
Tim
What a TREASURE!! Those pictures capture such maternal tenderness!! Absolutely FABULOUS Talley!! Best wishes to the new Mum and her adorable cub and THANK YOU for sharing
MERCI BEAUCOUP TALLEY.. THESE PICTURES ARE SO GOOD AND I AM SO HAPPY TO KNOW A NEW LEOPARD CUB IS BORNED IN LONDOLZI…SOOOO CUTE….
ANOTHER DIRECT MISSING PART OF LONDOLOZI LIFE …
I THINK…I AM SURE,I WILL COME BACK IN OCTOBER …
BEST REGARDS ALSO TO ADAM FOR THE CHEETAH REPORT….SO INCREDIBLE…
ENJOY LIFE AT LONDOLOZI… YOU HAVE THE BEST JOB IN THE WORLD
sweet pics of this. I so respect your views also on the sighting and vehicles comin in.It is special to see this and vey special to know the respect and awe you have of this precious new life. Im so glad you got your special moment with a new life.
Talley, thanks SO much. We were hoping to see this cub a month ago with Alfie and Bennet and waited a while while the mum was hunting. We weren’t worried at the time, but so hoped to see a photo of what we had “missed”. I hoped someone would be able to show me the picture of the baby cub. So thank you, this just completes the picture and wonderful, unforgettable experience we had at Londolozi.
Talley…Just TOO wonderful. Freddie is a treasure and this find reminded me of when he tracked Shayne and his brother and sisters. He is truly amazing. Two first sightings…amazing.
And I love reading about his sensitively to the situation. Of course, GREAT photos!
Looking forward to our discoveries on our next visit and updates on this new cutie.
Merle, it also reminded me of that day 🙂 I really wish you guys could have been there with us!
A question. I Googled as to how many cubs are in a normal leopard litter….answer 2-3. Were you surprised to find only one?
Merle 2-3 cubs is a pretty standard litter size in younger leopards, but older females generally cannot cope with the strain imposed on their bodies by birthing and raising 2 or 3 cubs, so 1 becomes the norm. The extra energy demands of raising more are simply too much.
The Dudley Riverbank female is approximately 14 years old, and given that it takes roughly 18 months to 2 years to raise a cub to independence, and female leopards cannot usually expect to live much beyond 17 (which is the age of our oldest territorial leopard at the moment, Dudley Riverbank’s sister; the Nottens Female), we can most likely assume that should she raise it successfully, this will be her last cub.
Knowing Dudley Riverbank’s age, we were pretty sure that if we did manage to find the den, one cub was all we could expect to find.
Thanks for your knowledge and expertise James, very interesting to learn that the litter sizes decrease owing to a female’s age. I look forward to tracking this cub with you and also getting my first glimpse!!
Thank you so much for this post and the photos to go with it.. I find leopards to be amazing creatures, and love hearing about them..
I am grateful to you all for sharing your wildlife experiences with us..
Still haven’t seen this little critter, despite numerous attempts to find the new densite and a 7 hour track the other day.
Supremely jealous Tal, must have been an amazing moment!
Wonderful post Talley and some truly stunning pictures of this beautiful little cub!! I hope to be able to film it in the near future. rich
So pleased for you Talley and Freddy, you deserve the first viewing, you have treated us to so many
beautiful images from Londolozi and these certainly shine as bright as the little star they introduce us to.
What a team!
So thrilled to see you talking about the cub we discovered with you all those weeks ago. How did you keep quiet for so long!!
It looks so much bigger and less vunerable, but just as stunning and endearing. We look forward to hearing more about it’s progress.
Good to see Freddie is just as amazing as usual – he has a sixth sense!
Thalia & Angela
Oh thank you so much for sharing your emotions as well as your sightings. Beautifully told. And … take care of Fred!!!
Claire-M. from Québec, Canada
Thank you for the Great pictures! It is so Sweet !!
“Freddie is a treasure and this find reminded me of when he tracked Shayne and his brother and sisters. He is truly amazing. Two first sightings…amazing.
And I love reading about his sensitively to the situation.”
I am absolutely not surprised that Freddy found mom and cub. He amazed me with his ability to track and spot when I was there in Nov. of 2010. Looking forward to seeing him again in December of 2012. The photos are beautiful.
Judy we can’t wait to see you all!
Talley, thank you for sharing your story and photos. I feel like I was in the truck with both you and Freddy! I can imagine the whole experience! You two are the best.
Hugs to all, Jenifer
Thanks so much everyone for all the comments. We will keep you updated as to if and when we find them again. We know the general area where they are, and we checked yesterday afternoon but unfortunately there were too many elephants in the area to look properly on foot! The suspense continues!
Amazing! Insanely Jealous! Obviously an early birthday present! Shame Tal you must let some of the other rangers try find some cubs for once..
Hi Adam,
Please don’t tell me the video of the cub that was just posted was taken on the day we left you guys or today for that matter. If it was, I may have to change my plans for the rest of my trip and fly back out to Londolozi tomorrow – lol! FYI, I heard the Sparta orphans are being well taken care of by their aunt. Apparently, she was feeding with them on the hippo and was also quite affectionate with them.
Wonderful pictures…the little cub is beautiful.
This is so beautifully written and accompanied by the most stunning photos. Talley, your “baby” is adorable!!
HI TALLEY, THANKS FOR THE STORY AND FOR THE MAGNIFICENT PICTURES! I CANNOT WAIT TO GET BACK TO LONDOLOZI WITH THE HOPES OF SEEING THIS BEAUTIFUL CUB!
KIND REGARDS,
TED.
Hey Tal
Epic. I know the feeling and it is very hard to get the words to describe it.Great story.